How should my car be broken in? And when to do the oil changes?
- Thread starter SRTRICKY
- Start date
quickysrt
Enthusiast
drive it like ya stole it 
oh yeah and try not to wreck
oh yeah and try not to wreckDSR207
Enthusiast
Take it easy for the first 500 miles, change oil around 1500 miles the first time and every 3000 miles after that , with mobil one 10w30. TRY NOT TO HUG THE CAR TOO HARD........ 
Congrats, Ricky !!
"the year matters" on SRT-10's as to the factory fill. 2003 and 2004 model years used Mobil 1 10W-30, while 2005's use Mobil 1 0W-40.
Suggest that you read owner's manual for breakin procedure, but as I recall, our 2003 said to keep RPM's below 4500 for the first 500 miles and to vary the speed, etc. In actuality, we drove it within those limits for the first 800 or so miles. We changed the oil at a little over 200 miles and again at 1000 miles.
ENJOY your new ride.
"the year matters" on SRT-10's as to the factory fill. 2003 and 2004 model years used Mobil 1 10W-30, while 2005's use Mobil 1 0W-40.
Suggest that you read owner's manual for breakin procedure, but as I recall, our 2003 said to keep RPM's below 4500 for the first 500 miles and to vary the speed, etc. In actuality, we drove it within those limits for the first 800 or so miles. We changed the oil at a little over 200 miles and again at 1000 miles.
ENJOY your new ride.
DSR207
Enthusiast
He got a red 04...... 
Kai SRT10
Enthusiast
Take it easy the first 500 miles.
I use Mobil 1 0W-40 in my 2004. Do your first oil change after 500 miles. Next change at 3000 miles, and every 3000 miles after that.
I use Mobil 1 0W-40 in my 2004. Do your first oil change after 500 miles. Next change at 3000 miles, and every 3000 miles after that.
My post read "Mobil 1 0W-40"(the "1 means synthetic) "0"(zero)W-40...admittedly, one must look closely to see the extra space between the "1" and the ""0"...SORRY for any confusion.
Oh I missed that lol....I didn't even know there was a 0W-40 (as you can see i'm not the brightest when it comes to engines...i just love the styling) So you use 0W40 ever since your first 500 mile oil change? Whats the difference in oil any ways?
DSR207
Enthusiast
RICKY, 04 uses Mobil 1 10w30, recommended by DODGE. And now the 05 are using w40, which is a heavier oil. I have been learning about the differences between oils my self, do a search under oil change, and oil level and you will find all kind of helpful information ...
http://vca2.viperclub.org/forums/showthreaded.php?Cat=&Board=UBB21&Number=504938&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&vc=1
http://vca2.viperclub.org/forums/showthreaded.php?Cat=&Board=UBB21&Number=504938&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&vc=1
MHO - change oil at 500 miles then every 2000-2500/every 3 months - which ever
comes first. the vipers tend to sit alot thats why i always change the oil every
3 months even if i have only driven it 100 miles. why would you ask - condensation.
i'm sure not everyone would agree with this but its what i do.
as far as break in - first 500 miles no more then 4500rpm's and dont drive it at
a constant rpm. after that kick it in the arss. my srt after 2000 miles seem's
to run so much better then when it was new. its starting to feel like my 02 rt
felt in 1st gear(major torque).
be extremely careful with the power at first, that snake will bite ya good. it
will show you what venum is all about.
GOOD LUCK, WELCOME, POST PICS
comes first. the vipers tend to sit alot thats why i always change the oil every
3 months even if i have only driven it 100 miles. why would you ask - condensation.
i'm sure not everyone would agree with this but its what i do.
as far as break in - first 500 miles no more then 4500rpm's and dont drive it at
a constant rpm. after that kick it in the arss. my srt after 2000 miles seem's
to run so much better then when it was new. its starting to feel like my 02 rt
felt in 1st gear(major torque).
be extremely careful with the power at first, that snake will bite ya good. it
will show you what venum is all about.
