clutch pedal sloppy??????????

[SNKEBIT]

Is there a bushing or something that takes the slop out of the clutch pedal????
Mine most of the time hits the clutch mounting bracket and won't go all the way to the floor. Any fixes????
TIA,
Mitch

[MannyG]

My 95 has the same problem. It's like it has a small stop 3/4 of the way down. It will eventually continue to the floor.

MannyG

[vettekiller]

how hard is your clutch to push? mine did the same in my 94 and when I replaced my clutch. the through out bearing was bad (rusted) and after I put it all back together it was good and the clucth was easy to push again.

[SNKEBIT]

The clutch works fine, it just has a little slop in the "pivot" which lets it move too far to the left when you push it to the floor. It then comes in contact with the clutch and brake bracket about an inch or so from the floor. I think there's a bushing or something on the pivot rod that should be replaced but not sure....

[malcoll]

Yes there is a plastic bushing you need to replace. I had EXACTLY the same symptoms. The bushing can be ordered from Dodge.. the cost was like $3.00 if I recall correctly. I ordered a bushing, but before it arrived I located an aluminum bushing of the correct size and made that work.

If I could locate the Zoombrowser disc for my digital camera I would upload pictures.

[SNKEBIT]

Thanks, I'll order one up Tues.!!!!!!!!!!

[joe117]

The pedal pivot can also wear. When it wears, you might have to push the pedal further to get the clutch disengaged. A small amount of wear in the pivot can cause a larger amount of slop in the pedal end.

I replaced the whole pedal assembly in my 94. I'm sure it could be rebuilt instead.

[ab]

Part of the reason for the "sloppy" pedal is due to the flimsey retainer clip that holds on the clutch to the pedal assembly. The clutch pedal has some movement side to side which will wear out the bushings quicker...what I found to be a cure is to have the end of the bar that holds the clutch assembly on threaded so you can put a nut on the end of it and have it hold the pedal assembly snug so that way there is no room for side to side play. Just don't over thread it where it will put too much pressure up against the clutch arm..because if you do, it will not allow the pedal to move back and forth freely.

Hope it helps.

[prodiver]

I like that idea. I have replaced that dam bushing 3 times in a year and a half and am just about to do it again. Going to try something different this time.

[ab]

it will work and the only pain the asss is the back breaking bending over and not being scared of being in tight quarters

[forrest@viperspeed.com]

HIGH SNABIT..

MY NAME IS MARK AT BOBBY ARCHER MTR SPORTS IN FT WORTH TEXAS AND I HAVE MANY PARTS ON HAND AND TALKED TO BOBY ABOUT THIS THIS MORNING AND HAVE A PEDDLE ASSEMBLY IN MY HAND AND ARE GOING TO LOOK AT MAKING A SLOP FREE SYSTEM IN OUR MACHINE SHOP.THESE CARS ARE GETTING OLDEER IN TURN THEY ARE STARTING TO GET PARTS WEREING ON THEM THAT ARE A PART OF USED VIPERS.CALL ME IN A COUPLE DAYS AND SEE WERE IM AT WITH THIS UNIT..
THANKS FROM MARK AT ARCHER MOTOR SPORTS FT WORTH TX.

[prodiver]

That busing has to be the least expensive part on a Viper but considering the labor involved, my size (6'1") and the fact that I have replaced the damn thing 3 times in a year and a half it has gotten to be a pretty expensive part. I am going to try threading it this time. I did find that it is much easier to do with the front seat removed and make sure you cover the door sills with something so you don't scratch them.

[SNKEBIT]

Mark, i'll call ya next mon. or tues.