Starter problems

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Ulysses

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I remember a post a while back where there was a wire corrosion problem. There are 2 wires to the positive post joined just before the connector terminal and taped over. The 2nd thinner wire was corroded through and no longer making a connection. Don't remember what the symptoms (dead battery all the time?) were but I think it had to do with not being able to start her up.


Just looked it up. The 2nd wire drives some relays. Could be your problem. I also remember posts about the protective coating on the positive cable being rubbed through on the frame, but that would cause a definite short and kill your battery.
 
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Ulysses

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Well, for a short, the most obvious place is to start with the positive cable where it contacts the frame. Check for wear on the protective sleeve.
 

Scott E. Smith

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Hey Larry, if you have access to an amprobe you may want to see how many amps the starter is attemting to draw, this is an out there idea but are you sure the engine is turning freely and not hydrostaticly locked? I had a blown head gasket on my 94 and had a similar issue. also did you have your old starter bench tested?
also do a continuity check from the positive leads to ground (with battery disconnected)this might show a grounded cable.


good luck
 

Nadine UK GTS

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Is the earth (I think you call 'em "ground" in the US) wire good off the starter? Considering the juice the starter takes, I'm amazed that wire isn't thicker, it doesn't look up to the job to me, should you ever need to crank for more than several turns!

Another surprise is that the pos (main battery supply) terminal onto the solinoid is just exposed, no plastic protection cap! Easy to drop a spanner down and short out onto the frame. (I covered mine, very nearly caught it a few times, especially when bolting up headers etc).

I have a few ideas I'd personally try, may help you?

Is the new solinoid good, not sticking? If it's clicking then your key on is good. Have you tryed keep turning the key, as if keep going to start, worth a try keep "clicking" it on, and it may just eventually turn over??

? Try rocking car by pushing back and forwards a foot or so while in gear (with no one in it; it will be hard to budge).

I probably shouldn't suggest it, but if all your wires are good to the starter unit / terminals tight / battery fully charged, and no joy with other suggestions, then personally I'd give the starter a wack, as in hit down on to it hard with a short, sharp blow from the blunt end of a metal bar, while someones trying to start it.
 

Vip-RT10

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The post you speak of is mine, I had the same problem. Larry, Did you have A/C put in? If so, check those wires. I had a short in the wire that connected to the starter relay and A/C (somehow). I got the wire bypassed and put a new one in and it runs now.......Gerald and Chuck let me be their friend again since it runs...LOL

Trace the wires that start from the starter relay and go into the car. One of those is grounded out, or like JonB suggested to me, it may be an ignition switch. A good stereo shop can do the work. I hope you get it to work again....Tell us what happens or e-mail me for extra info....
 

Bill 96 GTS

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Just a wild suggestion....check or bypass the clutch pedal switch. Maybe it's defective. I once had a bad fuse that would check OK for continuity but not flow enough voltage to run a radio.
 

RED97GTS

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Can you take a voltage reading while trying to engage the starter. I would like to know if it is dipping into the 10 Volt
range. Don't assume the battery is fully charged just
because it is relatively new. Pull it and have it load tested,
and recharged or substitute a KNOWN good battery. If your
alternator is not recharging the battery properly, or a
parasitic draw exists then you may have these symptoms.
Good Luck.
 

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