Aghh!!! Clutch Problem... HELP

[RobZilla]

So recently I replaced my tranny, clutch and all components etc. After about 800 miles, there goes the clutch. So I thought it was a simple bleed issue. Tried that a couple times, no work. Switched to the old Master Cylinder, same problem. Even tore out the tranny again and went with another Slave Cylinder, still no work.

The big problem to begin with was changing gears and going into gears from the start. By the time we started working on it, I was locked out of all gears with the car running, but not when off (shifts smooth).

After all that changing and work, Now the cluch hydraulic line must be all gone cause starting the car in a gear and she wants to drive off. I'm clueless now and could use some real good advice fast.

PLEASE HELP.

[dave6666]

Sorry. Beer run needed.

BRB.

[dave6666]

What did you NOT change? Clutch hydraulic line?

You went with a Gen 3 tranny right?

[dave6666]

Question... The pedal is not going to the floor, right? Normal pedal feel, just no disengagement of the clutch?

[mjorgensen]

Are you sure the clutch is properly attached to the flywheel? No broken mounts?

The clutch lines routed away from any heat source? sheilded from heat?

[RobZilla]

All the lines were run the same way they came off. Yes I went to a GEN III trans. The clutch pedal will go to the floor but it feels very weak and now there is no disengagement of the clutch where before there was. After all the changes were done, everything ran spectacular for 800 or 900 miles then this problem just crept up.

I recently added a the Roe Fan Kit, but nothing was even near the clutch or components.

[dave6666]

Gotta ask an insulting question... You used the correct hydraulic fluid for the clutch slave right?

And no signs of fluid loss?

[RobZilla]

What fluid would be best? I have heard numerous different opinions and read such right here on the forum???

[RobZilla]

When I took the slave off it appeared that one of the nossels that lead of the main body was loose. There appeared to be initial fluid loss in the area where it mounts. This was my thought for the problem to begin with. Since it has been changed the problem appears to be worse with no signs of fluid loss this time.

[dave6666]

DOT 4 is the fluid on the cap. DOT 3 from the service manual. I use DOT 4 Prestone. DOT 6 or 5 or whatever the silicone stuff is will go through seals.

Based on your last reply, sounds like an air in the hydraulics problem maybe.

[RobZilla]

We have been using DOT 3 and DOT 4. If there is air in the line, I agree that is the mostly likely problem here. It would seem that the more we bleed the line the worse it gets... What is the proper way to bleed so no air can leak in, or what is the cause for the addition of air?

[dave6666]

When I bled my GTS after the slave install, I used my Mityvac and vacuum bled. Sucked the fluid through using vacuum at the slave bleed port.

The pressure method which I would use if I had a helper, is push pedal, open bleed port to displace fluid and air, close bleed port, release pedal. Repeat.

Obviously important stuff:

- Reservoir must never be allowed to empty. That's how air gets in.

- Any other leak points allow air in every time you release the pedal. Like the port on the slave you said was loose.

[RobZilla]

Alright, Im about to head to the garage and get at this for day two.

Ill have a second person so you adivse to open the bleed port at the slave with the clutch pedal fully depressed.

Will the fluid flow openly through the lines if done this way...

We have been pumping the clutch to build pressure and then releasing the bleed port. Once the fluid is done leaking, close the bleed port and pump the pedal.... repeat repeat repeat till my legs falls off...

[dave6666]

There is an important concept to bleeding - never have the bleed port open unless there is pressure on the system. And with manual 2 person pressure bleeding, that pressure comes from someone pushing the pedal down.

Things that can cause you problems here:

- The master cylinder is not primed, or worse yet, defective.

- You have so much air in the system that pushing the pedal creates no resistance. But it should let compressed air out when you open the bleed port. And then drop the fluid level in the reservoir slowly.

Remember... Do not release the pedal until the bleed port has been closed. Communication is key.

And don't let the reservoir go empty. Keep an eye on it.

[Bandit3]

Rob, these are all good suggestions. If it's not too much trouble--remove the master cylinder and bench bleed it first. This will make the bleeding of the line and slave faster. This can be done by placing the master in a vise--holding on to the bolt lug only--not the body. Using a punch or screwdiver, push the piston in all the way, hold it and then put your finger over the line port. Release the screwdriver and repeat until fluid has a steady stream--probably in just a few strokes. This will also tell if the master is defective. Install the master and use a friend to help you bleed the rest of the system. Keep an eye on the fluid in the master--never let it go low, and remember to open the bleeder on the slave only when there in pressure (friends foot on the pedal all the way to the floor). Close slave bleeder and have friend release pressure. Good luck, this is not that big of a problem.