Will running on drag radials destroy my clutch?

Kai SRT10

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I've been toying with the idea of buying some 18 inch rims and some Nitto drag radials for the occasional day at the drag strip.

I've gone to the strip a few times and enjoyed myself, but have been a little frustrated by the lack of traction.

So, clearly drag radials should help with the traction issue. But, can I expect to destroy my stock clutch if I'm running the 1/4 on drag radials?

Anyone out there who races on drag radials have any wisdom and experience they can share with a newbie drag racer.

Thanks in advance.

Kai
 

treynor

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Kai - I got some excellent times by spooning on 345/30-18 BFG G-force DRs and using a clutch drop @ 2000 with the tires cold. They'd spin for a sec out of the hole, then hook dead. Consistent 11.6 @ 122, and no clutch wear. DRs also don't wheelhop and are thus easier on your driveline.
 

1TONY1

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Kai - I got some excellent times by spooning on 345/30-18 BFG G-force DRs and using a clutch drop @ 2000 with the tires cold. They'd spin for a sec out of the hole, then hook dead. Consistent 11.6 @ 122, and no clutch wear. DRs also don't wheelhop and are thus easier on your driveline.

Ben, what wheel were you using ?
 

treynor

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Purner made me a set of 18" radials which clear the stock calipers with a spacer and replacement wheel studs. Archer apparently has a kit which relocates the parking brake and allows the use of those same wheels with no spacer and stock studs.
 
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Kai SRT10

Kai SRT10

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Kai - I got some excellent times by spooning on 345/30-18 BFG G-force DRs and using a clutch drop @ 2000 with the tires cold. They'd spin for a sec out of the hole, then hook dead. Consistent 11.6 @ 122, and no clutch wear. DRs also don't wheelhop and are thus easier on your driveline.

Hmm. Sounds like I can either go with the Nitto drag radials on the 18 x 11 SSR wheels, or the BFG G-Force drag radials on the 18 x 13 SSR wheels.

Some folks have said that the Nittos really require a long burn-out to get traction. From what you seem to be saying, the BFG's hook up pretty well cold. Choices, choices.

Has anyone out there actually broken something on their SRT while drag racing? What is the weak link? My engine is stock (just K&N'and exhaust), so I'm not putting down insane power. My new Quaife dif is supposedly stronger than the stock dif, so hopefully I won't tear that up.
 

Joseph Dell

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With the BFGs, I run them at 15psi cold and give them a long burnout to get them to hook. some run them at 22-24psi and can get away with them cold. Not I.

BTW - what did that Quaife dif run? I've been thinking about that upgrade...

Thanks!

JD
 
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Kai SRT10

Kai SRT10

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BTW - what did that Quaife dif run? I've been thinking about that upgrade...

Thanks!

JD

My Quaife dif is currently "in process." Looks like it's going to be a couple weeks more before it's finished. Cost likely will be in the $3500 range by the time it's all finished. You have to pull the stock diff and housing, send it to Taylor Racing in Texas. They install the Quaife into your housing(which involves some machining and grinding and modification of the stub axles, among other things) and then send you back the housing with your new Quaife Dif. Taylor won't get my dif back to me for a week or two, so it will be a while before I can test out the car with the new dif. Being Viperless (even temporarily) is driving me nuts.
 

Viper X

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Interesting thread. Kai, here we are again. I'm working on gaining some type additional traction too. I didn't know that Unitrax had new half shafts for the SRT-10 yet. Like to know where Maverick got his.
 
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