brake pad replacement?

[EMnuke123]

So i just got some drilled and slotted rotors along with some ebc redstuff pads. I was reading my DODGE repair manual that i picked up and it says i need a special tool tool to push the rear piston back in... is this really required? or is there another way i can do it.


also just another quick question, i was driving my 96 gts last night and i noticed the transmission making sort of a whine at certain rpms, is that normal?

[Sweet Ride]

You dont need a special tool, but it makes the job a whole lot easier and quicker. You can pick one up at your local auto parts store for less than $20. The tool is universal. It looks like a little metal box with nubs on it that help to turn the piston back into the caliper. It's very handy.

[99 R/T 10]

I used needle nose pliers to do the job. I am cheap(as most will attest to ), but they work just as good.

[AZTVR]

Originally Posted by EMnuke123

I was reading my DODGE repair manual that i picked up and it says i need a special tool tool to push the rear piston back in... is this really required? or is there another way i can do it.

Go to Autozone. At least mine locally has the proper tool in their Loan-a-Tool Program. Basically, you pay for the tool and then they refund your money when you bring it back. No hassle. Just make sure that everything is in the box before you leave the store so no questions arise when you bring it back.

I have one in my garage right now since I did my brakes last weekend
Disc Brake Caliper tool OEM 27111

You need to rotate the piston and push it in at the same time. This tool does both at the same time and is simple to use.

[Ratical2]

Originally Posted by Sweet Ride

You dont need a special tool, but it makes the job a whole lot easier and quicker. You can pick one up at your local auto parts store for less than $20. The tool is universal. It looks like a little metal box with nubs on it that help to turn the piston back into the caliper. It's very handy.

I got mine at Napa for $12.

NAPAONLINE®

[RTTTTed]

2001 is a different story as it is ABS and has 'notches' instead of holes in the pistons. I used a C-clamp and a custom fabricated socket I made together. 1 side screwed itself in almost, while the other side was a major PITA. I couldn't get the pistons to move until I removed the Ebrake lever from the caliper.

Ted

[Tom, F&L GoR]

It may not be obvious, but since I've seen the internal damage it causes, I will say it out loud here.

The pistons must rotate. The pistons are riding on threaded rods. You must push and rotate to get them deeper into the bore. You cannot just push with a c-clamp.

Evidence:



These are actually from folks unscrewing the brake lever arm, but the point is that there is "stuff" behind the piston - it is not like the front calipers.

[RTTTTed]

Perhaps my post wasn't easy to understand.

The pistons have to turn to go into the calipers. They do not move without turning while going into the calipers. I had to use both socket (to turn piston) and C-clamp (to push the piston in) to get the caliper pistons to turn and compress.

Ted

[EMnuke123]

awsome thanks everybody.

what about the tranny question.

[dave6666]

Originally Posted by EMnuke123

awsome thanks everybody.

what about the tranny question.

Give your tranny a shot of penicillin and you'll be fine.






Actually, you might want to consider a fluid change on your transmission, and possibly switching to the newer fluid. Here is some good reading on that. Save a sample of the drain fluid in a clean bottle for further analysis if wanted.

Under the Car and have a last minute question

Also, does it do it in every gear? At the same RPM? Coasting or acceleration?

[EMnuke123]

i just bought the car a lil over a month ago from bj motors and he said he changed all the fluids. it seems to only do it when accelerating, and not in a specific gear, at higher rpms. its not really loud or anything i can just hear it and i was wondering if it was normal or not.

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

Originally Posted by EMnuke123

i just bought the car a lil over a month ago from bj motors and he said he changed all the fluids. it seems to only do it when accelerating, and not in a specific gear, at higher rpms. its not really loud or anything i can just hear it and i was wondering if it was normal or not.

Vipers are noisy cars. Hard to say if yours is normal or not. Change the fluids - tranny and rear. I've known techs to put in the incorrect fluid.

[LPDesRoche]

Originally Posted by EMnuke123

i just bought the car a lil over a month ago from bj motors and he said he changed all the fluids. it seems to only do it when accelerating, and not in a specific gear, at higher rpms. its not really loud or anything i can just hear it and i was wondering if it was normal or not.

If you bought the car from Bernie, I am willing to bet it is a normal noise. Everything that I have seen come out of his place is top notch. The T-56 tranny can have a bit of gear whine at times so that may be what you are hearing. The viper spec version of the transmission uses a gear set with a different cut making them stronger , but a tad louder than the GM version.

[BJ MOTORS]

Answer: I think i would be looking at the rear end.If you have a broken tooth it may only make noise on accel or under load.While coasting you have now load on the ring and pinion and the noise goes away.Does it make a difference what gear you are in?does it make noise in fourth gear?If the noise is there in all gears its most likely not the trans.If the noise goes away in fourth gear than you may need to be looking at transmission problems.

Here is a link to 4 pages of searches for you to diagnose. I know from owning a 96 early years the noise was a common problem under idle. Hope this links help you find your problems. If not let me know and we can try and diagnose with some help. Here is the link.


Bernie


http://forums.viperclub.org/search.php?searchid=402766