I just put in a combination pre-oiler/backup sump. With my system I put in an accurate mechanical oil pressure gauge to monitor the accumulator/sump. My car typically shows 55 lbs on the oem gauge unless it is run hard during hot weather. The mechanical gauge can be verified thru a schrader valve so I know it is accurate. I was running a true 65-70 psi when the oem gauge showed a constant 55 psi. I'm assuming most of the cars are similar. This car (97) displays the same as my previous 94.
Something you should know about your oil pressure gauge
- Thread starter Jack B
- Start date
Jack B: Using the Accusump System? I have a 2 Qt system built into the Transmission Tunnel my car, with a liquid gauge... same outcome as you. 55 PSI= ~70 PSI.
Snake Bitten
Enthusiast
Jack...When can you put one on my RT... 
Thanks for the info!!!
Thanks for the info!!!
Gerald:
are you in Ca for good? If you are interested I documented the install with pictures. It is a simple concept, however, there is a lot of fabrication and detail time needed.
It really is interesting the three quart unit can bring up the oil pressure gauge to about 45 psi for approximately one minute when you turn the key on and it can hold the charge indefinitely. Another topic, I just received the Spec clutch, it looks too pretty to install
are you in Ca for good? If you are interested I documented the install with pictures. It is a simple concept, however, there is a lot of fabrication and detail time needed.
It really is interesting the three quart unit can bring up the oil pressure gauge to about 45 psi for approximately one minute when you turn the key on and it can hold the charge indefinitely. Another topic, I just received the Spec clutch, it looks too pretty to install
WOW, I=RETARD. I run it at 20 PSI, so it actually becomes about a 2.25 Qt. If you run the normal 8 PSI, it is indeed a full three. I would rather have stability than volume, as I dont race the car. Pre-oiling function is a "thumbs up" though.
I do have the 3 Qt.
I opted not to use the pressure switch, but instead I use the electric on off switch, and I engineered a fill-bypass to eliminate the slow-fill condition associated with the electric on/off.
With this setup, I retain the on/off, have full-rate empty down to 100% empty, and fill-time of approx 10 seconds with valve on (oil hot) If valve is off, it is full rate fill, obviously.
One other thing I added is a High Flow Quick Disconnect (double valve) to the unit, so it can be removed with the pan, and the car can still be driven without it. Also, it makes disassembly VERY clean. no more spilling a freak'n Qt every time it gets disassembled, only loses about a Teaspoon.
I connected mine into the FogLight circuit. How did you do it? separate switch?
I do have the 3 Qt.
I opted not to use the pressure switch, but instead I use the electric on off switch, and I engineered a fill-bypass to eliminate the slow-fill condition associated with the electric on/off.
With this setup, I retain the on/off, have full-rate empty down to 100% empty, and fill-time of approx 10 seconds with valve on (oil hot) If valve is off, it is full rate fill, obviously.
One other thing I added is a High Flow Quick Disconnect (double valve) to the unit, so it can be removed with the pan, and the car can still be driven without it. Also, it makes disassembly VERY clean. no more spilling a freak'n Qt every time it gets disassembled, only loses about a Teaspoon.
I connected mine into the FogLight circuit. How did you do it? separate switch?
I put an on/off switch in the horizontal surface of PCM metal housing. It is sort of hidden and out of the way. I then fed the switch with a "ignition switch run" circuit. The switch just becomes an off switch just in case I have work on the car and turn the ignition on, this way I don't purge the container.
Couple pictures:
This one shows where the system is located, first version-(its not nearly as close to the Driveshaft as is looks, there is at least 4 inches)
Second picture shows the revision of the QD fitting, the QD fitting support, and the Bypass Fill valve:
This one shows where the system is located, first version-(its not nearly as close to the Driveshaft as is looks, there is at least 4 inches)
Second picture shows the revision of the QD fitting, the QD fitting support, and the Bypass Fill valve:
(pictures just posted)
jrkermode
Enthusiast
Final,
Is that the 16" or the 22", 3QT Accusump?
Is that the 16" or the 22", 3QT Accusump?
jcaspar1
Enthusiast
Jack,
I would love a copy of your documented install, particularly the parts you used. I don't think Sean Roe sells a kit anymore. My email is [email protected]
Thanks
I would love a copy of your documented install, particularly the parts you used. I don't think Sean Roe sells a kit anymore. My email is [email protected]
Thanks
JACK B- BOTH ends of the QD are valved. oil will not leak out of either section of the QD when disconnected. You need a special high-flow liquid QD in order for it to work correctly.
