Ulysses
Enthusiast
GenI's and GenII's up to 98? do not experience the CE light problem (I'm guessing up to 98).
There are two problems:
1) CE light because of removal of cats
2) CE light with cats on but O2 sensor is located farther downstream than OE due to farther distance of collector.
Because of the OBDII systems in the newer cars, removing the cats, for lack of a technical term, throws feedback from the O2 sensors off synch and screws everything up.
With just headers and keeping the cats, a header with the O2 **** at the collector moves the O2 sensor farther away from the OE position. This keeps the O2 sensor from heating up at the expected rate. There is a temperature sensor in the O2 sensor. If it doesn't heat up fast enough, a CE light occurs.
Having a CE light on might throw your car into safe mode and run too rich.
There are patches out there that will get rid of the CE light.
The solution to the catless exhaust are sims. Sims simulate an "OK, everything is fine" situation from the O2 sensors and keeps the CE light off. The only objection I have to this is what happens if everything isn't OK. You would have to install a secondary system to cover all bases that monitors exhaust gases like OE O2s would (or better) if they were there, and possibly enable you to correct for the error.
The solution for the temperature CE problem is to move the O2 **** up to one of the primaries. That gets rid of the light, but now you are just monitoring one of the cylinders. What happens if another cylinder goes into a overly lean condition? You wouldn't know. I have heard that there are a few headers out there with the O2 sensor at the collector, but do not trip the CE light, though I don't recall which manufaturers had claimed this.
I think these solutions are fine and do get rid of the CE light. But I do have a concern that getting rid of the CE light alone is not a complete solution.
There are two problems:
1) CE light because of removal of cats
2) CE light with cats on but O2 sensor is located farther downstream than OE due to farther distance of collector.
Because of the OBDII systems in the newer cars, removing the cats, for lack of a technical term, throws feedback from the O2 sensors off synch and screws everything up.
With just headers and keeping the cats, a header with the O2 **** at the collector moves the O2 sensor farther away from the OE position. This keeps the O2 sensor from heating up at the expected rate. There is a temperature sensor in the O2 sensor. If it doesn't heat up fast enough, a CE light occurs.
Having a CE light on might throw your car into safe mode and run too rich.
There are patches out there that will get rid of the CE light.
The solution to the catless exhaust are sims. Sims simulate an "OK, everything is fine" situation from the O2 sensors and keeps the CE light off. The only objection I have to this is what happens if everything isn't OK. You would have to install a secondary system to cover all bases that monitors exhaust gases like OE O2s would (or better) if they were there, and possibly enable you to correct for the error.
The solution for the temperature CE problem is to move the O2 **** up to one of the primaries. That gets rid of the light, but now you are just monitoring one of the cylinders. What happens if another cylinder goes into a overly lean condition? You wouldn't know. I have heard that there are a few headers out there with the O2 sensor at the collector, but do not trip the CE light, though I don't recall which manufaturers had claimed this.
I think these solutions are fine and do get rid of the CE light. But I do have a concern that getting rid of the CE light alone is not a complete solution.
