car dead, need help

[ViperJay]

well, the car ran wonderfully yesterday as i went up to the wine tasting and bbq for the new england gathering. no problems what so ever. this morning, i hopped in to run an errand and the car is dead. its electrical. completely flat. no door chime, no map light, not even the lights on the radio. im thinking its not the battery as i had no indications of a dying battery yesterday. i wanted to check main fuses but as i am a moron, i cant even find the fuse box. it is hooked up to a tender right now (i know i should be using a charger) but still get absolutely nothing. this happened early this year when i was repainting the dash, but i figured i accidentally left the interior lights on somehow. hooked it up to the tender for an hour and it turned right over. nothing this time.

put on your brain hats and let me know what you think. what are the most simple things i can check first. i know im going to have to go after the battery but im not looking forward to taking off the tires and panel in the rear.

thanks
jay

[PatentLaw]

ViperJay

I think you have already diagnosed the problem, sorry to say. Get ready for the lugnuts.

Patentlaw

[ViperJay]

noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!

[dave6666]

BATTERY!

I've had them go from perfect to trash in just one start. After of course a few years of use prior to that.

[ViperTony]

I accidentally left the map lights on under the rear view mirror and drained the battery over the course of a couple of days. Sometimes my sausage fingers turn them on by accident as I'm adjusting the mirror. Its possible that if this is the case the battery could've been drained. I'd ditch the trickle charger and at least try to remove the battery and charge it. When was the last time the battery was swapped out?

[Viper Wizard]

Originally Posted by dave6666

BATTERY!

I've had them go from perfect to trash in just one start. After of course a few years of use prior to that.

I concur with Dave! I have also seen them go just like a light bulb!!

[STUGOTS]

Originally Posted by Viper Wizard

I concur with Dave! I have also seen them go just like a light bulb!!

like mine did LOL

[ViperJay]

well, with all this different advice i guess ill replace the battery first........ . thanks for all the replys. as i no longer live next to "mr. toolguy", im off to the store to buy a jack, break down bar, tire wedge, jack stands, battery, etc etc........

[NukedGTS]

Originally Posted by ViperJay

well, with all this different advice i guess ill replace the battery first........ . thanks for all the replys. as i no longer live next to "mr. toolguy", im off to the store to buy a jack, break down bar, tire wedge, jack stands, battery, etc etc........

I want pictures of every step in the process!!!

[dave6666]

Originally Posted by ViperJay

well, with all this different advice i guess ill replace the battery first........ . thanks for all the replys. as i no longer live next to "mr. toolguy", im off to the store to buy a jack, break down bar, tire wedge, jack stands, battery, etc etc........

Soooooooooo, which Harbor Freight do you shop at?

[ViperJay]

what the hell is a harbor freight? mike, i will take pics, lol.

[dave6666]

Originally Posted by ViperJay

what the hell is a harbor freight? mike, i will take pics, lol.

Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

[ViperJay]

thanks dave, i will check that out.

mike, i found this on the boards:




EASY to do with the right stuff:

Here are a couple of minor suggestions to help speed the battery change along...from one of my old posts:

"
It's not a bad job...goes well if you plan ahead and have tools ready.

Use a 3/4" (or 19mm) socket to remove left rear wheel. Then use 8mm, 11mm, and 10mm sockets to remove fasteners on splash shield in rear of fender well, and a pair of needle nose pliers to pull the plastic push pin that holds the battery cover to the splash guard...now disconnect the battery using 5/16" socket, and use a 1/2" socket to remove battery clamp.

Inspect the tray carefully...you will likely see corrosion...if so, neutralize it CAREFULLY by scrubbing with water and baking soda. DO NOT USE COMPRESSED AIR to clean this out !!!
After the area dries, I usually use a wire brush on an electric drill (wearing goggles and a respirator/face mask) to remove all remaining oxidation caused by the acid and/or rust. I wipe the tray WELL with rags, then allow it to dry. Then, after a couple more wipe-downs with ethyl alcohol to remore moisture, debris, and oils... I coat the tray bottom and sides with Rustoleum primer 2-3 times...and when dry, hit it with a couple of coats of Rustoleum black "engine gloss" even a semi-gloss. I have found that a used pizza box slid right under the battery tray makes a great "paint booth". After this is completely dry, install new battery (I PREFER a 75 series as they ALWAYS fit our various Vipers...and I always use a Sears Die-Hard Gold...noting that the LEAST amout of usage that these batteries have given me is 6.75 years). Then put it back together.

Note: SOME 94's will not start after battery disconnect...so you might wish to try it before installing the covers. If you have troubie...call me...or do a "search".

I do use a 9 volt battery plugged into the cigarette lighter...which maintains the clock and radio settings for a reasonable time.

HAVE FUN...and don't drop your Viper on yourself !!!"