Sale on Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines, 1992 - 2006!

[Iceman]

Thanks for the suggestion.

[MTGTS]

Originally Posted by Iceman

Did you guys have any trouble bolting the brackets on? It seems that the holes are 1 mm too small.

Also, does anyone have any pictures on how they routed the brake lines.

Thanks.

I called Sean today as I am installing these along with my Stoptech BBK and ran into the same problem. You need to drill out the smaller holes to 5/16. He said he had just written up the instructions and he can email them to you if you need. Not sure if there are pics. He emailed them to me but I can't access my email right now.

[Iceman]

I did finish the install. Also, I talked to Sean and suggested some modifications to make it fit on a 2002 better.

I had to manufacture the brackets for the front to make it fit nice. Also I think the rear lines are two inches too long.

Other than that, he does have quality parts. The fitment is a little debatable.

[ViperTony]

I haven't started my install yet but I have a lot of questions for Sean. I'll try to get a hold of the instructions. I was going to do a how-to writeup on this since I think its an excellent upgrade and hopefully make it easier for others do the installation. I'll give Sean a call and see if he has any instructions available.

[MTGTS]

Instructions I got:

General information:

- There are brake line mounting brackets supplied for 1992-2002 Vipers only. They are universal for front and rear, left and right.

- The banjo fitting bolts at the calipers should be torqued to 23 ft /lbs.

- You will need to fully bleed the brakes after installation of the lines, then test for leaks by holding brake pressure and checking for seepage at sealing points. Use factory specified fluid.



Here’s a tip to keep brake fluid from leaking out and completely draining the master cylinder. You can use a piece of wood between the seat and brake pedal to hold the pedal down at least at least ¾”. This will close off the ports that allow the fluid to enter the master cylinder from the reservoir. Holding down like this is the best way to do the work at the lines as it will not allow the fluid to continually leak out (which makes a mess) and totally fill the system with air (which makes it take longer to bleed). However, holding down will activate the brake light switch. You can disconnect the battery, disconnect the switch at the pedal or use something to hold the switch rod in (such as a piece of wood between the switch and pedal) to keep the light from draining the battery.



Installation (non year specific):

After you have removed an original brake line, you should check the orientation of the adapter fitting to the mounting bracket and determine which side it will be mounted on (may be different between front and rear). Once determined, secure the fitting to the bracket using the lock clip in the orientation shown in the picture. To aid in the installation of the lock, we use a hammer and make the first half of the clip a little flatter so that it starts a bit easier. You will need a hammer to put the lock clip in place on the fitting. Make sure you have the orientation correct before you install the clip.



Bolt the brake line bracket and fitting to the frame.
Secure the hard brake line from the frame to the new brake fitting and tighten.
Connect the flexible brake hose to the fitting, but do not tighten.
Connect the banjo fitting at the other end of the hose to the brake caliper using the original banjo bolt and new crush washers.
Determine the routing of the flexible hose so that it will not get pinched or worn by moving parts (such as the suspension springs, wheel rim, etc). The lines need to be allowed movement for the suspension to travel up, down and turn accordingly. We have supplied both heavy duty and light duty tie wraps along with adel clamps. Fasten accordingly.
Tighten the banjo bolt at the caliper.
Tighten the flexible brake line ends to the fittings.
Once all new lines are installed, bleed all brakes.
Here are a few tips on proper brake bleeding. You can use a small hose connected to the top of the bleeder screw with the other end of the hose running into a small container. This will keep mess to a minimum. You should bleed the inboard fittings first (as applicable), then the outers. To get a full pedal stroke, open a front and rear bleeder at the same time (during the same pedal stroke). Snug the bleeders closed before the pedal is lifted.

Clean excess brake fluid from the fittings using brake cleaner. Test for leaks and reconnect the battery or brake light switch if disconnected.

[ViperTony]

I'm in the process of installing Sean's SS lines to my GenII. I have a couple of questions:

Question #1: The brackets supplied with the kit seem to be shorter in length than the OEM brackets. In order to get the hard brake line to match up with the bracket I'd have to bend it up. Does this make any sense? Take a look at the bracket below, this is the passenger side rear. The hard line is dangling below the new bracket:



Question #2: The brakes lines aren't labeled front or rear. Are the shorter lines for the rear and the longer lines for the fronts?

Question #3: SS Line routing. Assuming the short lines are for the rears, the pic above shows the line looping up and over to the caliper. Problem is the line rubs the frame and I assume this is bad. The pic below shows the line cross under but seems close to the exhaust pipe. What's the proper way to route this line?


I wanted to route it and secure it to the parking brake line as shown in this stop tech photo but this will only work with the longer lines:


Question #4: Tie wraps and Adel clamps. What am I supposed to do with the tie wraps (I got 4 fat tie wraps and 4 adel clamps in the kit)? Where did you mount/secure these?

If you can post some pics of your completed work I'd appreciate it. I'm trying to write this all up as I go long and I'll be sure to include your comments/pics.

Thanks,
- Tony

[MTGTS]

#1. Flip your bracket around. Drill out the other hole and that will be the top hole. Flat part of the bracket will b facing back.

#2. My lines had the end fittings on them. The lines with the 90's on them go on the back. Straight fittings go on the front.

#3 I zipped my lins to the upper a-arms on all 4 corners. You can adjust the 90 fittings to where it will not face down and you can out it straight out or even a little up.

#4 As previously stated I used the zips ties and tied to the upper a arms. I did not use the other clamps. If Sean has an idea on where to use them I'd also like to know.

[ViperTony]

Originally Posted by MTGTS

#1. Flip your bracket around. Drill out the other whole and that will be the top hole. Flat part of the bracket will b facing back.

#2. My lines had the end fittings on them. The lines with the 90's on them go on the back. Straight fittings go on the front.

#3 I zipped my lins to the upper a-arms on all 4 corners. You can adjust the 90 fittings to where it will not face down and you can out it straight out or even a little up.

#4 As previously stated I used the zips ties and tied to the upper a arms. I did not use the other clamps. If Sean has an idea on where to use them I'd also like to know.

Great, thanks for the info. - Tony

[Dave's Big Brakes]

Hey Tony,

Give me a call to solve your problem , I have 2 different ways to fix

Big Brake Dave
858-382-4713 cell