GOOD LUCK, WELCOME, POST PICS
Kai SRT10
Enthusiast
Is it better to use 10w30 or 10w40 in an 04? I thought someone above said 10w40 for the 05s
0W-40 wasn't widely available when the 03 Viper came out. 10w-30 was the best there was at the time.
05 Vipers come with 0W-40, and DC recommends 0W-40 for the Viper now. The engine hasn't changed since 2004, the available oil has changed.
DSR207
Enthusiast
Poor Ricky 
, he asked a simple question and he got so many confusing answers...Welcome to Viper 101. Don't get me wrong, I love the help and advice every one offers, but sometimes it can be overwhelming. Take steve's advice "Suggest that you read owner's manual for breakin procedure" and for which kind of oil to use, MAY THE FORCE BE WITH YOU....
, he asked a simple question and he got so many confusing answers...Welcome to Viper 101. Don't get me wrong, I love the help and advice every one offers, but sometimes it can be overwhelming. Take steve's advice "Suggest that you read owner's manual for breakin procedure" and for which kind of oil to use, MAY THE FORCE BE WITH YOU.... Skip White
Enthusiast
May I add more confusion to the subject.
Here is my opinion on the way a the car should be broke in.
Drain the factory oil out immediately when you get the car. Put in a plain petroleum oil. Run the car for 15 minuets, then drain the oil and put back in the same brand of petroleum oil. Run the car rather hard, up to 4000-4500 rpm. Hard city miles, never cruise at sustained speed. Exercise the engine constantly. Run it up there to the 4-K mark as much as possible.
After 500 miles drain oil, and go back once more with petro. oil. Run for another 1500-2000 miles, and if there is no oil consumption at that point, drain the oil, and fill with Amsoil Ser. 2000 racing oil. This is a 35,000 mile oil, but change every 3-4-K to keep aditive package at it's peak.
Do this and you will dyno out 15-20 hp better than those who do otherwise, not to mention many other benefits.
You can't possibly seat the rings properly any other way. No use doing any of this if you have been dilly dalling around at cruising speed for several hundred miles. What I say is not an opinion, but the cold hard facts. The factory would rather play it safe, as they don't want you at the rev-limiter the day you get the car. Synthetic oil in any new engine is to much of a good thing, but since Mobil 1 really does not have any of the true caracteristics of a pure synthetic oil, it may not be so bad. I've heard this from several people that know engines very well, and I spoke with my uncle about it, and what he said was, you don't have long to break an engine in properly. It must be done very early on, regardless of what type engine it is.
No problem with the petro. oil for breakin, since your not bouncing off the redline constantly. Lower emissions, slight increase in fuel mileage, and a slight safeguard for a car that will be ran hard, for those reasons the factory choose synthetic, even though it's a poor grade of it. Seems, like they would know that it's not good to seat the rings properly. Any inspection shop will tell you that fresh oil will give lower emissions, synthetic oil doe's this even better, and the factory will do anything they can to keep those numbers down, so maybe this is why syn. oil is in the car when new, but it may seal it's fate for good ring seating.
Skip White
Here is my opinion on the way a the car should be broke in.
Drain the factory oil out immediately when you get the car. Put in a plain petroleum oil. Run the car for 15 minuets, then drain the oil and put back in the same brand of petroleum oil. Run the car rather hard, up to 4000-4500 rpm. Hard city miles, never cruise at sustained speed. Exercise the engine constantly. Run it up there to the 4-K mark as much as possible.
After 500 miles drain oil, and go back once more with petro. oil. Run for another 1500-2000 miles, and if there is no oil consumption at that point, drain the oil, and fill with Amsoil Ser. 2000 racing oil. This is a 35,000 mile oil, but change every 3-4-K to keep aditive package at it's peak.
Do this and you will dyno out 15-20 hp better than those who do otherwise, not to mention many other benefits.
