Battery tendern & winter storage

Red94Roadster · Oct 9, 2006

I'm going to be putting my car away for the winter in about a month.

I'm going to do the following...am I missing anything?

1. Full tank of gas with sta-bil
2. Lift on jack stands and remove wheels
3. Battery tender (need some advice on this one) Any recommendations on brand? Also, can I simply hook it to the terminal under the hood?
4. Car cover

Not sure if anything else should be done?

Thanks!

ruckdr · Oct 10, 2006

That's what I do, and have been using the "Battery Tender Plus" for years. Yes use the + terminal at the battery tap under the hood, and a suitable ground. The connector that comes with the Tender can be installed permanently (I did), so as to use the Tender throughout the year - just plug it in.
Clean car thoroughly before putting cover on.

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00068XCQU/yahoo-auto-20/ref=nosim

Look for cheaper cost, I just found this with picture.

I have always used the Tender above, but also have one of these: bought it cause it's cheap:
http://cgi.ebay.com/12-Volt-Battery-Tric...1QQcmdZViewItem

Bought it at Harbor Freight Tools.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=42292

Never used it, but I understand they work just fine.

Later.

GTSnake · Oct 10, 2006

I don't think you need to remove the wheels. Just pump the air pressure up to 50 lbs and you're set. I think there's an issue with letting the springs sag for a long time.

Red94Roadster · Oct 10, 2006

Does pumping the air pressure up to 50lbs prevent flat spots on the tires? That is one of my concerns, since I will not be driving in the snow

Steve 00RT/10 · Oct 10, 2006

I don't think the new tire compounds flat spot like the old days. No reason to lift it up for the tires. I blow mine up to 48 or so. 51 is max for a Pilot Sport. While there is certainly no harm in buying an expensive battery tender, I have been using 2 Everstarts the last 6 yrs on 2 different vehicles with no problems whatsoever. They were $20 each. Just bought a Black and Decker tender for the new car for the same money. Battery tenders are not rocket science as far as the technology goes.

I don't think it's necessary to use gas stabilizer when only storing for 5-6 months. I've been storing vehicles since 1983 and stopped using stabilizer around 1986. Never had a problem. ( I used to lift all 4 corners and put a little oil in every cylinder)

Tom might have an opinion here on gas formulation today as opposed to many years ago. I think there are additives to prevent varnish type conditions which were common place years a go.

Steve

ViperJoe · Oct 10, 2006

While there is certainly no harm in buying an expensive battery tender,

They're like $60..........to me that's cheap.......$500.......that's expensive

Steve 00RT/10 · Oct 10, 2006

They're like $60..........to me that's cheap.......$500.......that's expensive

OK--expensive was the wrong choice of words. My point being....why pay 3 times as much when a $20 dollar device will work as well. Actually the B&D was $18 dollars. I was always told: "pick up the pennies---the dollars will take of themselves"

Steve

Simms · Oct 10, 2006

I got the cigarette adapter and just plug my battery tender into it. Just leave the window slightly cracked for the cord. Its been working great for two years now.

Call me anal, but I also park my car on 4 pieces of carpet. Seems to help the tires from sticking to the concrete.

GR8_ASP · Oct 10, 2006

I picked up my battery tenders at Murray's. Just make sure it is a tender and not a trickle charger.

I have one that plugs into the cigarette lighter for ease. For a Gen I/II I would mount on the left side of the toe box permanently. You can access the a/c plug without opening the hood.

I also used to use stabilizer but with a climate controlled garage do not do so. Bigest concern is condensation. Not sure stabil helps that anyway. I do like to fog the engine, especially if not in a heated garage. Nice to keep the bores and valves rust free. I fog it easily using the pcv valve dipped in very light oil. Using the oil to nearly kill the engine just as I shut it off. May not be necessary but what the heck.

I also do the carpet trick under over inflated tires. Prevents strong imprints from the lift surface into the tires. If I kept mine on the ground I would also place a moth ball under the hood to keep pests away (I keep mine 6 ft up so no issue). Also, for un heated/concrete floors having a moisture resistant layer under the car my help prevent moisture and/or rust.

joe117 · Oct 10, 2006

"Using the oil to nearly kill the engine just as I shut it off"

Is that ok for the O2 sensors?

