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RT/10 and GTS Discussions (1992-2002) For technical and general questions and discussions related to the GEN I/II RT/10, GTS, and ACR Vipers (1992-2002).
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Old 11-27-2005, 12:17 PM   #1
Dimitrios

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Default Innovate Motorsports LM 1 A/F Meter.

Does anyone use the innovate motorspors A/F meter? How accurate is something like this? from what i have read it pretty much tells you the A/F ratio from road testing and logs all data. from there you can go into the VEC2 software and adjust from there. im still having loads of problems with detonation and like to get it fixed before it costs me another several grand.

http://innovatemotorsports.com/products/lm1.php
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Old 11-27-2005, 12:42 PM   #2
Schulmann

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Default Re: Innovate Motorsports LM 1 A/F Meter.

Have a look rather on the LC-1 unit. Each costs $199. Plug one LC-1 on each side of the engin and then connect the logging wires to the VEC2. You will have a very accurate idea on what is going on within the combustion chamber. As an option you can install an XD-1 gauge.
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Old 11-27-2005, 01:35 PM   #3
Bill B

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Default Re: Innovate Motorsports LM 1 A/F Meter.

I don't have this one, but I've used one and it seemed to be spot on.
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Old 11-28-2005, 09:28 PM   #4
Jack B

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Default Re: Innovate Motorsports LM 1 A/F Meter.

Like Schulman says, you cannot go wrong with the Innovate unit. A difference of opinion though, I would suggest the LM1 (log/memory), XD1 (gauge) and the LM3 (expansion box for logging). the VEC is OK for logging, the LM3 was built for logging.

Once the three units are installed you can log any time by merely pressing a button on the XD1. The LM1 holds about 25 minutes of logging time. The LM3 also has a built-in g-meter, so that you can plot acceleration, hp or torque along with five additional inputs.

My car is set up to log the following:

1. A/F from Innovate LM1.
2. Acceleration from LM3. (hp and torque are calculated from this channel)
3. IAT from directly from oem sensor.
4. Throttle position from PCM.
5. Fuel pressure from autometer fuel pressure gauge.
6. RPM from PCM

All sensor inputs (0-5V) terminate in the LM3, from there a serial cable connects both the gauge (XD1) and the computer (LM1). Both the XD1 and LM3 are programable thru a serial port on the LM1. What is nice is the ability to press a button (on the gauge) and log when ever you want. You can log on the drag strip or high speed road track without a worry about connecting and mounting a laptop.

On the negative side, anything with this much capability does not just drop in the car and give you data, there is an investment in both install time and start-up time. On the other hand why have a 50,000 - $75,000 investment and not spend $750 (material) to give you the data to keep it running.
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Old 11-28-2005, 09:47 PM   #5
Dimitrios

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Default Re: Innovate Motorsports LM 1 A/F Meter.

where do i hook the LM 1 to? the oxygen sensors on the exhaust or do i just clip it at the tail pipe?
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Old 11-29-2005, 07:21 AM   #6
BlueGTS

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Default Re: Innovate Motorsports LM 1 A/F Meter.

D, I installed one in my car a few months back. You need to add an O2 bung in your header collector and just screw the new O2 sensor in. The LC1 comes with a bung and nut. If you need one send me a PM, I have a friend that can drop ship it too you for cheaper than you can buy it.
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Old 11-29-2005, 07:35 AM   #7
v10kingsnake

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Default Re: Innovate Motorsports LM 1 A/F Meter.

care to pm me on this deal too my good friend? thanks.
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Old 11-30-2005, 11:15 PM   #8
Jack B

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Default Re: Innovate Motorsports LM 1 A/F Meter.

If you have ceramic coated headers you may not want to put it in the collector. On the Balengers there is a short transition pipe that attaches to to the exhaust pipe as it comes out of the sill. That pipe is easy to remove. It also allows the bung to be mounted in the top side of the pipe. This is also near the oem rear sensor. You don't want the bung in the bottom of the pipe, water will ruin the sensor.
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Old 12-01-2005, 08:20 AM   #9
BlueGTS

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Default Re: Innovate Motorsports LM 1 A/F Meter.

Jack that is a good point as well, the bung should be between 10 o'clock and 2'oclock to stop condensation from pooling.
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