Air intake help...

[dave6666]

Originally Posted by ViperTony

Well, I'm thinking that if the Vipair is supposed to allow more cool air to the intake than the Vec3 can log the Air Intake Temperature sensor readings and verify if that claim is true or not. I'd imagine with your roe fascia duct, you're pushing a lot more cool air through there than I am and will probably see a difference.

At the end of the day...its fun. Removing that rain baffle made me feel complete. I love it.

Yeah... Dave at Big Brakes is the master of giving that class, but he says the tie-in of the Vipair and the Roe duct is a must. In other words, the Vipair is a no show without opening up the fascia to allow more air in.

[RTTTTed]

HHI Viper, if you're thinking about Forced Induction later, buying final parts for 'plan' saves money. Buying the parts for your finished product instead of 'intermediate parts' will save you money in the long run.

Ted

[banton]

Originally Posted by RTTTTed

HHI Viper, if you're thinking about Forced Induction later, buying final parts for 'plan' saves money. Buying the parts for your finished product instead of 'intermediate parts' will save you money in the long run.

Ted

I agree with that 100%

[DAMN YANKEE]

I agree to what RTTTTed says, plan it with somebody that really knows.
HHI Viper, your doing all the right things by asking, dont mind us as we rattle on.
There is ALOT of info you can find out there. You need to spend more time contacting the great tuners and builders that frequent and support the VCA, these guys will save you from making any big mistakes. Remeber....there is a tipping point where a HEavy modded Viper becomes a pain, dont go there. Go light, go simple, go smart, go fast.


The first thing you should do is buy the Roe Racing post engine turn off kit that runs the fan when the engine is off but still hot. Best thing for the money you will buy.

Big throttle bodies, perhaps but not yet, maybe never...you need a plan.

Your on your way.

[HHI VIPER]

Originally Posted by RTTTTed

HHI Viper, if you're thinking about Forced Induction later, buying final parts for 'plan' saves money. Buying the parts for your finished product instead of 'intermediate parts' will save you money in the long run.

Ted

I may go that route later as I am a supercharger and turbo fan. Had a BMW S/C and a twin turbo 3rd gen RX7 and do like the extra HP. Thinking that in mind, what might I start out with at this point to get things rolling that way? I seriously want to keep dependability and motor stock inside. Bolt on's can "bolt off" later if I wanted to return to stock. What should I do from the start and what order do people seem to follow? I am not in position financially with the economy the way it is and my partners and I are planning an expansion with equipment for work when the economy breaks loose (HOPEFULLY...), but like we are "all" saying...have a plan. I definetly will listen to the folks on the VCA for pointers in the right direction! You know this vehicle...I do not! I believe I would like to take steps to "arrive" at forced air and could really care less about repeating anything or shputzing around just for the sake of a little more horsepower for now. I am happy to wait and do it right and "FRUGAL" as possible!!!! Would like to eventually end up with a dependable 150-200 horse or so at the wheels. That would suit me just fine for playing!

[HHI VIPER]

Originally Posted by DAMN YANKEE

I agree to what RTTTTed says, plan it with somebody that really knows.
HHI Viper, your doing all the right things by asking, dont mind us as we rattle on.
There is ALOT of info you can find out there. You need to spend more time contacting the great tuners and builders that frequent and support the VCA, these guys will save you from making any big mistakes. Remeber....there is a tipping point where a HEavy modded Viper becomes a pain, dont go there. Go light, go simple, go smart, go fast.


The first thing you should do is buy the Roe Racing post engine turn off kit that runs the fan when the engine is off but still hot. Best thing for the money you will buy.

Big throttle bodies, perhaps but not yet, maybe never...you need a plan.

Your on your way.

The "rattling on" is fine as everybody has different views but the few that have answered this thread think on about the same lines as myself and I do appreciate it! I agree with heavy mods!!! I am not going to race per say, I just want to have a little fun and modding the engine to extremes I am not interested at all in. I have been wanting this car for 10 years and the last thing I want to do is have dependability and drivability issues. Plus my wife says... She knows me too well!!! Yes, the engine timer (probably like a turbo timer) would be a good idea...Thanks!

[FE 065]

Originally Posted by DAMN YANKEE

You've got all the air you need with your mods and a stock engine. Spend elsewhere.
FE 065 - Think so, ok, I'm game....lets here what your thoughts are.

My own testing over the years has convinced me that there's more to be had than what the OE airbox yields. But it can be dependent on what exhaust you're running too.

