Where to buy SS small head header bolts

[Kevin ACR]

Need to replace my Belanger header bolts that are rusting with stainless hardware.

Can someone give me a part number(or specifics) and source?

I see the one's that Summit has but no size is called out and I don't want to mail order the wrong hardware.

thanks

[GTSnake]

Kevin,

I've been in your situation. Summit can get the SS header bolts for you but it has to be custom ordered. They are not cheap. A set will cost over $80. I ended up buying mine from DC performance for the same price. I figured I'd buy it from a Viper vendor to keep it in the family so to speak. Here is the link.

http://www.dcperformanceinc.com/Nav....ageID%3d397354

[C-Note]

SS in aluminum with heat? I wouldnt use stainless you will have problems later.
Just my .02

[Jack B]

I looked for the stainless and could not find them. I ended up using Stage 8. They are plated and have a locking mechanism. You will like them and they look good.

[Kevin ACR]

Why would stainless hardware be a problem?

[Fred(DrivingSchool)Kinder]

Metals of different composition with react chemically due to varying electrical potential. This is what causes the GEN one side sills to corrode around the fasteners.

This link is an introduction to dissimilar metals reaction. http://www.corrosion-doctors.org/Def...nic-series.htm

Materials Science is a very important engineering tool.

[GTSnake]

So a stainless bolt in an aluminum head doesn't work? What could happen? The aluminum head will rust?

I believe the headers are jet hot coated stainless. The only non compatible metal in this equation are the heads.

[Camfab]

My experience has been as follows.

Contrary to most beliefs, Stainless steel header bolts will get loose and back out more likely than high quality steel bolts. The reason for this is two fold, I always use a high quality high temp. anti-sieze paste. Stainless bolts expand more than high quality steel bolts. A high quality anti-sieze paste will actually slow the process of galvanic corrosion. If you dont use anti-sieze you risk galling the threads. ARP makes the bolts you need, they are available at great prices through any of the common speed shops- Summit,Jegs or DC Performance.

Fred that was a great write up.

[Jack B]

Fred:

Let me offer a second opinion - a material will react or transfer based upon its relative position in the Periodic Table of Elements. In this case the base material is Fe (steel), it shouldn't matter at all whether it is a basic steel fastner or stainless, they both reside in the same position in the Periodic Table. There may be another compatability issue, but, it shouldn't be galvanic action.

A little example - I have a hydraulic platform on a boat and has a huge surface area of aluminum and stainless under the water. The platform structure is also fastened together with stainless bolts and there is no sign of any galvanic action between the two. This is an extreme example since many boats and/or electric fixtures in or near the water will have reversed polarity (you can't keep away from it), my point is, if aluminum and stainless reacted due to galvanic action it would happen here for sure, but it doesn't.

[1MEANSNAKE]

Anyone have a size for these ARP bolts so I can order a new set ???

[RAYSIR]

I use stainless in aluminum heads all the time on my street rod projects BUT I always coat the threads with antiseize. 10 years never any problems. Check out Sanderson header web page for info,

[Viperless]

Great source I've used many times for stainless, polished stainless, and chrome fasteners. They even have bolts with Chrylser, Mopar, and Dodge Ram logos engraved on the heads.

http://www.gardner-westcott.com/

[1MEANSNAKE]

Originally Posted by Viperless

Great source I've used many times for stainless, polished stainless, and chrome fasteners. They even have bolts with Chrylser, Mopar, and Dodge Ram logos engraved on the heads.

http://www.gardner-westcott.com/

Are these it?

Part # Description 56332-SS BIG BLOCK MOPAR ENGIN 56332-SSP BIG BLK MOPARK KIT SS POL A/S 56332-Z BIG BLOCK MOPAR ENGINE ZINC

[2000_Black_RT10]

Originally Posted by RAYSIR

I use stainless in aluminum heads all the time on my street rod projects BUT I always coat the threads with antiseize. 10 years never any problems. Check out Sanderson header web page for info,

I agree with RAYSIR, also used stainless in heads or intakes, but the key is using antiseize to prevent galling. Don't ever install stainless and aluminum together without it, that bit of galvanic corrosion will lock the threads and you'll end up snapping the bolt trying to remove it. I even use antiseize it's a stainless bolts with stainless nuts, reminds me of a time I used stainless bolts and nuts on a brush bar on my truck, tried to remove them once, several galled up, cold welded, nothing more fun than trying to remove 5/8" bolts, ended up having to put a breaker bar on them and just snap them..

[2000 RT10]

Stainless steel bolts are regularly used in outboard motors which are primarily made from aluminum castings. When operated in salt water the opportunity for corrosion is many times greater than what we see on the road. The use of an antiseize is a good idea as it will lubricate the fastener and does not easily wash out. The Stainless steel used in corrosion resistant fasteners does not typically have as high a yield strength as carbon steel. A 300 series stainless steel has a yield strength of 100,000 psi which is equivalent to a grade 5 steel bolt. A grade 8 alloy steel fastener has a yield around 150,000 psi. Very high quality bolts have yields in the 180,000 psi range.

Most, if not all, steel fasteners are plated with cadmium, which gives them the silver/gold appearance or are treated with an oxide giving them the black color. These plating materials act to prevent corrosion but also act as a lubricant with installing or removing the bolt. Stainless bolts have no coating and are therefore more prone to galling. You never want to use stainless on stainless without an antiseize.

I would have no problem recommending stainless in any application into aluminum or for that matter steel, where fastening requirements could be met with a grade 5 bolt. I would be careful when using them on exhaust manifolds due to the heat and resulting expansion of the header flange. As the flange heats up and expands and could likely stretch the bolt, resulting in loss of torque and clamping loads. An alloy steel fastener would be better suited for this application.