Any advise on changing the clutch pedal bushings on a 95 Rt.

[vipurrman]

I'm in the process of changing the plastic bushings for the clutch pedal on my 95 Rt....WOW, is this a tight space or what. Do I need to completely pull-out that entire assembly, or is there some kind of magic way to access that shaft. I have to admit, I'm seriously thinking about taking it to the dealer to get this one fixed. I've been laying upside-down for several hours trying to figure this puzzle out. Any info would be GREATLY APPRECIATED, as I'm really kind of tired of getting my hand stuck up in that tiny little space.......with no light to boot. Thanks much....


Steve J.

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

The C-clip on the end of the shaft has a relief in the middle, so best way is rather than trying to push the clip off (it's usually loose, so it walks around) try to pull it off by inserting a small screwdriver tip in the gap between the shaft and the middle section of the "C". First time you may need a mirror to see what you've got up there and so this explanation makes more sense.

Great time to relocate the clutch pedal peg, which a) lowers the pedal closer to the brake pedal, b) gives you quicker pedal action like the Sean Roe bar for Gen 2, and 3) reduces pedal travel requirement. Only $25 plus $3.85 shipping.

ruckdr took some pictures of the pedal height afterwards; I'll post them later today.

 

[Qualitywires.com]

I think there are a total of 8 nuts to take off....4 on the back side of the pedal assembly..4 on the top side and then you have to disconnect the brake booster arm and clutch, plus gas pedal cable..(It's not a real big deal).

Take your seat out..it will make things easier. I can take mine out in less than 30 minutes.

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

Here's the c-clip you're looking for. The middle of the "C" has a gap between it and the shaft that you can poke something into and pull it off. A small screwdriver will do it.

 

[Qualitywires.com]

part of the problem I noticed of the bushings wearing out is due to side to side play the pedal has on the assembly. If you were able to thread the end of the rod that holds the clutch pedal arm in place, it would help to eliminate the side to side play which would reduce the wear and tear on the bushings. The flimsey clip that holds the pedal assembly is cheap and weak.

 

[vipurrman]

Thanks for the help to ALL of you. Looks like I'll be spending my Sunday "Rippin & Tearin".... or something like that.

Steve J.

 

[prodiver]

I also have a 95 that I have had for 2 years and I have replaced those damn cheep bushings 4 times and they need to be done again.

 

[THOR]

vipurrman & prodiver --- How many miles did your 95 RT's have on them when you needed to perform this bushing replacement?

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

Relative to ab's comment, try a washer on the end under the c-clip to reduce side play.

 

[ruckdr]

Vipurrman,
Have fun; use a mirror to see up in there to observe the "C" clip as Tom mentioned. DO NOT REMOVE ANY NUTS/BOLTS; just the "C" clip and the clutch arm will slide off the shaft (remove the clutch actuator rod of course). I took an old thin screwdriver and filed the end to about my vanity 1/8 inch wide, then bent it to about 90 degrees to the shaft, and used that to hook the "C" clip and pulled it off the shaft. This after much frustration, and contacting Tom for HELP.
There is/should be, a washer already there between the "C" clip and the plastic bushing flange.
While you are at it, contact Tom and install the "short clutch", by using his kit which repositions the clutch actuator position on the clutch arm.

http://vca2.viperclub.org/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB14&Number=491325&page=1&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1

Oh, by the way, VIPURRman, my vanity license plate here in Washington is: VIPURR

Later,

 

[vipurrman]

Hey Thor in post # 507254....My green 95 has just over 35K miles on it. I've had the car since 1996 (Owner #2) and this is my 1st real problem of any kind. I hope I don't have the problems that Prodiver is having.....4 times changing.....OUCH! This job is a true pain in the yes, that part of its body.

[email protected]

 

[prodiver]

My 95 had 17000 mi. on it when I bought it and they needed to be replaced then. Replaced again at 28000 again at 32000 again at 41000 and it now has 52000 and I am replacing them tonight. They are about the most least expensive part on a Viper so I buy them 3 sets at a time. The car has never been drag raced but I do a lot of open track with it in the summer time. Take the seat out. It is much easier to get under there with it out.

 

[Rheeder218]

ok pulling this one up from the dead. How do you get the clip off that holds that actual clutch actuator shaft on? thanks

 

[happy56]

If the bushings are gone is that the clicking ,slight catch feel I get sometimes? 1994 bwith 29,000 miles

 

[Dan Cragin]

We have a exchange pedal box with bronze bushings, special order.

 

[aviatorone]

Where can we pick up these bushings? thx

 

[GTS Dean]

I'm in the process of changing the plastic bushings for the clutch pedal on my 95 Rt....WOW, is this a tight space or what. Do I need to completely pull-out that entire assembly, or is there some kind of magic way to access that shaft. I have to admit, I'm seriously thinking about taking it to the dealer to get this one fixed. I've been laying upside-down for several hours trying to figure this puzzle out. Any info would be GREATLY APPRECIATED, as I'm really kind of tired of getting my hand stuck up in that tiny little space.......with no light to boot. Thanks much....


Steve J.

One thing you definitely need to do (if you haven't already) is to remove the seat for better access.

 

[V10SpeedLuvr]

If the bushings are gone is that the clicking ,slight catch feel I get sometimes? 1994 bwith 29,000 miles

Yes, same thing happened to my car a couple years ago. The guy who did it (Viper owner, and auto tech) had a fun time getting the job done. As the 1st post asks, he ended up pulling out the entire assembly and replacing the bushings with everything out of the car.

Where can we pick up these bushings? thx

Chuck Tator can get you the OEM bushings.

 

[aviatorone]

Hey thanks, I went down to a local dealer and picked up a couple. I have everything out of the car now, I've added some sound deading and heat resistance stuff while everything was out of the car...

btw, I finished the dash, with removing all of the gray coating. Then had all 5 pieces painted a satin black. Turned out perfect, WAY better then I thought it would!

And don't forget to put grease on the bushings, they won't wear out in 5k.



Chuck Tator can get you the OEM bushings. [/QUOTE]

 

[latamud]

Are these the same for 3 and 4 gen?

 

[Dan Cragin]

This setup was unique to generation 1 Vipers. We often replaced the plastic bushings with phosphor bronze bushings and strengthened the outer box pivots. A permanent repair.