You can't possibly seat the rings properly any other way. No use doing any of this if you have been dilly dalling around at cruising speed for several hundred miles. What I say is not an opinion, but the cold hard facts. The factory would rather play it safe, as they don't want you at the rev-limiter the day you get the car. Synthetic oil in any new engine is to much of a good thing, but since Mobil 1 really does not have any of the true caracteristics of a pure synthetic oil, it may not be so bad. I've heard this from several people that know engines very well, and I spoke with my uncle about it, and what he said was, you don't have long to break an engine in properly. It must be done very early on, regardless of what type engine it is.
No problem with the petro. oil for breakin, since your not bouncing off the redline constantly. Lower emissions, slight increase in fuel mileage, and a slight safeguard for a car that will be ran hard, for those reasons the factory choose synthetic, even though it's a poor grade of it. Seems, like they would know that it's not good to seat the rings properly. Any inspection shop will tell you that fresh oil will give lower emissions, synthetic oil doe's this even better, and the factory will do anything they can to keep those numbers down, so maybe this is why syn. oil is in the car when new, but it may seal it's fate for good ring seating.
Skip White
So this procedure works for all ring designs, ring tensions, ring materials with all bore materials and bore surface finishes? And Mobil 1 does not have any of the true characteristics of a pure synthetic oil
Seems like if this was the only true way to break an engine in then OEMs would have gravitated to it through the decades of testing they have done. Or is this another thing that automakers inexplicably have not found out about yet any backyard mechanic has heard about (and yes I have read the internet story regarding this break-in theory - but it was performed very unscientifically, without varying the primary variables in engine design and manufacture)? And please tell how poor ring sealing would lead to lower emissions.
DSR207
Enthusiast
Had enough Ricky ?
Skip White
Enthusiast
Chris I'm glad you asked the above,
I'm 49 years old, and all my life my dad has been telling me to exersize a fresh engine in the manner I've listed above. I really thought it was back yard talk, as my dad is 72 years old and can't read or write. I then noticed in the owners manual for the Viper it said, during breakin, do not run the car at a sustained,'steady' rpm, meaning don't get in the car and get on the freway for a long trip without varying the engine speed. So my dad was right. My dad would say you will permanantly shortan the life and lower the horspower if you don't do this,but you know how listening to dad can be sometimes. I wish the factory would make this clear. I spoke to my uncle that can read and write, and has been building engines that cost up to $50,000 for the last 40 years, this question. All he had to say is that you have very little time to break in an engine properly. Ring technolagy has improved greatly over the last 25 years, but it's far from perfect. It doesn't matter who made the engine. It really something to watch this take place on the dyno, but they really try getting done quickly, as to not let the oval shaped pattern in the cylinder walls get started. They run all engines up to 80& of their max, then after about 15 pulls they move up to 90% or better, then right at 90% of there max rpm.
Here's a very interesting story that happend to my uncle about 15 or so years ago, he really learned a lesson the hard way. He built a circle track engine for a customer,'about an $8,000 engine, and the customer insisted he put systhetic oil in from the start. When they dynoed the engine, they were unable to seat the rings, loosing about 20-25 horse power from where this engine should have been, he looked further and noticed the high levels of hydrocarbons, 'I think that's what it was'. They drained the oil, and still couldn't get it to seat, as the synthetic oil had penetrated the pores of the metal. They can't sit there all day on the dyno trying to seat this engine and the customer sure can't do it on the track. They had to completly rebuild the engine and cook the block to high temp to remove all traces of this. Now on the street this breakin would have eventually happend, when draining out the syn. Mack truck engines forbid the use of it in a new engine, but welcome it after seating has occured. I went through what my uncle did, with a new Mack truck. One gallon per week slipping past the rings until I drained the Amsoil syn. out of it. It then took only two weeks of daily use for it to stop oil consumption completly.
Your question about how this affects emmisions, well synthetic oil has a slightly higher flash point and hydrocarbon levels are allways lower when using it. Sadly what ever the emmission level is with synthetic in a brand new engine, it will never get better, as it would with petro.
