Thread: Amsoil vs Mobile 1

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  1. #1
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    Default Amsoil vs Mobile 1

    Merry Christmas to all.

    Is this biased or real ?? ( I use Mobile 1 exclusively)
    http://www.synthetic-solutions.com/comparison.htm
    Later,

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Amsoil vs Mobile 1

    Go Royal Purple

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Amsoil vs Mobile 1

    the graphs look pretty, but the differences seem really monior. example: amsoil flows at -51 degrees whereas mobile one flows at -48.

    But I don't really know what the other #'s mean...

    JD

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Amsoil vs Mobile 1

    The test results are not properly interpreted.

    The NOACK test was to weed out conventional mineral oils from being used in 5W-30 and lighter viscosity grades. The mineral base oils first used were so volatile that some engines would "boil" off a significant part of the oil charge and the customer would believe there was an oil leak. Or worse, with no spot on the ground, they would never check the oil, even though it could literally be quarts low due to volatility. The early oils would fail with results of 30% or more. The difference between two passing results is immaterial to the consumer.

    The four ball wear test is used for grease evaluation and certain additive chemistries. To use it to compare engine oils, where most of the performance is hydrodynamic, different metallurgy, or different surface speeds is misleading.

    The flash point is a DOT limit for transport regulations. To compare oils based on flash point and subsequently state it has beneficial volatility (and engine oil performance) characteristics is technically unjustified.

    The pour point has been proven by technical societies and the automotive industry not to be an engine oil characteristic that determines proper low temperature performance. The two tests that matter are the Cold Cranking Simulator and Mini Rotary Viscometer. The results of these two tests determine the "W" number of an oil. The pour point does not. Also, the repeatibility of the test is such that 3 degrees doesn't matter.

    The TBN indicates the level of one type of additive in the formulation; detergents. Detergents keep high temperature areas of an engine, like piston skirts and ring lands, clean. Diesel engines use more than passenger car oils because they run hotter ring land areas (because in the US, diesels means trucks means turbocharged) and they run up to 80,000 mile drain intervals (so you want lots of this type of additive. Yes, it's a good thing, but if the oil has more of this additive, there should be more other stuff, too. Therefore I have always suggested diesel oils, which has more of everything.

    Amsoil has also used near-copies of the ILSAC starburst symbol on the front of many of their products. This symbol is licensed and indicates the oil has passed engine tests, bench tests, and quality tests. To put a copy-cat version on their oil is highly misleading to the public, misrepresents the oil's performance, and because it's on several viscosity grades that aren't even eligible for the symbol (due to fuel economy requirements) it's an obvious, unhealthy, and unfair "F-U" to lubricants industry in the US.

    My $0.02

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Amsoil vs Mobile 1

    Tom,

    What about me running it for a cycle and sending the oil to Blackstone, who currently has done one for me (under Mobile 1), and I am about to send them another one. Could we compare the two results, if I keep the milage the same, and put in Amsoil, for my next run, and get a report back ?

    Say, I run each oil for 3000 miles ??

    www.blackstone-labs.com


    Let me know. I just recently started having my oil checked, since I have a new Areo Motor, and want to make sure all is good.

    Jon

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Amsoil vs Mobile 1

    Jon,

    I am not saying Amsoil is not OK, or that Mobil 1 is better, just that Amsoil marketing literature is, in my technical opinion, way off base.

    Used oil analysis, especially at short intervals, one engine, and few drains, makes only for a vague sense of oil performance. You're being very safe in monitoring your engine (unusual changes in wear metals or glycol) but to compare what should be two reasonable oils - you'd need lots more analyses done.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Amsoil vs Mobile 1

    Jon,

    I am not saying Amsoil is not OK, or that Mobil 1 is better, just that Amsoil marketing literature is, in my technical opinion, way off base.

    Used oil analysis, especially at short intervals, one engine, and few drains, makes only for a vague sense of oil performance. You're being very safe in monitoring your engine (unusual changes in wear metals or glycol) but to compare what should be two reasonable oils - you'd need lots more analyses done.
    cool, yeah, it was just a thought. Figured they could tell me how much of the good stuff is left after each one is put through 3000 miles (of hard driving ;-) ) But if that wont help narrow down, if one is better, I really dont know..

    I ask because I want to use the best I can for my car, but there is no proof that I can see that shows amsoil to be better, OTHER then self advertisements, and SALES REP claims.

    oh well..

    Jon

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Amsoil vs Mobile 1

    I've tried em all,spent whatever it takes.Mainly because i'm a nitrous car and quality of oil is critical and needs to be changed every 100lbs.of nitrous.If you do push your changes to the recommended limit and run the car moderately I would get the Royal Purple or Amsoil(mostly mental comfort).If your changing, and you should every 2000 or 2mts.The cheapest Mobil one syn.is just fine.IMO
    I'd bet the car that has changes every 1000-2000 with Mobil one,will last longer than the high dollar oil car changed around 3000.
    Another issue with the High Dollar/Quality oils is the incovienence of getting them exactly when you need em,for most of us busy people.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Amsoil vs Mobile 1

    This argument has been hashed out before here, but I still stand firm that Amsoil will never be put into another one of my vehicles again. Contrary to Tom's insistence that it couldn't happen, I swear that oil is the direct cause of my Jeep 4.0L (the ledgendary inline six) being prematurely destroyed. I replaced a valve cover gasket when I purchased it and used only Amsoil for almost 50,000 miles (aprox 0.75 years of travel at 5k changes.) When the engine stopped working there was so much gummed oil on the inside of that same cover it bent a metal putty knife when I tried to clean it out.

    Mobil 1 scorecard = 100,000 miles on my old honda motor (aprox 2 years of travel at 5k changes AND driving significantly faster) the valve cover was still a wonderful shade of sickly yellow-gold with nothing I recognized as build-up. The 50k I have on the new motor also shows no signs of that crud.


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