GTS Common Problems???

Badazzv8

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I've been looking around and searching on here and viper alley and haven't come across anything solid.

Does anyone have a list or a site to show common problems by year on the GTS's? I looked on the viper registry to see upgrades along the years, but couldn't find problems.

I appreciate the help, thanks.
 

Disturbed

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There is not a list I know of. However, what year are you wanting to know about. Are you looking for a 96/97 or something like a 01/02.
 
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Badazzv8

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I'm probably looking for a '98/'99 b/c of the silver/black combo, but if the right one comes around of another year/color combo, I'll be game.

I can deal with Red, but something about the blue/white that I don't like. I really don't like the stripes at all.
 

00prowler

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I saw 2 GTS's at Tatortoga with over 100K on them...they are pretty bullet proof and last like a 66 Dart with a 225 in it...the common problem is the car will get you laid...Thats not so good if your married and get caught...Al...00PROWLER...
 

PhoenixGTS

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The square trim bezels around the interior door handles on 97-98 is often an issue. The system they use to hold them on is just plain dumb and sometimes people will glue them on which makes it tough to remove the interior door panels if you need to. Just just need to use care and work them if they keep popping off. I'm guessing the 99-02 ones might be better as they are the upgraded design.

Spring on door hinges often fails so door will not stay open. New hinge is about $100 and if you take your time and have a helper easy to replace.

Carpet at bottom of doors get fuzzy and look like heck. Shave them with hair trimmers and you are good to go.

My gas pedal rattles when I am decelerating and do not have my foot on it. That is my project for this summer.

The cars are notorious leakers so watch for mold/mildew/fungus especially if it was parked outside and/or you do not live in the desert.

Brake balance plain sux. Get Tom's caliper upgrade to fix problem.

If you live where it is hot cooling system is marginal.

Early cars came with deficient o-rings in AC system that fail, leak and make a mess. Once you change them with the new part numbers it will not leak again. This is especially the case where the hardlines connect to the condensor unit.

The power window rollers make a mark on window tint film. Never heard of a solution for that.

Paint discolors on side sills by catylitic convertor and bottom side of nose gets beat up. An ill-fitting exhaust can burn the body. Headers sometimes melt the fresh air box. Powdercoat on valve covers sometimes fails. If you have a chance, checking out the u-joints on the half shafts is a great idea. These are applicable to GenII.5 RT/10s also.
 
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Bolt

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Battery sensor wire melts from the muffler heat. This effects the charging of the battery.

You must be registered for see images attach


Bolt
 

cornfish

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- Doors like to come un-adjusted quite a bit - which causes worn areas on door panels
- Brakes like to make horrible sounds when barely pressing on them and very off balanced
- Hood latches will bust on your if you don't use 2 people to open hood (after a while)
- GTS rear window shocks can go out as early as 5k miles (new ones are cheap)
- Window rails are stapled in - easy to screw them up if someone plays with the window often
 
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The most serious concerns is the software operating system of the Pilot. Many accidents result if the software in not upgraded to high performance software. If the software is not upgraded one must be gentle with the go pedal and steering input.

Pilot Software upgrades available at Viper Days, Skip Barber (racing school), Bob Bondurant School of High Performance,
Jim Russell Racing School, etc.

All other issues are minor considered to many other high performance. But all do require the same pilot upgrade to maximize driving pleasure and most of all one life.
 
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DAMN YANKEE

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Power Steering brackets break (Big Dave)
Power Steering pulley break (Big Dave et al.)
Spark Plaug wire get dried and brittle (replace)
Valve Cover highlites fad and corrode (polish)
Center consol can crack
Seat sides wear and tear


Thanks Baz! You would think after doing the Illustrateds on it, I would get it right...bad day!
 
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VIPER BAZ UK

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QUOTE
Water pump brackets break (Big Dave)
Water pump pulley break (Big Dave et al.)
Spark Plaug wire get dried and brittle (replace)
Valve Cover highlites fad and corrode (polish)
Center consol can crack
Seat sides wear and tear

I'm pretty sure DAMN YANKEE means PS pulley and brackets:dig:.......
 

