Did I solve my no-start problem?

[cyaford]

About 2 months ago, I get in the Viper to go to a car show. It turned over, but wouldn't start. I tried several times, and finally got it to start as long as I was in the throttle. As soon as I took my foot off the gas, the car would die. Instead of posting, I did a quick search. From reading numerous posts, it sounded like my car had entered theft mode. I unplugged the battery for 15 minutes, and after reconnecting the battery, the car fired right up. Last week, it did the same thing. This time, the car would not start after dc'ing the battery for 15 minutes, or even 2 hours. It would still start after applying throttle, but would die out when getting off the throttle. I left the battery off for 2 days, and then it started with no problem. I do yet more research and think it may be the battery. Based on other members posts here, I buy a Duralast Gold 78-DLG, 1000ca, 800cca. I go to pull the old battery(can't recall the name), and notice it's rating is 875ca, 700cca. The old battery looked horrible. No cracks, bulges, or leaks, but looked very old. I bought this car last August, and have had no problems starting it since then. Could a lower rated battery cause this condition, or maybe it was on it's last leg?

[1TONY1]

The battery is the culprit in a lot of Viper problems. If yours is over 2-3 years old it's not a bad idea to change it when weird problems start.

[Ulysses]

More than likely it was on it's last leg

[cyaford]

Thanks guys! I started to go with the Optima, but read several posts about them dying out after 7-10 months. Granted, they are replaced under warranty. I work 14hr shifts. If I'm awake after getting home in a few hours, then I'll continue with the install. When I got home yesterday, I had just enough energy to pull the old battery, install the new one, and bolt in the battery "stopper". The car is still on jack stands with no juice. I wonder what Autozone would say if I pulled up and took them up on their free battery install. LOL