True breakin procedures are somewhat complex. The factory really does want you to do this. They just don't want you bouncing off the red line all week long in your new Viper. I'm sure when they say 4-K max for 1000 miles, they know you'll be doing a bit over that anyway. Kind of like the posted speed limit.
Exercising the engine will push the rings in a perfect cirlce, cruising will forever halt this, as will using synthetic oil.
I hope I've made things a bit more clear for you on this.
Skip White
I'm 49 years old, and all my life my dad has been telling me to exersize a fresh engine in the manner I've listed above. I really thought it was back yard talk, as my dad is 72 years old and can't read or write. I then noticed in the owners manual for the Viper it said, during breakin, do not run the car at a sustained,'steady' rpm, meaning don't get in the car and get on the freway for a long trip without varying the engine speed. So my dad was right. My dad would say you will permanantly shortan the life and lower the horspower if you don't do this,but you know how listening to dad can be sometimes. I wish the factory would make this clear. I spoke to my uncle that can read and write, and has been building engines that cost up to $50,000 for the last 40 years, this question. All he had to say is that you have very little time to break in an engine properly. Ring technolagy has improved greatly over the last 25 years, but it's far from perfect. It doesn't matter who made the engine. It really something to watch this take place on the dyno, but they really try getting done quickly, as to not let the oval shaped pattern in the cylinder walls get started. They run all engines up to 80& of their max, then after about 15 pulls they move up to 90% or better, then right at 90% of there max rpm.
Here's a very interesting story that happend to my uncle about 15 or so years ago, he really learned a lesson the hard way. He built a circle track engine for a customer,'about an $8,000 engine, and the customer insisted he put systhetic oil in from the start. When they dynoed the engine, they were unable to seat the rings, loosing about 20-25 horse power from where this engine should have been, he looked further and noticed the high levels of hydrocarbons, 'I think that's what it was'. They drained the oil, and still couldn't get it to seat, as the synthetic oil had penetrated the pores of the metal. They can't sit there all day on the dyno trying to seat this engine and the customer sure can't do it on the track. They had to completly rebuild the engine and cook the block to high temp to remove all traces of this. Now on the street this breakin would have eventually happend, when draining out the syn. Mack truck engines forbid the use of it in a new engine, but welcome it after seating has occured. I went through what my uncle did, with a new Mack truck. One gallon per week slipping past the rings until I drained the Amsoil syn. out of it. It then took only two weeks of daily use for it to stop oil consumption completly.
Your question about how this affects emmisions, well synthetic oil has a slightly higher flash point and hydrocarbon levels are allways lower when using it. Sadly what ever the emmission level is with synthetic in a brand new engine, it will never get better, as it would with petro.
True breakin procedures are somewhat complex. The factory really does want you to do this. They just don't want you bouncing off the red line all week long in your new Viper. I'm sure when they say 4-K max for 1000 miles, they know you'll be doing a bit over that anyway. Kind of like the posted speed limit.
Exercising the engine will push the rings in a perfect cirlce, cruising will forever halt this, as will using synthetic oil.
I hope I've made things a bit more clear for you on this.
Skip White
gthomas
Enthusiast
Skip, I agree about the 'setting'.
Growing up, I would always hear run it for 1/2 hour on the highway, this way and that way for breaking an engine in.
However, I decided to borrow from a friend who races 750cc motorcycles.
Naturally you will have some miles after getting it home, but this works even better on a fresh rebuild.
If it comes with synthetic oil, dump immediately with a nonSynth oil. Then:
1) Run the engine with no load for 10 minutes. Let cool down.
2) Drive for 10 minutes in 1-2-3 gears, at a light load, and low rpm's. Let cool down.
3) Drive for 10 minutes 1-2-3 gears, at a light load. Let cool down. (Increase rpm's)
4) Drive for 10 minutes at light/medium load 1-2-3-4 gears. Let cool down. (Increase rpm's)
5) Drive for 10 minutes at medium load 1-2-3-4 gears. Let cool down.
