Break-in?

RECOIL

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How did everyone break-in their viper engine? I find this the worst part of my experience so far... (grin). I really want to put the pedal to the metal but am having to hold back. Argh!

Steve
 

Joseph Houss

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Especially on a 2000+ Snake, break in is VERY important:

Here's the procedure from "the MAN" himself, Mr Herb Helbig, Team Viper Manager of Vehicle synthesis:

"Keep your vehicle speed below 70 MPH (113 KPH) for the first 1000 miles (1600 km). Do NOT make any full-throttle starts or acceleration during this time. Avoid driving at a constant engine rpm for long periods.

Here is a suggested schedule for best engine break-in:

Light throttle run-ups, shifting at a maximum rpm of 2500 for the first 200 miles (never exceeding the speed limit)

Recommend change the oil at 200 mile mark

Light throttle run-ups, max of 3500 for the next 200 miles

Light throttle run-ups, max of 4000 for the next 200 miles

Light throttle run-ups, max of 4500 for the next 200 miles

Light throttle run-ups, max of 5000 for the next 200 miles"

NOW YOU'RE DONE...and ready to RUMBLE!
 
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Change the engine oil now and again at 1,000 miles. The reason is to remove of any metal particles that come from the machined surfaces. Vary the RPM as much as possible. The worst thing to do is drive at a constant speed for an extended period. MY $.02. Have purchased 4 new Vipers and non-were/are oil burners. Actually they seem to use no oil between changes.
 

Bill Pemberton Woodhouse

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Joseph Houss:
Especially on a 2000+ Snake, break in is VERY important:

Here's the procedure from "the MAN" himself, Mr Herb Helbig, Team Viper Manager of Vehicle synthesis:

"Keep your vehicle speed below 70 MPH (113 KPH) for the first 1000 miles (1600 km). Do NOT make any full-throttle starts or acceleration during this time. Avoid driving at a constant engine rpm for long periods.

Here is a suggested schedule for best engine break-in:

Light throttle run-ups, shifting at a maximum rpm of 2500 for the first 200 miles (never exceeding the speed limit)

Recommend change the oil at 200 mile mark

Light throttle run-ups, max of 3500 for the next 200 miles

Light throttle run-ups, max of 4000 for the next 200 miles

Light throttle run-ups, max of 4500 for the next 200 miles

Light throttle run-ups, max of 5000 for the next 200 miles"

NOW YOU'RE DONE...and ready to RUMBLE!
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Thanks Joe, as this is what we have been telling our customers, except we were told not to go over 4,000 rpms until 1000 miles were reached. Alot of people will be happy with that 4500 & 5000 rpm mark prior to 1000 miles -appreciate the good news!!!
 

Joseph Houss

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Bill,

This is what Herb printed in Spring 2000 Viper Mag....I'm sure your contact may be just as knowledgeable....any chance of letting us know who it was?

Thanks
 

bad viper

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"Forgive me Father for I have sinned!"
I know all the proper break-in procedures,
but sorry there was NO way I could keep from
flooring the beast from day one! Call it what you like..
lack of self-control,stupity,childish...all of those
things..... but from the gitgo I have driven this car
"the way God intended it to be driven...WIDE OPEN THROTTLE!!"
(quote from the invocation at the Silverstate race in May)

Maybe I 've been lucky, maybe my car is an exception,
or just maybe this **** cars are BUILT!!!!!!

Now I have 67,000 miles on my GTS and the only problem
has been a sticking thermostat! (105 nitrous fills later!)
 
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i was in a friends 00 rt. he followed the procedure as stated by mr. herb. and for the life of me this car seems slower. seems like a slug. we have checked everything except going out on the highway to actually see...
 
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So what changed in the '00 car to make break-in technique more important? The procedure described above (working up through RPMs) is standard for 4-stroke engines, although it omits the usual medium-to-heavy-throttle-at-2000-RPM-to-seat-rings step.

Cheers,
Ben
soon-to-be-broken-in-'01-RT/10.
 

MiamiJeff

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Frank, Believe 2000 models actually are slightly slower at the low end. It's not your imagination.
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to JonB I read where there was powder coating on the cylinder walls,but discontinued. Do they coat piston tops or or combustion chambers or any good stuff. You always seem to have inside dope.
 

BigsViper

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I appreciate everyone's response as I too am trying to "do the right thing" during break-in. JonB seems especially knowledgeable and I appreciate his posts, as well as many others (NOT boostd's, although good for laughs).
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I changed the oil at 250 miles and have varied everything, although between 250 and the 350 miles I now have I have run up to 4000-4500 a few times.
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So far no oil burn. I intend to continue to push it towards it's limits (or mine) trying to follow the 1000 rpm/200 mile recommendation. I hope that since I have refrained from dumping the clutch, burn-outs and power-shifting I will be OK? Do you really have to baby this jewel?
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Thanks for the support, Don Bennett aka BigsViper
 

BigsViper

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Jon, I'm guessing you're saying I'm cheating?
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How am I going to "pay", a possible rebuild? Before I came home and read your post I was out running to 4000 in 6th @ about 120mph (370 miles on odometer). I've always believed I could sense when an engine was "in the groove" or not, but I have never owned a viper. My Tech said the main thing was vary the speed. Manual says keep it under 60 mph and 4500 rpm?
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This doesn't compute since 4500 in 6th is around 140. I appreciate your posts and comments.

"A luxury once sampled becomes a necessity"

Don Bennett aka BigsViper
 

Ray R

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I just changed my oil after putting 200 miles on my 00GTS. There were definitely metal particles stuck to the drain pan magnet. It was tough to stay under 2500rpm, but I am committed to following the previous posts break-in procedure! Next oil change at 1000mi.
 

Joseph Houss

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12-15% driveline loss = 450 HP+!

Heat and Humidity is definitely a factor...did the dyno operator have hood open and fan aimed towards your radiator?
 

Matt M PA

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I would concur that following the factory's break-in schedule is the only way, to make sure that your car is going to run well, and long. I stringently followed the break-in of my 2000, and while it drove me nuts (especially the first 200!) I feel that this is the strongest Viper I have ever owned. That said,I believe that the engine's speed is more inmportant than going over a particular MPH.
 

Matt M PA

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Jon..your post above brings me to a question. Am I correct in thinking that a 1000 mile break-in is all that is required...or...should you be "kind" o the car for a longer period. I have been rather kind to my 2000 thus far.
 

BigsViper

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Just gotta say I enjoy JonB's posts, especially that last one
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I would hope there is a difference between an infrequent loss of self control (twice outside the kindler/gentler mode in 385 miles and 5 actual outings), versus WOT from day one, as far as long term damage to the car.

If not you may see my 'oo steel gray in the classifieds soon while I run out a grab a new one, in hopes of obeying these "1000 points of light". It's just hard for me to imagine that god created these cars only to tempt and torment me with 2000 miles of break-in. I know, maybe we could figure a way to break Vipers in after 2000 miles. That way when the newness and the thrill wear off, you'll be ready to baby it (NOT LIKELY!!!)

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Ray R

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Now wait a minute....the original document stated 200 mile increments up to 1000 miles, and then "you're ready to rumble"! Is there other documentation that states a 2500 mile break-in process? Or is it more like the diesel trucks...pamper for 1000 miles, but the engine isn't truely "broken-in" for about 6000 miles?
 

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