BRAKES???

[SCOTTB]

I know who needs brakes...Anywho my 03 the damm pads on the ebrake caliper where shot how i have no idea but it chewed into the inside of the rotor. Ever hear of this? I made my first call to partsrack what a hell of a guy told me of ebc slotted and dippled rotors sounds cool does anybody have any pics of these on the car also looking into ebc red stuff pads any comments? or better ideas?

[Newport Viper]

My ebrake pads were replaced at 24,000 miles.

[mjorgensen]

Yea I'm still up... The Ebrake was probably left on at some point or stuck. The pads and the caliper were not made for heat at all and in a very short time they will be gone. Then of course the backing plate's on the rotor, nuf said.

Check the cables and mechanisms for sticking and corrosion before re assembly and you will be fine. OR check the wheel bearings for excessive play they could be causing the dragging.

I personally would never offer the EBC pads, some people use them and are fine I just don't feel that they are up to the caliber of the SRT braking system and why give up performance and safety for a cheaper pad on a VIPER no less. FWIW

[Kevan]

The SRT-10 truck guys have very few options when it comes to rotors, pads, and calipers. We have the largest diameter rotors ever put on a production vehicle: 381mm/15".

The OEM pads were awesome if you're racing every day, but for normal schmoe driving, they bite a little hard. Actually, REALLY hard. LOL They also put off extreme amounts of dust (as any good racing pad should).

When it comes to EBC stuff, all I've heard is "BEST EVAR!" or "I'LL NEVER GO NEAR THEM AGAIN!"; nothing in between.

I went with StopTech slotted rotors and Centric pads from Zeckhausen Racing. Dave *knows* brakes.
One phone call, 5 days of shipping, and I had 4 new rotors (slotted) and 4 sets of new pads.
All for just under $800. with shipping.

The Centric pads are easier on the neck than the OEM ones. The slotted rotors are very smooth and I've had almost zero brake squeal since installing.
Brake dust is down about 80% from OEM.
The truck isn't able to 'endo' like it was with the stock stuff, but for the type of driving I do (daily.....usually following someone terrified to be behind the wheel of an automobile with no clue as to where they're going or how to get there but don't care because they're obviously the only ones on the road....I digress....), this setup is perfect for me.

I'm sure you coupe folks have tons more options, but I wanted to post my experience.

In regards to the e-brake pads:
I believe your rear rotors are the same "hat in rotor" design as our trucks (miniature drum-style brake 'inside' the center section of the rotor).
The e-brake can be adjusted in a couple of different locations. Check the service manual, or the Tech section here.

[SCOTTB]

Well what do you Recommend for brakes and pads

[mjorgensen]

Originally Posted by SCOTTB

Well what do you Recommend for brakes and pads

I'm sorry for the pointed post I just have never understood decreasing anything on a performance vehicle car ot truck. The rotor choices are vast and you will be OK with most of them. If I were working on my personal car I would always upgrade rather than going stock or "cheap". That being said I would do a set of the Euroteck or Stoptech 2pc. slotted rotors along with stock pads, Brakeman #3 pads or a set of the Mintex pads for real track grip.

Yea you will spend more but this would be a great time to spend the money on an upgrade rather than money on stock or a compromise. Most owners that do these upgrades already have a perfectly good set of pads and rotors on the car. If you really want to just replace the worn components and not upgrade put a call out to those owners that have the old stuff just sitting on the shelf, heck I may even have some in the take off trailer to sell ya!

WOW I'm really a little on edge about all this today. Like I said in another thread it's probably just the Vicoden talking so I hope I have not come across wrong.

[mjorgensen]

Got to get some sleep been on since 9am so i will check in tomorrow, night guys!

[RTTTTed]

I've got Roe 14" lightweight 2pc slotted rotors and I started with EBC Green pads. 50mi or a couple brake apllications and the wheels were covered in Black dust. My old Stoptechs(13") had Old greens (now called Reds) and they were great except the drilled rotors had slight "heat check" from the drilled holes so I went to slotted for HP driving. Hated the dust and changed back to Reds/Ceramic pads from JonB. Doing rears now and changing up to Ceramics (EBC Reds) for better heat durability (13" slotted/drilled Stop-tech 2 pc rotors).

Love the new brakes. Plenty extra stopping power. Work great for min. track time and street driving.

Ted

[Gisler]

Hello, had the same problem with my e brake pads, on of them was gone with 16000 miles. Took everything apart, cleaned and lubricated it, put it back together with new pads. then I sat that the lever on the caliper with the clockspring around it did not immediately go back to the resting position after disengaging the ebrake. The cables seemed to move easily but I think the springs are not really strong enough to pull the cables back right away. So I installed an additional pulling spring between caliper- lever and to the lower ball joint nut pin. Now it works fine. I replaced the pin with a nail which I bent and welded together in a way so it suits the two purposes.