Red94Roadster · Oct 10, 2006

Now I'm a bit confused? Got the battery tender info covered, but now there are a bunch of different opinions on "winterizing" the engine.

I'll be storing it in a garage thhat is NOT climate-controlled. Is fogging oil necessary or even recommended? I've never really heard of that for non-marine engines. If so, what is the correct procedure.

Thanks

pocketAA · Oct 10, 2006

Here is a good link that someone posted before:
http://www.dccarcare.com/tipowk/tipowk15.html

Has alot of useful info on winter storage. I am not going to be keeping mine in a climate controlled garage either, I do not think fogging oil is necessary, particularly because I have never heard of it. Everything in the above link seems all you need to do.

GR8_ASP · Oct 10, 2006

I did the fogging oil for several years when I had a garage without any heating. No issues with O2 sensors on that car in 10 years. I was also into boating and fogging is very normal for boats that sit outside over winter.

Steve 00RT/10 · Oct 10, 2006

My garage stays about 35-45 degrees for most of the winter. Not very cold. I put a tarp under the car for the moisture. GRT ASP is a powertrain guy, I'm not........but I have probably 250,000 miles of storing several different cars for 5-6 months every year since 1983 sans fogging. I'll be putting one away this week end that is 17 years old with 156,000 miles on it. Runs like a top and is still track worthy.

Also..I have the hard top on the car, but unlatched......keeps the seal from compressing too much. Windows cracked a hair. I keep the soft top assembled. I think it better to be together than folded. I checked my notes. I put 44 pounds in the tires. I don't believe in starting the engine once it's shut down ...good and hot. IMO there is no way you get the water/impurities of combustion out of the system by idling in a garage. In all the miles listed above, I've never had a seal or gasket problem from not starting the engine periodically.

Steve

GR8_ASP · Oct 10, 2006

Steve, given your environment, low moisture levels, and a pretty constant garage temp you should have minimal condensation issue. The worst is a high humidity environment with large temp fluctuations. That is what I had when I lived by Lake St. Clair. Garage was uninsulated and went up and down with the air temp. And humidity from the lake. That is why I fogged and such. Where I am now there is absolutely no need. Cylinder walls just do not have enough surface lube to keep them protected if there is lots of condensation. And the iron sleeves surrounded by coolant are one of the highest condensation surfaces around. Unless you borescope after a winter you would never know. Just a little extra iron oxide going out the exhaust early in the spring and increased ring wear. I also abide by the do not start the engine unless you can thoroughly heat it up (that means oil at at operating temp for a half hour or more).

I also assembled the top but did not fully latch it so the top was somewhat droopy. I did not want to overstretch it. I do the same with the Gen III. It is up but not latched.

All in all you will find many different ways to prep a car for storage and no real way to determine what is best. Change the fluids, clean the car and keep it as dry and steady temp as you can and you will be fine.

Leslie · Oct 10, 2006

great thread, perfect time of year for it too.

I always change the oil in my vette before putting it down for the winter, is it the same with the Viper?

I read on another thread somebody uses dryer sheets in the engine vs moth balls, anyone try that?

steve911 · Oct 10, 2006

that was me who posted that. I have been using them for over 10 years without a mouse problem in the car. I live in a rural subdivision, that is adjacent to some farm fields. I do see a mouse from time to time in the garage, but never in the car and I put out a sticky trap for the little critters.

Hey, that reminds me to head to the hardware store this weekend to get ready for the winter.... They are forecasting snow for thursday night here in parts of Wisconsin DAMN.........

GTSnake · Oct 11, 2006

I always change the oil in my vette before putting it down for the winter, is it the same with the Viper?

Isn't that phrase used when you put your kids to bed?

Hisserman · Oct 11, 2006

I mounted my battery tender on the car full time (can use existing bolts). I have a plug cover to protect the plug when not in use. You can keep the hood down and feed the extension cord through the gill. Maybe the extra weight cuts down on my et, but it sure is convenient!

Sorry for the dirt in the picture, but I drive my car.

pocketAA · Oct 11, 2006

Hisserman,
Is this the tender that is in the picture that you posted?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=42292

If so, have you had any kinds of problems with it?

JPL · Oct 11, 2006

I use this one with good results....