JRKERMODE- 16" 3QT. Really no need for the High Pressure system in our case, and fittment becomes a big issue with another 6" to deal with. The 16" JUST fits perfect where I have it located, with about 1" to spare for forwards/backwards movement. However, if you really want the 22, just fabrcate a 5-6" extention on that corner of the plate... or have an extra section welded on to it in order to extend it back.
JCASPAR1- I have pictures of the entire install from start to finish, including parts lists.
JRKERMODE- 16" 3QT. Really no need for the High Pressure system in our case, and fittment becomes a big issue with another 6" to deal with. The 16" JUST fits perfect where I have it located, with about 1" to spare for forwards/backwards movement. However, if you really want the 22, just fabrcate a 5-6" extention on that corner of the plate... or have an extra section welded on to it in order to extend it back.
JCASPAR1- I have pictures of the entire install from start to finish, including parts lists.
jrkermode
Enthusiast
So, Final, when do we get to see this in the illustrated upgrades? If you've no plans to put it there, can I at least get a copy?
JRKERMODE- One of these days I'll get around to it... gonna take like a year to write, and more memory than the VCA server has to host though...LOL
Hmm... just had a thought.
You know, since the only difference between the units is the amount of air space to compress, and the 3-Qt fits in the tunnel...what would prevent me from;
Buying the small 1-Qt system, mounting it next to the 3-Qt after removing the pistom from it, and using it to enlarge the air space on the other side of the 3-Qt system's piston? this would make the 3-Qt system into approximately a 5-Qt system. You could adjust the pressure to make it so at idle, the piston would be FULLY pushed against the far wall of the cylinder, (meaning thats a !FULL! 4.5x16" cylinder full of engine oil! thats damn near 5-Qt's) then the 1 Qt system, would house the air for the system. Doing it this way would eliminate the "fluctuating oil level" problem with any type of accumulators, because the piston would ALWAYS be in the same place-except when oil starvation occurs.
using basic calculations, if set up exactly right, (figuring approx 60PSI idle pressure)... the FULL 227 cubic inches of oil housed in the 3-Qt system should be fully evacuated into the engine, down to a MINIMUM of about 18 PSI, after figuring the 1-QT contains 100 cubic inches of air, and the oil cylinder would contain 227 cubic inches of oil (double the volume, half the pressure...empty volume would increase from 100 inches of air, to 327 inches of air, so a little more than divide by 3)
That is an OUTSTANDING volume, while retaining a pretty good margin of pressure... you could virtually NEVER utilize a system of that size.
It would offer about a 20% volume increase over the 3-Qt High Pressure System, while at the same time eliminating the hard-to-find location problem with a 22inch cylinder.
(PS- there is also enough room to put in a 2QT expansion tank rather than a 1-Qt, that would bump those numbers to like 35 PSI minimum, and a 50% increase over 3-Qt HP.)
What do you guys think?
(besides the fact I think WAY to much...damn engineer in me...)
You know, since the only difference between the units is the amount of air space to compress, and the 3-Qt fits in the tunnel...what would prevent me from;
Buying the small 1-Qt system, mounting it next to the 3-Qt after removing the pistom from it, and using it to enlarge the air space on the other side of the 3-Qt system's piston? this would make the 3-Qt system into approximately a 5-Qt system. You could adjust the pressure to make it so at idle, the piston would be FULLY pushed against the far wall of the cylinder, (meaning thats a !FULL! 4.5x16" cylinder full of engine oil! thats damn near 5-Qt's) then the 1 Qt system, would house the air for the system. Doing it this way would eliminate the "fluctuating oil level" problem with any type of accumulators, because the piston would ALWAYS be in the same place-except when oil starvation occurs.
using basic calculations, if set up exactly right, (figuring approx 60PSI idle pressure)... the FULL 227 cubic inches of oil housed in the 3-Qt system should be fully evacuated into the engine, down to a MINIMUM of about 18 PSI, after figuring the 1-QT contains 100 cubic inches of air, and the oil cylinder would contain 227 cubic inches of oil (double the volume, half the pressure...empty volume would increase from 100 inches of air, to 327 inches of air, so a little more than divide by 3)
That is an OUTSTANDING volume, while retaining a pretty good margin of pressure... you could virtually NEVER utilize a system of that size.
It would offer about a 20% volume increase over the 3-Qt High Pressure System, while at the same time eliminating the hard-to-find location problem with a 22inch cylinder.
(PS- there is also enough room to put in a 2QT expansion tank rather than a 1-Qt, that would bump those numbers to like 35 PSI minimum, and a 50% increase over 3-Qt HP.)
What do you guys think?
(besides the fact I think WAY to much...damn engineer in me...)