Keep driving for 10 minutes at a time, increasing rpm range and eventually using 5-6 gears, until 75 miles. Do not redline it, but youwant to work up to it. Change oil/filter (at 75 miles). Not a Synthetic. This change will help get rid of shavings from the engine.
Then do not exceed manufacturers rpm/performance specs for the next 1k miles. You will vary speed and load, up to the max manuf. rpm's.
I would personally change oil/filter again at 500 miles (nonSynthetic) and at 1000 change again, swithching to a synthetic oil.
The manufacturers breakin procedure is done for everyone, as in better somewhat safe.
Growing up, I would always hear run it for 1/2 hour on the highway, this way and that way for breaking an engine in.
However, I decided to borrow from a friend who races 750cc motorcycles.
Naturally you will have some miles after getting it home, but this works even better on a fresh rebuild.
If it comes with synthetic oil, dump immediately with a nonSynth oil. Then:
1) Run the engine with no load for 10 minutes. Let cool down.
2) Drive for 10 minutes in 1-2-3 gears, at a light load, and low rpm's. Let cool down.
3) Drive for 10 minutes 1-2-3 gears, at a light load. Let cool down. (Increase rpm's)
4) Drive for 10 minutes at light/medium load 1-2-3-4 gears. Let cool down. (Increase rpm's)
5) Drive for 10 minutes at medium load 1-2-3-4 gears. Let cool down.
Keep driving for 10 minutes at a time, increasing rpm range and eventually using 5-6 gears, until 75 miles. Do not redline it, but youwant to work up to it. Change oil/filter (at 75 miles). Not a Synthetic. This change will help get rid of shavings from the engine.
Then do not exceed manufacturers rpm/performance specs for the next 1k miles. You will vary speed and load, up to the max manuf. rpm's.
I would personally change oil/filter again at 500 miles (nonSynthetic) and at 1000 change again, swithching to a synthetic oil.
The manufacturers breakin procedure is done for everyone, as in better somewhat safe.
Skip White
Enthusiast
gthomas, yes the heat cycling in effect acts as a heat treating proccess. I worked at a heat treating co. years ago, and that was part of the proccess. Heat up and cool down. This really is essential on parts such as diffs, and manual trany's. Engines are a little more forvining on hardness of the parts, but that is part of true breakin.
As you said, change oil several times, but we are doing an oil change after 15-20 minutes, then at 500 again at 1000 $1.29 oil and a $3.00 filter is pretty cheap insurance. It's amazing how much engine compression increases as we accellerate, not so much from RPM but simple accelleration. This is so good for the, 'setting as you called it'.
Skip
ps, bikes really have a pretty high allowable rpm during breakin.
As you said, change oil several times, but we are doing an oil change after 15-20 minutes, then at 500 again at 1000 $1.29 oil and a $3.00 filter is pretty cheap insurance. It's amazing how much engine compression increases as we accellerate, not so much from RPM but simple accelleration. This is so good for the, 'setting as you called it'.
Skip
ps, bikes really have a pretty high allowable rpm during breakin.
vipersrt10
Enthusiast
-break the car in the way you intend to drive it, very simple
ROCKET62
Has Left the Room!
Have to agree with Skip. Interesting reading about a different view on engine break in:
What's The Best Way To Break-In A New Engine ??
The Short Answer: Run it Hard !
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
What's The Best Way To Break-In A New Engine ??
The Short Answer: Run it Hard !
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
A little clarification on OIL TYPE..NOT MEANT to provoke an argument or flame anyone:
Kai said: "0W-40 wasn't widely available when the 03 Viper came out. 10w-30 was the best there was at the time."
