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| RT/10 and GTS Discussions (1992-2002) For technical and general questions and discussions related to the GEN I/II RT/10, GTS, and ACR Vipers (1992-2002). Sponsored by: Doug Levin Motorsports |
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#1 |
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I am installing a Innovative XD-16 air fuel gauge and want to install a boost gauge also. It's mostly for the bling effect in a pillar pod since I have 2 spots to fill. My question - is it worth like $100 more the get an electrical gauge over a mechanical gauge and running a vacuum line into the cockpit.
Thanks
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99 ACR Silver/Steel Grey Stripes- Roe SC 8lb, Roe Heads, W/M, Bellanger, Random Tech, Iforged Wheels. |
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#2 |
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I've always used mech. boost gauges on my turbo cars. They work just fine and there is almost no benefit with the elec. ones.
More so, if you are just using it for cosmetic purposes, there is no need for the elec. type.
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97GTS B&W: Roe S/C 5#, VEC3, Borla headers, catless exhaust, smooth tubes, T&D rockers, 3.55 gears, RPS flywheel & 6-puck clutch, short-shift kit, untuned coming soon: N2O
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#3 |
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The only reason I ever ran an electric boost gauge (as opposed to a mechanical) was that I wanted a recall/memory function. Other than that, I can't think of any compelling reason.
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'98 Viper RT/10 JMB intake, B&M, hi-flow cats, Borla, SCT tune, 18/19 IForged/PS2's '96 Caprice 9C1 '08 Hummer H3 |
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#4 |
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After 27 years in the chemical industry, my opinion of mechanical gauges is they all suck. And we have expensive ones costing hundreds each. Not that electrical gauges are God's gift to automobiles either, but I believe a quality sending unit and gauge can offer better accuracy and repeatability. Look for a gauge that can be calibrated range and span if they make such an animal for cars. Also, on a mechanical gauge if your line gets compromised, you have a leak.
But as you said, you're thinking poser mod. Yeah, right. You'll start using those figures for tuning. You know you will. Might as well get a good one! PM me if you decide to do it and want to see how accurate it is. We have our own NIST traceable calibration equipment here. |
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#5 |
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Mechanical gauge response is almost always faster than electrical - as anyone with an oil pressure gauge knows. Also, if you train yourself not to become fixated on the number, but on the difference (is it now reading higher or lower by a bit) I would trust a mechanical gauge before electrical (auto grade) gauge. Dave's blood pressure is probably measured by a "mechanical" cuff, so they don't all suck.
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Tom, Fuels & Lubes Geek of the Realm Last edited by Tom, F&L GoR; 07-20-2008 at 02:27 PM. |
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#6 |
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Thanks guys- I ended up going with this one
Auto Meter C2 Analog Gauges Gauge, C2, Boost/ Vacuum, 30 in. Hg/ 20 psi, 2 1/ 16 in., Analog, Mechanical, and the XD-16 for the A/F
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99 ACR Silver/Steel Grey Stripes- Roe SC 8lb, Roe Heads, W/M, Bellanger, Random Tech, Iforged Wheels. |
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