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker...7ESCM%7C%7Etrue

tzoid · Oct 14, 2006

Don't get too far over the edge on the winter storage...
1)Oil change + Filter........yes
2)Battery Tender...........yes, you can send away or buy one at Pep Boys. About $50.
3)Tire/wheel removal....waste of time. Bump air pressure to 45-50 lbs. and buy 4 pieces of carpet remenants and park each tire on one. Never flat spot.
4)Wash car..........yes. Don't put it away dirty.

That's it, pray for an early spring!

Hisserman · Oct 14, 2006

PocketAA --

No, my charger is a Schumacher. The link below will lead you to the current version of it. I have used two of these on different cars for six years and never had a problem. You should be able to get one at Auto Zone, Murray's, or any other good auto store (including Sears, I believe).

http://store.schumachermart.com/se-1-12s.html

SuperSaiks · Oct 14, 2006

Do you really need to change the oil and filter for winter storage??? I have read that mobil one synthetic is a very good oil and its perfectly fine to change it in the spring...

I had my oil changed last December and when I took the car out of winter storage in june using the same oil..all summer only put 400 miles on the car... gonna change the oil in the spring.

Plus does anyone know if there is a shelf life for mobil one, I bought a few cases this summer... there doesn't seem to be any type of expiry.

Thanks

Steve 00RT/10 · Oct 15, 2006

Just put one snake away........The $18 Black and Decker tender I just bought comes with 2 charge rates 1&2 amp and also 3 different plug ins for the DC side.
Cigarette lighter plug, very decent alligator clips, and ring terminals for direct hook up. Pretty nice. It's also about half the size of the Everstart tenders I bought 6 yrs. ago for the other cars.

I always put a tarp under the car, but as far as flat spots go---I don't think you need any carpet under the tires if you blow the tires up and are only storing for 5-6 months. ....Worked for me on several cars the last 20+ years.

Oil--I don't use Mobil 1, but have very seldom changed oil and immediately stored the car. The car we just put away is brand new oil, but the Steel Gray will probably have about 4,000 miles on it. Of course, this car is not babied and bad stuff gets boiled off every time we're in it. Analysis has shown this to be of no detriment the last 63,000 miles. However, I have never left the oil in for more than a year....in any vehicle. I'll bet it might even say something to that effect on the Mobil bottle. 400 miles for the summer is hardly enough time to warm the engine up........better change it

Steve

GR8_ASP · Oct 15, 2006

Steve, better confirm that is a tender and not trickle charger. A trickle charger continues to charge even a fully charged battery, eventually boiling off the electrolyte. A true tender turns off completely when the battery is charged, then monitors the voltage and begins adding more when it drops to a specific point. Not much more money but lots of difference in function.

I do the carpet thing under the tires becasue the ramps on the lift put deep marks in the tires over a long period of time.

Red94Roadster · Oct 15, 2006

I changed the oil in the spring of this year. It's time for another. Do I change before winter storage, or in the spring next year? Please explain.

Mccarlin · Oct 15, 2006

Dont the higher end "smart" trickle chargers turn the amps down really low once the battery is fully charged just like a battery tender?? I have a sears die hard automatic charger and never had issues using it for 2 years.

Just wonder if its ok or if i need a battery tender.

Leslie · Oct 15, 2006

I always change the oil in my vette before putting it down for the winter, is it the same with the Viper?

Click to expand...

Isn't that phrase used when you put your kids to bed?

uhhh....YEH!

only one of mine gets a blanket these days haha

Steve 00RT/10 · Oct 16, 2006

Steve, better confirm that is a tender and not trickle charger. A trickle charger continues to charge even a fully charged battery, eventually boiling off the electrolyte. A true tender turns off completely when the battery is charged, then monitors the voltage and begins adding more when it drops to a specific point. Not much more money but lots of difference in function.

Ron,

Thanks for the heads up, but it's definitely a tender or maintainer. I have an old Shumacher trickle charger and fully understand the difference between the two. A tender actually works similar to a water level. This unit is sold under the B&D banner, but manufactured for them by Vector Manufacturing. Comes with a 5 year warranty...even has a cap for the direct hook up ring terminals male plug end when not in use. My point has always been that the solid state circuitry in these things just doesn't cost much to make any more. To spend 2-3 times as much money for the 'name' makes no sense to me....especially when the big brand name units, or the parts in them, are probably outsourced for manufacture as well.

Steve

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