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| RT/10 and GTS Discussions (1992-2002) For technical and general questions and discussions related to the GEN I/II RT/10, GTS, and ACR Vipers (1992-2002). Sponsored by: Doug Levin Motorsports |
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#16 |
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Leaning towards a low mileage car is certainly understandable and not something I am saying is wrong. My only suggestion is try to put less emphasis on the resale issue (probably easier said than done) and more attention to what you want to do with the car. As another post suggested, if you are going to put a lot of miles on it, don't pay the extra for a low mileage car up front. I knew when I bought mine it was going to be a daily driver, which it is. I commute 130 miles each day and have not regretted one minute of it.
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I am a man of simple tastes, easily satisfied with the best. |
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#17 |
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Cars as investments are not a good way to go - they lose money. When you buy a car you should buy one that you want and that's being used for what you want to use it for. Racing, cruising, posing, garage queen, etc.
If it's stock you're after then more miles means less value. Modififications and upgrades increase the value of an older car as new, bigger breaks, new clutch, new tires, are also considered "rebuilds". If you instal lightweight bigger breaks on the car at 30K, like I did the brakes now are NEW, not 30,000mi. old. If you upgrade the engine with forged pistons and camshaft the new bearings, rings, etc, mean tbe engine is also lower miles than the car and slightly increase the value. A buyer that wants smaller brakes, cast pistons, hot exhuast sills, etc. will say upgrades lower the value of the car. To him, they do, but to someone like me that wants a nice sounding, cool sill, big power, better handling car all my upgrades are equivalent in value to a much lower mileage car and most of us will buy the car for the way it drives and looks, not whatever the speedo says (they can be changed). When I wrote off my 98 GTS, the insurance adjuster said that I'd upped the mileage 50% (19,000 - 29,000mi) and I'd devaued the car. I showed him the magazine feature article and my recent 1st place car show trophy and we adjusted the 'real' value up $9,000, not down. They increased the 'stock value' by $6,000 for the upgrades (sc, wheels, exhaust, etc.) and added another $1,000 for the upgraded electronics. The "book" value they started from was $45,000. Get your monies worth, buy YOUR 'perfect car'. Ted
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Roe Supercharged 01 Sapphire GTS, M2 built 720rwhp. rest-mod 440 Duster 4sale, '92 IROC R/T 4sale, 71 340 Demon project 4sale. |
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#18 | |
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Quote:
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Drive hard...Drive safe! Take Viagra and wear a condom! 2001 RT/10 Sapphire Blue
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#19 |
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Guess depends on what YOU mean...LOL!~~~~juli
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Black '05 SRT vert w/mods Red '08 Paddle-Shifting Vette
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#20 |
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Go buy a Viper you like and can afford. And in 3 or 4 years, if you need to sell, you can ask then what it's worth.
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'98 Silver Heffner Twin Turbo GTS |
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#21 |
I bought a medium priced car, with medium miles to drive once in a while. When I sell (if I sell )I would expect a medium price in return based on the other mediums at that time! I guess my point is...I bought a car at a fair price and I will drive it a fair amount and I will get a fair price (or market price) for it when I decide to sell. Thats all I can expect!!! I bought mine to drive and invest in some fun. There is always a price to pay any way you go Make sense? Wheres my 10th cup of coffee???![]()
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Drive hard...Drive safe! Take Viagra and wear a condom! 2001 RT/10 Sapphire Blue
Last edited by HHI VIPER; 05-17-2008 at 08:20 AM. |
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