Brake rotors/Brake pads

[Russ M]

Ok all your brake modification gurus I need some help. Time to change out my factory pads, and probably the rotors as well since they seem to be on metal to metal contact.

Originaly I was going to purchase some factory rotors and some after market pads. But now I am considering a nice factory replacement like the Stoptech aero rotors or the Dilusi motor sports 2 piece rotors.

Anyone have experience with either of these or comperable products that they would like to share?

I am NOT interested in the big brake kits, not yet at least and am looking for an improvement in braking more so than the looks.

Thanks

[RT/ED]

For pads, go with the EBC greens for street use. I noticed no difference in stopping power and almost zero dust.

[Russ M]

RT/ED

I have tried EBC's on another car and was very disapointed in stopping power compared to other pads. And I have read similar things about Vipers with them.

Dust is easy to wash off, I can live with it.

[Bob Woodhouse]

Stock brake rotors are cheap, easy to change, and compared to what you are thinking of using, not that much different. I would save my money and put it all down on a big brake kit later. If you want some improvement. Here's in order of what to do first and so on. If pre-2000, lose the brake bias valve, see previous articles on this board. Second, add some air deflectors or front brake ducts, both if you got some time and money. Then good pads, Brake Man # 3 is good bang for the buck. Good pedal feel, takes lots of heat, easy on rotors. Plenty of dust tho. Fresh fluid, if running good lap times you may want to add a brake fluid recirculation system. My two cents. Good luck, oh, put the same brand pads on both ends, always.

[Russ M]

Great thanks for the advice..

The factory rotors are cheaper than the Aerolite stoptechs? They are only $159.00 each and 3pounds lighter than the factory.

What do you think?

Thanks again.

[Warren S]

Russ,

I would first ask what type of driving you plan to do. Will the car just see street use, occassional or frequent track time? Then ask Matt Weiss at StopTech for some advice (310) 325-4799. He can fill you in on the upgrades available.

A lot of the technical aspects previously discussed...
StopTech discussion post
Big Brake Kit discussion post

I would say the main reason to go with the StopTech Aero-Rotor is because their angled rotor vanes (like turbine blades) will help cool the brakes better than the stockers. Cooler brakes = less chance of fade and longer life on the brake components. But hey, I'm no brake guru. Call Matt.

Difference of rotor weights I've taken:
Stock = 22.3 lbs.

StopTech Aero-Rotor = 18.1 lbs.

[MannyC]

How long would it take a non-mechanically inclined guy to swap out front rotors himself? Are there any dangers to doing it yourself if you are going to a road course event, or is it a pretty straight forward in and out job? I have never changed brakes on a car before.

[Shelby3]

Absolute piece of cake. Will take a half hour if you're slow. Go for it.

[scottgf]

The easiest brake job I have ever done is on my Viper.....Like he said...Piece of cake......dont be scared :-)
Cheers,

[Frank Parise]

Russ M.....Listen to that wily 'ole Woodhouse. He knows what he says and says what he knows. I think you barking up the wrong tree if you are looking for any noticeable performance gain. If your rotors and pads are as bad as you say they may be, I would also assume your brake fluid looks black like used motor oil rather than a clear honey color. It's baked baby. You will probably notice a remarkable improvement by flushing/bleeding your brake fluid (use the very inexpensive but extremely effective Motul fluid) and putting on a brand new set of inexpensive factory rotors and brake pads. The only time you would prefer a race pad is when you are road racing on a track. All other times you will prefer the stock street pad for performance. Don't complicate your life!

Superbar.....I want to hire Shelby3 to be my crew chief. If you are truly a novice, it will take you much longer than 30 minutes, especially if you do not have the proper tools. In fact, it will probably take you 30 minutes or longer to safely get the car up on jack stands and remove the wheels. This assumes you already own jack stands. Then, you have to figure out which caliper mounting bolts to remove and which size wrenches to use. Then you have to buy a torque wrench, but you also need a service manual to retorque the bolts to their proper specs...etc etc. It can turn into a lengthy process. The 2nd time around will probably take an hour. It's not difficult the first time, just time consuming. Very important to retorque everything properly.

[Warren S]

How long would it take a non-mechanically inclined guy to swap out front rotors himself? Are there any dangers to doing it yourself if you are going to a road course event, or is it a pretty straight forward in and out job? I have never changed brakes on a car before.

Manny,

To be honest, your inquiry scares me. I agree with Frank that it takes the proper tools, torque specs, and mechanical experience to do the proper brake job. I would further say that even something as seemingly easy as changing pads, rotors and bleeding the fluid can have serious consequences if not done correctly. Dangers? Yes, a lot of potential dangers. Keep in mind that brakes are a major safety component. No offense, but if someones not mechanically inclined and has never changed brakes before then I would have to say no to doing it themself. Leave it to a brake expert to do the brakes, or at least have one be there alongside every step of the process. Alright, I'm finished with my disclaimer.

[SoCal Rebell]

RT/ED

I have tried EBC's on another car and was very disapointed in stopping power compared to other pads. And I have read similar things about Vipers with them.

Dust is easy to wash off, I can live with it.

Russ I know the way you drive and you are right EBCs suck, listen to Bob W. and get the Brake Man 3s they are a great non-abs pad and work great on both the track and the street, I used the Stoptech rotors and they also worked great and lasted a long time, at the very least get the Porsche air deflectors.

[Russ M]

Frank Parise,

Gotcha and the fluid is perfect I change it every 2 years it has Motul in it now.

Socal,

Thanks the answer I was looking for .

[jcaspar1]

" Then, you have to figure out which caliper mounting bolts to remove and which size wrenches to use. Then you have to buy a torque wrench, but you also need a service manual to retorque the bolts to their proper specs...etc etc. It can turn into a lengthy process."

I am pretty sure that the rotors can be removed without removing the calipers. No torqueing (other than the lug nuts) to be done. The Viper is the easiest front brake job you can find. No bolts to remove (except lug nuts), no wheel bearing to re-pack, just a couple of pins to remove.

Superbar- Frank is right that getting the car on jack stands it the hardest part. After that 30 minutes tops. Let me know if you are planning on it and I can walk you through it. Even installing a front Stoptech setup was pretty easy.

P.S. I think going to stainless steel brake lines is a great, cheap way to improve braking feel.

[Hoosier Daddy]

I am pretty sure that the rotors can be removed without removing the calipers. No torqueing (other than the lug nuts) to be done. The Viper is the easiest front brake job you can find. No bolts to remove (except lug nuts), no wheel bearing to re-pack, just a couple of pins to remove.

Thats a big negative on most of your advice. The calipers do need to be removed for the front rotors, not the rears. So the caliper bolts will need to be retorqued and good luck on that with the amount of clearance and interference of other components. This is not that simple for a first timer, there are many combinations of tools to use which will make the job done easiest. One stubby 19mm 6 pt socket and torque wrench won't be that easy.