Switching airboxes at the strip for example, one airbox with the rain block/one without saw a .10 gain when using the airbox with the rain block removed. Testing an OE airbox on a major corporation's giant flowbench saw the passenger side flowing more air than the driver's side due to the left side outlet being obstructed more by the rain block than the right.

Stuff like that, most of which I've posted about previously.

I've been busy finishing up an experimental airbox mod..and a short test drive tells me this new mod idea actually works! (..no one's ever posted about doing it) I think I'm going to have to start calling this airbox Frankenbox - it's been reworked so much and has so many varied fasteners holding everything together. I was hoping to take advantage of the GB on the SCT programmers to compliment the mod, but I was unable to get enough info to go through with it.

The driving season's still young - could be an interesting Summer !

[DAMN YANKEE]

Sounds interesting...I look forward to test results.
But...for a stock engine with his mods.....spend elsewhere.

[HHI VIPER]

Originally Posted by FE 065

My own testing over the years has convinced me that there's more to be had than what the OE airbox yields. But it can be dependent on what exhaust you're running too.

Switching airboxes at the strip for example, one airbox with the rain block/one without saw a .10 gain when using the airbox with the rain block removed. Testing an OE airbox on a major corporation's giant flowbench saw the passenger side flowing more air than the driver's side due to the left side outlet being obstructed more by the rain block than the right.

Stuff like that, most of which I've posted about previously.

I've been busy finishing up an experimental airbox mod..and a short test drive tells me this new mod idea actually works! (..no one's ever posted about doing it) I think I'm going to have to start calling this airbox Frankenbox - it's been reworked so much and has so many varied fasteners holding everything together. I was hoping to take advantage of the GB on the SCT programmers to compliment the mod, but I was unable to get enough info to go through with it.

The driving season's still young - could be an interesting Summer !

Interesting...Keep us posted!!!

[Walker]

It's interesting that in some vehicles there is an improvement with an aftermarket CAI and others there is not and even a loss. SRT 10 Ram dynos showed power losses on almost all aftermarket CAI's with the only improvement being with a drop in K& N. They still sell a lot of CAI's to the truck guys.

[dave6666]

Originally Posted by Walker

It's interesting that in some vehicles there is an improvement with an aftermarket CAI and others there is not and even a loss. SRT 10 Ram dynos showed power losses on almost all aftermarket CAI's with the only improvement being with a drop in K& N. They still sell a lot of CAI's to the truck guys.

Was the SRT's dyno in a wind tunnel, where dynamic improvements perform? Or was the Ram static sitting still, where dynamic improvements don't perform?

Maybe the people that buy all these parts actually understand this concept. Well, at least some of them must be smarter than the TV commercials themselves.

They are designed to work at 60 mph wind speed, not 0 mph. Most dyno's are 0 mph wind speed.

[FE 065]

Originally Posted by DAMN YANKEE

Sounds interesting...I look forward to test results.
But...for a stock engine with his mods.....spend elsewhere.

My engine is stock btw, including stock exhaust manifolds, rear muffler - and the 2.25 inch plumbing leading to it from the back of the sills. I've intentionally avoided the usual bolt-ons route to pursue my own ideas.

This is on my yellow ACR now..but it's due to get reconfigured.

[DJ'sviper]

I have a Gen I and bought some air filters and smooth tubes. The guy said he runs 147 in the 1/4 and I said he didn't get that with smooth tubes. He laughed and said the set up would get me 17 HP. So the question is will the filters do me any good? Sounds like the smooth tubes will give me 5 HP.

[RTTTTed]

If I was kind of broke I'd cut the airdamn out of the airbox in the car and instal K&Ns when I needed a new air filter. I'd buy a diesel pickup tailpipe and a muffler, then build my own exhuast, toss the cats and use a side exit to save a couple thou. I'd save all my money and buy a good used Roe blower system and instal that ($5,000). I'd get the most 'bang for the buck spending what a complete exhaust would cost. 150-200rwhp with the potential to upgrade a pulley and add a water/meth sytem for another hundred or so hp. A new set of wheels would cost more than that. Money could dictate stereo, big brakes, wheels, speakers, headers, tailpipes, etc. after that - but what I did was spend an extra $5,000 when I bought my car with nearly everything I wanted already on it. The 'little things' I've done since buying it have already cost me nearly $10,000 extra and a ton of work (I'm a do it yourselfer). Nearly finished now.

Ted