While DODGE dealers likely DID NOT stock Mobil 1 in the 0W-40 weight, it was INDEED QUITE AVAILABLE at Mercedes and Porsche dealers, (and some NAPA outlets around here by 2003). This oil has been in use in other cars since at least 2002 which is when I became interested in it and purchased MY first batch....initially called "European Car Formula" on the Mobil 1 container. For more history, see April 2002 issue of Porsche Panorama Mag.(citing a Nov.30, 2001 Porsche bulletin---and take note of the fact that Mobil 1 10W-30 WAS NOT RECOMMENDED for 1973 and later Porsche 4, 6, and 8 cylinder engines that would be operated in ambient temps above 86 deg F ).
Kai also said: "05 Vipers come with 0W-40, and DC recommends 0W-40 for the Viper now. The engine hasn't changed since 2004, the available oil has changed. "
Here we need to be careful. As noted, certainly the 2005 comes with the Mobil 1 0W-40...BUT, I have seen NO WRITTEN information from Dodge that this oil IS to be substituted for the factory fill of Mobil 1 10W-30 in the 2003 NOR 2004. I follow this VERY CLOSELY...but, to see if I MISSED a recent update (TSB) from Dodge, I visited a Viper- friendly dealer and we used the Tech's computer link to D-C...and found NO RECOMMENDATIONS to change the grade of oil in the 2003 and 2004.
Admittedly, this may not seem like a major issue, but I feel that is is best to stick with DOCCUMENTABLE FACTS in a public forum when ADVISING OTHERS. An individual can choose to do whatever they want for their own reasons.
Indeed, it may very well be that Dodge might come out with a retroactive recommendation, but so far we have not been able to find one.
Kai, please post your written factory info source from "Dodge" and I will gladly (anfd HUMBLY)stand corrected.
As an aside, YES, I am considering switching our 2003 to Mobil 1 0W-40...at MY own risk and for MY own benefits.
Please also note that I am NOT qualified (nor stupid enough) to argue the fine points concerning break-in...just noting that since I no longer have any personal track interests, I just follow the factory recommendations to the letter...which has ALWAYS served me well if/when an engine issue arises....another risk/benefit ratio analysis !!!
Kai said: "0W-40 wasn't widely available when the 03 Viper came out. 10w-30 was the best there was at the time."
While DODGE dealers likely DID NOT stock Mobil 1 in the 0W-40 weight, it was INDEED QUITE AVAILABLE at Mercedes and Porsche dealers, (and some NAPA outlets around here by 2003). This oil has been in use in other cars since at least 2002 which is when I became interested in it and purchased MY first batch....initially called "European Car Formula" on the Mobil 1 container. For more history, see April 2002 issue of Porsche Panorama Mag.(citing a Nov.30, 2001 Porsche bulletin---and take note of the fact that Mobil 1 10W-30 WAS NOT RECOMMENDED for 1973 and later Porsche 4, 6, and 8 cylinder engines that would be operated in ambient temps above 86 deg F ).
Kai also said: "05 Vipers come with 0W-40, and DC recommends 0W-40 for the Viper now. The engine hasn't changed since 2004, the available oil has changed. "
Here we need to be careful. As noted, certainly the 2005 comes with the Mobil 1 0W-40...BUT, I have seen NO WRITTEN information from Dodge that this oil IS to be substituted for the factory fill of Mobil 1 10W-30 in the 2003 NOR 2004. I follow this VERY CLOSELY...but, to see if I MISSED a recent update (TSB) from Dodge, I visited a Viper- friendly dealer and we used the Tech's computer link to D-C...and found NO RECOMMENDATIONS to change the grade of oil in the 2003 and 2004.
Admittedly, this may not seem like a major issue, but I feel that is is best to stick with DOCCUMENTABLE FACTS in a public forum when ADVISING OTHERS. An individual can choose to do whatever they want for their own reasons.
Indeed, it may very well be that Dodge might come out with a retroactive recommendation, but so far we have not been able to find one.
Kai, please post your written factory info source from "Dodge" and I will gladly (anfd HUMBLY)stand corrected.