PSilverGTS

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The square trim bezels around the interior door handles on 97-98 is often an issue. The system they use to hold them on is just plain dumb and sometimes people will glue them on which makes it tough to remove the interior door panels if you need to. Just just need to use care and work them if they keep popping off. I'm guessing the 99-02 ones might be better as they are the upgraded design.

Spring on door hinges often fails so door will not stay open. New hinge is about $100 and if you take your time and have a helper easy to replace.

Carpet at bottom of doors get fuzzy and look like heck. Shave them with hair trimmers and you are good to go.

My gas pedal rattles when I am decelerating and do not have my foot on it. That is my project for this summer.

The cars are notorious leakers so watch for mold/mildew/fungus especially if it was parked outside and/or you do not live in the desert.

Brake balance plain sux. Get Tom's caliper upgrade to fix problem.

If you live where it is hot cooling system is marginal.

Early cars came with deficient o-rings in AC system that fail, leak and make a mess. Once you change them with the new part numbers it will not leak again. This is especially the case where the hardlines connect to the condensor unit.

The power window rollers make a mark on window tint film. Never heard of a solution for that.

Paint discolors on side sills by catylitic convertor and bottom side of nose gets beat up. An ill-fitting exhaust can burn the body. Headers sometimes melt the fresh air box. Powdercoat on valve covers sometimes fails. If you have a chance, checking out the u-joints on the half shafts is a great idea. These are applicable to GenII.5 RT/10s also.

The gas pedal raddle is an easy fix. The cam up top of the pedal can have some play. I used a piece of sponge and wedge it between the cam and the pedal's medal bar. It took a few hour to figure out but only a minutes to fix. Over two years and no problems.
 

PatentLaw

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Strange....
when I used the search button, I came up with 500 hits. I would say that there were a lot of problems.

I typed in "problems". Presto......
 

Martin

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If you have the stock power steering pump, keep an eye on it - or just upgrade it. They seem to like to grenade without a moment's notice, and once they go, these engines heat up quick right afterwards. Once you get past 265 degrees, all kinds of strange things can potentially happen.

Otherwise, the only things I've had go wrong were the air box clips popping off, the hood springs going bad, lots of dead batteries, and some slight overheating from a viper tech who didn't burp my cooling system before giving me the car back.

Oh yeah, I also had a handfull of pushrods go out on me spontaneously last month - still haven't gotten around to fixing that yet. I'm going to install Striker heads with the full compliment of replacement parts, but that's going to set me back a paycheck or two...
 

opnwide

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timing cover gasket
window seals on B-pillar on door.
crappy gas struts for rear hatch
clunk in rear end (too much drag racing)
 
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Badazzv8

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Wow, thanks everyone for their responses. I know, like every car, that there will be minor annoyances, and I think I have seen a few of them through this thread. It's good to see that no major failures seem common. I'm still early in my research and search for a car that I like, so I'll be around browsing. If anything else comes to mind, please don't hesitate to add it to the list. Thanks again!!!

Hopefully I can find a Viper that has been cared for and that will be in good general shape. I'll just have to keep my eye out. I'm browsing now, but when I get back from Mexico in July, I'm going to get more serious about it. That is unless something comes across my lap that is just too good to pass up. I look forward to joining the community. :drive:
 

Purdue_Boiler_Viper

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I've got an 01. My only real complaint is the damn alarm system. The key fob seems to have an effective distance of about 12 inches, on a good day. I use the door switch to arm the system, and then hope that the key fob deactivates it when I return. Most of the time, it works first or second try. A few times, its taken 5 minutes.
 
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Badazzv8

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timing cover gasket
window seals on B-pillar on door.
crappy gas struts for rear hatch
clunk in rear end (too much drag racing)

No good, he wants a strong motor.....:2tu:
Timing chain cover notorious leak on '98's.

So I'm assuming they change the gasket in '98 for some reason, then went back to a different gasket in '99. Is the gasket the only change?
 

cornfish

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Crap, I forgot to add the special colored "Viper Sneaky Pete" key. It has plastic around the end and if you push too hard, it will snap (done this on 2 different vipers now.) I purchased a few '05 keys and they are much better even though the viper logo is different.
 
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