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| RT/10 and GTS Discussions (1992-2002) For technical and general questions and discussions related to the GEN I/II RT/10, GTS, and ACR Vipers (1992-2002). Sponsored by: Doug Levin Motorsports |
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#1 |
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Enthusiast
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Middle Finger-Fingerlakes, NY
Posts: 126
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Got some treats today and I'm stoked. Going to put them on this weekend hopefully, and add the old EBC Greens that I have.
Thanks Tom. Check was posted today. -jb ![]() |
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#2 |
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VCA Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: danville, pa
Posts: 442
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maybe consider posting an illistrated how to when you do them. i have considered going to this set up myself.
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#3 |
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ditto on the pics and writeup
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510 Stroker, Greg Good heads, DLM Paxton, Rebuilt and Tuned by DLM. Still need more boost...... ![]() |
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#4 |
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Tom's rear upgrade has been a great improvement on my car. You will like it! If you track, ditch the greens.
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96 GTS - Roe S/C: 753rwhp, 794 rwtq Built and tuned by Macedo Motorsports |
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#5 |
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My rear wheels dust up and the rear pads actually wear in reasonably close proportion to the fronts.
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GTS Dean - Team Texas '96 GTS - EMI Penske 3-ways, Aeroquip brake lines, Dilusi brake deflector kit, HMS carbon fiber airbox, oil pan baffles, aluminum flywheel, rear X-pipe, '71 GTX exhaust tips. 414/452, 11.88@123.0 |
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#6 |
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Enthusiast
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Middle Finger-Fingerlakes, NY
Posts: 126
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Boy it just looks like a "plug-and-play" of remove and replace the caliper. The only deviation from the manual, is Tom prefers that you don't remove the parking brake arm, as if you turn it hard the wrong way, you can damage the mechanism and damage the core. Just remove the cable with pliers/needlenose vicegrips.
The biggest pain is bleeding. My kids or wife have a hard time with "hold it there" and always pump the brakes while the bleeder's open. I usually wait for my fellow gearhead son to help when he's around. |
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#7 | |
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Viper Owner
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 913
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Quote:
Tom's calipers work better than the stock setup. You can fine tune it with a bias valve as needed if wanted for the track. |
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#8 |
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Note re: Bleeding.
You may have to do it a second time anyway. The threaded rod, ball bearings, needle bearings, washers and snap rings inside for the internal parking brake mechanism often capture air bubbles. Vigorous yanking on the parking brake handle and kicking the brake pedal during the bleeding process may help. If not, a short drive will do it. The amount of air "stuck" only leads to what feels like a slightly long pedal, not a severely spongy one. Results of unscrewing the brake lever arm bolt (without internal stop) can be "mild": ![]() or can be severe: If you must do it, use vise-grips or something to hold onto the arm itself. However, in all cases I know of the brake cable has enough slack to pull and unhook from the arm.
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Tom, Fuels & Lubes Geek of the Realm |
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#9 |
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Viper Owner
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 913
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Yes...the entraped air issue.
I've taken to moving the Ebrake arm and tapping the caliper with a mallet. It seems to get the air out when bleeding. I also don't bleed just a little, I tend to flush 2 or 3 bottles through each time. At $4 a bottle not a big deal for solid brakes. |
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#10 | |
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Quote:
Go here and read real experience about the brakes - you will be VERY happy. I have had Tom's brakes for 3 years, and haven't looked back. thanks tom, Thanks Tom, THANKS TOM, for the BRAKES Read the complete post. Enjoy. |
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#11 |
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I've had Tom's brakes for the last 4 years. I run B3s on the track and EBC greens on the street. I also removed the prop valve. The pads wear even front to back. This last Gingerman session, with front and rear pads equal at the start of the session. I actually toasted the back ones first. That is likely due to the fact that they are now braking about the same (although the front will still lock first) and are a smaller pad area.
VERY happy with this brake addition to our car. Steve |
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#12 |
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Terrific upgrade.
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Chuck 98 RT/10 BabelMotorsports.net SAFEMotorsports.com |
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#13 |
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Enthusiast
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Middle Finger-Fingerlakes, NY
Posts: 126
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Well found some time, and did up the calipers. Nothing to it.
Bled everything with some Motul 600, and I'm ready to test tomorrow. Thanks Tom. Cores coming back to you soon. ![]() Last edited by Bravo; 08-21-2008 at 01:29 AM. |
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#14 |
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I have Tom's 40mm Brake upgrade also, I love them. The car stops SO much better. Tom also sells caliper covers for the rear calipers also, they look awesome on my Viper. After having the brake upgrade for so long I can;t imagine driving without them! They are very simple to install also, plus Tom's a great guy to do business with!
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1999 Viper RT/10 600 RWHP, 820 FT/LB TQ on 150 shot 435 RWHP, 485 FT/LB TQ on motor NX Nitrous System B&B Headers and Exhaust, VEC 2, Vipair, MGW first strike shifter, Smoothe tubesW/S+B Filters, custom citymaker hardtop, custom vinyle stripes |
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#15 |
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Thank you, thank you.
If you go, you have to slow. Folks spending to go faster should invest at least a small percentage of that in slowing back down. The 40mm calipers are quick, easy, and relatively not much $$.
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Tom, Fuels & Lubes Geek of the Realm |
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