As an aside, YES, I am considering switching our 2003 to Mobil 1 0W-40...at MY own risk and for MY own benefits.
Please also note that I am NOT qualified (nor stupid enough) to argue the fine points concerning break-in...just noting that since I no longer have any personal track interests, I just follow the factory recommendations to the letter...which has ALWAYS served me well if/when an engine issue arises....another risk/benefit ratio analysis !!!
Kai SRT10
Enthusiast
I've re-read my post a couple of times, and I can't find anywhere in my post where I said that Dodge had issued a TSB changing the recommended fill in 03-04 Vipers to 0W-40. I did say three things, however, that aren't DOCUMENTABLE FACTS.
My post contained three statements. The first statement is that when the Viper SRT-10 came out in 2003, that Mobil 1 0W-40 wasn't widely available. I didn't say that is wasn't available. I didn't say that if you looked for it at your local Porsche or Mercedes dealer that you couldn't find it. I said it wasn't widely available. If you want to disagree with me regarding what the term "widely available" means, I will defer to you on this point, as I'm sure you have DOCUMENTABLE FACTS on the generally held perception on the definition of "widely available."
My second statement is that the 2005 Dodge Viper comes with a factory fill of Mobil 1 0W-40. This is not a DOCUMENTABLE FACT. I don't have a written factory info source from Dodge. I've never even seen a 2005 Dodge Viper, much less looked at the oil filler cap or owner's manual. However, it's possible that the statement is true, even though I don't have a written factory info source from Dodge.
My third statement is that the Viper engine hasn't changed since 2004. (And yes, I've heard that there is a knock sensor installed.) Again, no DOCUMENTABLE FACTS here, either.
Perhaps, as you have access to a Viper friendly dealer, you could let us all know what the differences are between the 2004 and 2005 engines which led Dodge to change from 10W-30 to the 0W-40 factory fill. If you are going to ADVISE OTHERS, be sure to submit your bibliography of citations.
Janni
Enthusiast
Break your car in as the manufacturer recommends in the owners manual. As much as some may have documented the "drive it like you stole it" process, others have seen similar numbers / gains by following a more gentle and graduated process.
So, IMO, following the recommended break in procedure is an extra measure of longevity. If synthetic wouldn't "seat the rings" or do the job in break in, then the manufacturers surely wouldn't spend the extra cash to add it - not to mention the potential for engine problems down the road. While earlier engines may have come with "break in oil", modern ones like the Viper do not. I suspect it is becasue of the much tighter tolerances that today's engines can be manufactured to, thus making the "break in" less of a case of matching all the components than it used to be.
How can you go wrong by following the manufacturer's recommended procedure as they hold your warranty? and it's in there best interest to make sure the car meets their published specs and does not fail....
So, IMO, following the recommended break in procedure is an extra measure of longevity. If synthetic wouldn't "seat the rings" or do the job in break in, then the manufacturers surely wouldn't spend the extra cash to add it - not to mention the potential for engine problems down the road. While earlier engines may have come with "break in oil", modern ones like the Viper do not. I suspect it is becasue of the much tighter tolerances that today's engines can be manufactured to, thus making the "break in" less of a case of matching all the components than it used to be.
How can you go wrong by following the manufacturer's recommended procedure as they hold your warranty? and it's in there best interest to make sure the car meets their published specs and does not fail....
First off, Kai, I'm ONLY trying to separate fact from hearsay...and I was HOPING that indeed that maybe you had found some official info that I either missed or could not get.
In FACT, MB dealers HERE had bulk Mobil 1 0W40 in 2001, and by 2002 had the same oil in quart containers as I purchased some for analysis by Blackstone Labs...and as there are FAR MORE Porsches and MB on the road using this oil than Vipers ever built, my OWN interpretation is/was that the oil was available...ESPECIALLY to Dodge, had they chosen to use it...but this is a small point indeed.
No, YOU did not say "TSB"...I said TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) as that is an official mechanism by which manufacturers update service and/or "fixes" that fall short of recall status.
