Jack Points - Questions

[Tom and Vipers]

First of all the 4 rocker pads and the front crossmember are given in the Service Manual, however, there are questions that arise:

1) If you jack up a rocker point with a floor jack, where do you put the jack stand?

2) There is an easily accessible rear frame section where the lower control arms connect - why is this not an approved jack point? Is it because there are frame weakening crumple holes present? (I don't know if there are any in the rear but there are in the front.)

3) If you can jack the rocker points, why can't you jack the associated points on the actual frame?

Any thoughts/comments?

 

[Nadine UK GTS]

Jacks can crumple the frame...OUCH! (and damage frame finish - early rust risk too...OUCH again!) I would only jack on the points mentioned, and axle stand on strong frame points (and then I'd use a cardboard / thin wood protection barrier).

Jack points need to be v strong, as jack has the ability to move, axle stand should be sturdy, only direct down force which is spread (load equation of physics).

 

[Ron]

<FONT face="Comic Sans MS">Point well taken, but I remember seeing a post with your jack stands Nadine!</FONT f>

 

[Matt M PA]

I too wondered about this, and took the question to a famous Viper dealer/racer. (In Nebraska) Anyhow, they recommended that the frame indeed shuld be used for suspending the car on stands or with a floor jack. I got a large rubber padded flat head jack saddle to replace the metal cup on my jack. This way, no damage to the frame. Also, a small piece of wood on a "V" jackstand, or carpet on a flatter jackstand should do the trick. I would also suggest jackstands being placed just inboard of the wheels. I think that the holes you are mentioning are actually tie-down holes.

 

[BigsViper]

The owners manual calls them lift notches and that's where you're supposed to put the jack when changing a tire. (These look like ovals made from 1/4" metal rod that the lip of the jack fits in). I have used this spot with my floor jack with no problem, I usually put a folded up towel on top of the metal cup but I don't like that method.

Matt, I would like to know where you got the rubber pad to replace the metal cup on your floor jack? Thanks

 

[jcaspar1]

Similar question. At the last Viper Days I saw several owners jacking the rear up via the differential. I didn't see this listed as a jacking point in my service manual.

PS I find the cross bar on the frame in front an easy way to get booth front wheels off the ground, then put jack stands at front/side jacking points.

 

[Tom and Vipers]

How do you jack up the front crossmember with the car so low?

I just went to a junk yard and bot a matched pair of scissor jacks since their designs are safe to crawl under. (This was a cheap $10 experiment to see how convenient. Only problem is that these jacks might have been from a Toyota or something. The Viper might be just a little more than they were intended for. Safety Factor seems pretty good though. They have a wireform crank that is probably designed to bend before you get near jack collapse - at least if designed properly.)

I was thinking of getting 2 3.5" clearance floor jacks, however that still leaves where do you put the jackstands since the jack is on the lift points.

Lifting by differential usually is OK on other cars, however, with the aluminum housing, I would want evidence that this is OK.

Still no comments on the lower rear frame the rear lower control arms bolt to. This is VERY accessible however is not a listed jack point. Nor has anyone mentioned it.

 

[Tom and Vipers]

I'm really trying to get away from driving it up on wood.

I just bled my brakes with the dual scissors and it wasn't too bad. What is nice is that you don't use jackstands. Once it's up, you're done.

 

[Jack B]

The best $130 you will ever spend is at Nothern Tool for their low profile floor jack. In the rear use either frame rail to the rear of the axle, it will lift both sides. This same jack can access the jacking pads in the front without boards. If you are afraid of scratching your frame, you probably shouldn't be driving the car

 

[BigsViper]

Ray, I also have that jack but have had no clearance problems. I can run it under the side sills all the way up to the handle without it touching. Are the 2001's really lower?? BTW, I love that jack even though people joked that it would be too heavy to maneuver...IT HAS WHEELS!! Also even though the shipping was high the cost of the tool was so low that the combined total was still way less than other options.

 

[Jay Herbert]

I use 2x10' with a 45 degree angle cut on the front edge. This works well as long as you do not drive to ar onto the boards. Besides the jack mentioned above, both Norhtwind Engineernig and Snake Oyl sell low profile jacks.

Jackstands should be used on the frame, but it is a good idea to pad them. I use pieces of soft plastic I got off a welding curtain, it is about an 1/8 inch think.

Someone mentioned scizzor jacks..... DO NOT go under a car supported with only scizzor jacks (or any jack for that matter), always use jack stands. I have seen scizzor jacks fail, you do not want to be under a car if that happens......

Is this the Northern Tool Jack: #144470 ?