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| RT/10 and GTS Discussions (1992-2002) For technical and general questions and discussions related to the GEN I/II RT/10, GTS, and ACR Vipers (1992-2002). Sponsored by: Doug Levin Motorsports |
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#1 |
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After the problems with my motor I want to be sure I have a killer PCV setup. I have been trying to find a way to have plenty of venting but not have giant hoses running all over the engine bay for breathing.
I don't do much racing; maybe occasional drag runs and a road course a couple times a year. As you can see in my sig, I have a Roe and some other mods. So I just wanted to see what some of you have done. Please post pics and/or describe in detail how your system is setup. ![]() thanks, Tim
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97GTS B&W: Roe S/C 5#, VEC3, Borla headers, catless exhaust, smooth tubes, T&D rockers, 3.55 gears, RPS flywheel & 6-puck clutch, short-shift kit, untuned coming soon: N2O
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#2 |
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I capped the PCV connection on the manifold, tee fitted my valve cover hoses together and ran them to a catch can.
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'06 SRT-10 Coupe "Never Say Whoa at a Horse Race"
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#3 |
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Same as above.... Catch can on the alloy cross member...
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Baz VCA SAVED TATORS DODGE!!!!!!!!!!!!! |
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#4 |
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Has anyone experimented with going from the catch can to the exhaust using a setup like this?
Mr. Gasket 6002 - Mr. Gasket Crankcase Evacuation Systems - summitracing.com Yes it's a v8 in the picture... I've used this same setup on my turbo mustangs with great success. ![]()
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1992 Mustang Notch - Turbo drag car 1997 Viper GTS - Weekend Cruiser 2004 F-150 XLT - Vortech'd daily beater |
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#5 |
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Great writeup from Damn Yankee on the PBJ unit here:
Installing a Crankcase Breather System “Puke Tank” – Photos and Guide Dave's Big Brakes engine breather system (my favorite) here: Engine &Transmission
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WE SAVED TATOR'S DODGE ![]() |
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#6 |
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Was kind of in a hurry, but it works good.
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#7 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Best use of lone star I have ever seen.
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'06 SRT-10 Coupe "Never Say Whoa at a Horse Race"
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#8 | |
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Quote:
Not sure how much vacuum the factory setup pulls, but it does pull some. 12" seems to be the sweet spot without pulling to much oil mist from the wrist pins.
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1992 Mustang Notch - Turbo drag car 1997 Viper GTS - Weekend Cruiser 2004 F-150 XLT - Vortech'd daily beater |
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#9 |
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I'm pretty sure that the initial purpose of crankcase breathers/PCV's, etc., was for emissions purposes, thus the need for vacuum. Initially, the fumes/oil mist was just vented to atmosphere or dumped on the ground, then as emissions controls came in, the excess oil fumes were re-routed and burned.
Obviously, for blown and other applications, the purpose isn't emissions-related, but to avoid oil pooling in the intake or burning of oil blowby, as well as relieving the increased pressure in the crankcase (particularly in the case of FI). Most will tell you that if you're not pushing out the dipstick, then you shouldn't be worrying about too much pressure. Many just go back to the old days and use valve cover breathers, as well as simply routing hoses to the ground (more environmentally friendly to use a catch can, but not necessary), ditching the PCV since it's now useless.
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'98 Viper RT/10 JMB intake, B&M, hi-flow cats, Borla, SCT tune, 18/19 IForged/PS2's '96 Caprice 9C1 '08 Hummer H3 |
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#10 |
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Thanks for the input guys
![]() I'm kinda thinking like FATHERFORD A vaccuum in the system would be nice. However, I agree with chimazo that a vac. is not necessary and that it was just added for emissions purposes. My main concern is just getting as much pressure out of the crankcase as possible. I want to be sure that I don't have to worry about the blowby not having anywhere to go. So here's what I'm thinking for an "over-kill" system that will evacuate all pressure in the crankcase. I'll use the same setup as DamnYankee, with the exception of the breather. I will run a hose to the airbox from the catchcan to create a vac. in the can to help evacuate all pressure. I don't think DY's setup is flawed, I just want the extra vac. there for piece of mind. For backup I'll add a traditional breather to the top of each valve cover - something small but adequate.
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97GTS B&W: Roe S/C 5#, VEC3, Borla headers, catless exhaust, smooth tubes, T&D rockers, 3.55 gears, RPS flywheel & 6-puck clutch, short-shift kit, untuned coming soon: N2O
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#11 |
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If you could actually evacuate all the positive pressure from the crankcase the "effective" compression ratio would be higher without the problems caused by detonation allowing more advanced timing. A vacuum in the crankcase would actually suck the pistons down and create hp - not likely in real life. There's too much 'blowby' past the rings to get a vacuum in real life. Breather's are OK for relieving excessive pressure, but not recommended. The PCV works well and would help remove a little of the crankcase pressure.
My car has a vacuum pump mounted beside the radiator. The valve cover breather hole has been enlarged for a bigger than stock fitting and 5/8" ID braided hose to the vacuum pump. The vacuum pump uses another 5/8" braided hose to the 'puke tank' mounted beside the rad on the driver's side near the bottom. The puke tanks drain **** is attainable from under the car and easy to drain. This daiphram vacuum pump sucks so much air that when it's on air can be heard rushing into the oil dipstick tube when the dipstick's pulled out. This is the best system I've seen, looks good and I expect that it adds probably about 5+hp. I'd include a pic, but all that's visible is the fitting and hose leaving the valve cover and it disappears down beside the cover. Fatherford's illustrated system is a Racing system and uses a corvette (or similar type) 3/4" PCV welded into the header collectors at an angle creating a vacuum at the tube opening. The Pollution Control Valve is to protect the engine by closing off in case of a backfire which could blow out all your gaskets if the flame gets to the oil fumes in the crakcase. Usually 1 badkfire and the PCV blows out however. This system is OK on a race car where Blue smoke out the exhaust is OK, but in a street application it has a tendency to suck oil droplets out of the engine and cause the smoke at the tailpipes. Definitely will not pass any emissions test. Also may get you pulled for a pollution test when blue smoke seen coming from your tailpipe, in some areas. Ted
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Roe Supercharged 01 Sapphire GTS, M2 built 720rwhp. rest-mod 440 Duster 4sale, '92 IROC R/T 4sale, 71 340 Demon project 4sale. |
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#12 |
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These are the types we use.
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Dan Lesser, Owner www.ViperSpecialty.com (716) 912-5336 WNY Tech / VCA Activities |
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#13 |
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Gateway VCA Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 452
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I used two JMB performance (PBJ) breathers attched to the cross member.
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#14 | |
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Quote:
That setup I shown is used on many mustang TT setups. I haven't heard of any issues of not passing emmissions. Then again with TT mustangs usually a little oil drop here and there is the least of their problems when it comes for inspection time. I know I personally have never seen any blue smoke come out of my tail pipes with this setup. So weather emmissions would be a problem ![]() Also, when I was doing a little part time out at the machine shop in my teenage years, when putting 10-12" of vacuum on some healthy v8 engines we noticed upwards of 15-25hp at the flywheel on the engine dyno. This was using a vacuum pump. Using the method I had in the drawing on boosted mustangs Pushrod/mod motors both, I have seen 21". Which you need to put a valve in to "bleed" off the vacuum and limit it to 12".
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1992 Mustang Notch - Turbo drag car 1997 Viper GTS - Weekend Cruiser 2004 F-150 XLT - Vortech'd daily beater |
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#15 |
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96 Blue/White GTS 96 Blue/White Indy Ram Ride Fast Or Be Last |
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