Since you said "...and DC recommends 0W-40 for the Viper now" I thought that it was important to point out that MAYBE we should SEE the recommendation from Dodge before allowing other owners with less savy/experience fall into the delusion that 0W-40 was now the "recommended" oil for all Vipers or, for that matter, officially recommended for 2003 and 2004 Vipers.
Historically, there has been confusion on "retrograde" application of various fluid upgrades in the Viper...such as the conflicting info on the Gen III power steering fluid...TRY THIS LINK http://vca2.viperclub.org/forums/showthreaded.php?Cat=&Board=UBB21&Number=424257&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&vc=1
....and the 1998 TSB on tranny fluid (CAN use the newer stuff in older Vipers BACK TO 1994...but 92 & 93 NOT mentioned...for neutral gear rattle), and even coolant (current recommendations from Viper tech (source stated) is to stick with 3 year Mopar "green stuff" in 92-02 and go with the Mopar 5 yr. HOAT (orange G-05 for Mopar) formulation for Gen III.
Hopefully, someday, Team Viper that became PVO that became SRT will take a position on all of this IN WRITING...commonly seen as a TSB.
Again, Kai, I am undoubtedly OVERLY TEDIOUS on this issue...especially as I frequently get calls from owners and Dodge parts desks in a 2 state area asking ME (of all people !!!) what DODGE recommends using in a given year car.
Hopefully, we can flush out MORE info from official channels and share it here.
Finally, Kai, if I seemed to be confrontational in my presentation, I TRULY apologize to you...believe it or not, I read my comments carefully FIRST hoping to avoid just that tone...even had Wife (professional medical researcher/writer) read them as well....but, I must have failed.
PEACE !
In FACT, MB dealers HERE had bulk Mobil 1 0W40 in 2001, and by 2002 had the same oil in quart containers as I purchased some for analysis by Blackstone Labs...and as there are FAR MORE Porsches and MB on the road using this oil than Vipers ever built, my OWN interpretation is/was that the oil was available...ESPECIALLY to Dodge, had they chosen to use it...but this is a small point indeed.
No, YOU did not say "TSB"...I said TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) as that is an official mechanism by which manufacturers update service and/or "fixes" that fall short of recall status.
Since you said "...and DC recommends 0W-40 for the Viper now" I thought that it was important to point out that MAYBE we should SEE the recommendation from Dodge before allowing other owners with less savy/experience fall into the delusion that 0W-40 was now the "recommended" oil for all Vipers or, for that matter, officially recommended for 2003 and 2004 Vipers.
Historically, there has been confusion on "retrograde" application of various fluid upgrades in the Viper...such as the conflicting info on the Gen III power steering fluid...TRY THIS LINK http://vca2.viperclub.org/forums/showthreaded.php?Cat=&Board=UBB21&Number=424257&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&vc=1
....and the 1998 TSB on tranny fluid (CAN use the newer stuff in older Vipers BACK TO 1994...but 92 & 93 NOT mentioned...for neutral gear rattle), and even coolant (current recommendations from Viper tech (source stated) is to stick with 3 year Mopar "green stuff" in 92-02 and go with the Mopar 5 yr. HOAT (orange G-05 for Mopar) formulation for Gen III.
Hopefully, someday, Team Viper that became PVO that became SRT will take a position on all of this IN WRITING...commonly seen as a TSB.
Again, Kai, I am undoubtedly OVERLY TEDIOUS on this issue...especially as I frequently get calls from owners and Dodge parts desks in a 2 state area asking ME (of all people !!!) what DODGE recommends using in a given year car.
Hopefully, we can flush out MORE info from official channels and share it here.
Finally, Kai, if I seemed to be confrontational in my presentation, I TRULY apologize to you...believe it or not, I read my comments carefully FIRST hoping to avoid just that tone...even had Wife (professional medical researcher/writer) read them as well....but, I must have failed.
PEACE !
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