Paint recommendations?

LethalBite

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I am thinking about getting the ride a new coat all over(black-original color). Too many scuffs, chips, and recently I've been noticing bubbles. Not big bubbles, maybe they've been there before and I just haven't noticed them...had the car almost 3 months. Bubbles are about as big as a pinhead, but noticing them more(hood, trunk, door).

Anyhow, I can get a really good deal on a paint job from a good friend of mine, but was wondering if there is a "better" paint than what the factory uses?? I don't know much about paints and clearcoats, thus the question. I've heard that Imron(sp?) is tougher to chip and scratch(and a bit more expensive), but only pulled two messages up from this board and they were not too informative. Any suggestions are welcome!
 

Snake Bitten

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Here are your paint codes:

Black Clear Coat Codes: 2000 Model Year

Chrysler Code: MX3
PPG: 9874
DuPONT: F0840
Sherman Williams/Martin Senour: 46951
Akzo Nobel/Sikkens: CHA93:MX3
Spies Hecker: 70268
ICI (Autocolor): 2PA1B

I find it hard to believe a good shop can't bring back your orginal finish...Wish I was closer, I'd defintitely take a stab at it...
 

Matt M PA

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I'mnot paint expert either, but here's my .02.

Most modern paints are pretty good, even PPG's "generic" brand (name escapes me at the moment). It is my understanding that it is more the preparation of the surface more than the actual brand of paint itself.

Also, it is also my understanding that the Imron of years ago is no longer made. It was developed for aircraft use, if memoery serves me. I think there was something in it that caused it's demise due to environmental reasons.
 

ruckdr

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LethalBite,
I had a race car painted with Imron(sp), back in the early '70's. The car still has that paint on it. It is indeed very resistant to chips, scratches, etc. It is used on airplanes (small planes), and at that time, it was not a clear coat paint, but had very high luster (application done right). I had the car actually painted at a small airplane paint shop. Send me or include your email address in your profile and I will send you a picture.
Later,
 

dansauto

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The PPG generic brand is called Omni. I have two mixing banks (1) for Omni and the other for PPF DBC. I only use the Omni on the cheap 1995 and older type cars. The Omni does not cover well and has fewer tints (ie not as good color match) Any good shop that has a down draft booth and baking lights should give you a good finish. They should be using any name brand urethane base/clear system (per Gerald's post above) Note if you have bubbles then plan on spending some $ for body work as these have to be repaired. Chuck could be right and this is the resin popping back thru, or could be contaminate in the paint, either way it should be sanded back down and resealed. Plan on about $3-5K depending on the extent of the body work.
 

Magicboy2

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Oh, just another note, I spoke to someone who knew the previous owner of my car, they said the paint job cost ~$7k.
 
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