INEXPENSIVE adjustable ride height and spring rate mod for Gen 1 cars

Tom F&L GoR

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A while back I posted how I modified an OEM Gen 1 shock to accept a threaded sleeve and therefore any aftermarket spring. This let me change to the 550/800 ACR spring rates, lower the car, re-use the OEM shock, for about $125 (if I remember right) per shock plus my labor.

Months afterward, I was contacted by viper_man40 about the details on how to do it, and it turns out Jerry took the plunge with his own cash to have a local shop do the same thing. Even better, the shop has autocross and track car experience and uses a shock dyno! Best is that they now offer this service for $300 a shock. If I read their webpage correctly, you send in your shocks, they will run them on the dyno to match the left and right rebound settings, modify the shock for the threaded sleeve, include the threaded sleeve and associated hardware, and the spring of your choice! And it looks much nicer than what I did.

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I really like how the ride flattened out, and (small pat on my own back) I was several seconds faster in my Gen 1 than I was in the yellow SRTs we had to play with at the Rendezvous two years ago. Plus I got rid of the SUV look and have the car down like it should be.

No, I have no experience with the shop, but just like the idea that they tried it and their first customer was happy. The price is excellent, since most of it goes to buying the hardware, and the fact that they match left and right side shock performance. Is it as good as the more expensive shocks? Maybe not, but it's 80% as good for 20% of the cost. And if you want to move up to fully adjustable shocks later, you can re-use the springs, so it's not all thrown away.

http://www.accuratetechnologies.com/performance/

If anyone has questions of me about it, ask! Like the 40mm rear brakes (small shameless plug) this is another excellent bang-for-the-buck upgrade. (Just wish my machine shop equipment would have let me produce them more easily.)
 

Early93Viper

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1. I have always heard that lowering a car completely changes the dynamics of handling sometimes for the worst. Is this not the case? What kind of difference are we talking about NIGHT AND DAY?

2. Can you explain the differences in springs? And why you picked the 550/800 ACR spring rates?

3. How much will ride quality go down with a stiffer spring?

4. My only handling Mod is Kumhos would this be the next logical step for handling?


I always enjoy your posts Tom. Keep it up!
 

01sapphireGTS

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93: Lowering my car didn't move anything toward the worse, I have the best ride, comfort, and handling of any viper I have ever driven [hands down]. Although I have no experience with the above mentioned mod.
 
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Tom F&L GoR

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Early,
yes it changes it a lot, sometimes for the worse. Going too stiff means you skate and bounce over everything, and even if you don't go too stiff, but if one end of the car is out of balance from the other, you have a car that pushes badly or spins easily. Hence, stay with front/rear rates at these "ratios" that have been tried and mostly true:

OEM 250/450
Roe shock kit 325/500
early ACR 400/750
Woodhouse race car 450/650 (I like this one)
later ACR 500/1100 but people changed rears to 800

Other individuals I've talked to are in the 500/700, 600/800, 700/900 range for cars that are some street, some track use application. If you get nervous about it, pick something you think you'll like, but go 50-100 soft in the rear and the car won't come around on you. Then you can replace just the rears later if you find you want to.

I got in a stock '94, then my '94 and while the spring rate is numerically double, it's not a 2X difference to your backside. I'm in New York, so the roads are not great, and have aluminum seats with 1/2" of padding, but I don't feel I'm too stiffly sprung. And if you do think you are, changing four springs costs $300, an afternoon, and if you get fancy, someone with wheel scales.

I use Kuhmos, and didn't want to go to higher camber settings to keep the tread flat. So instead of leaning the tire with camber, I went to the stiffer springs so the car leans less. Thinking this way, you realize you don't need as aggressive alignment settings and your street tire wear should be back to more normal.

IMHO, all cars should have come OEM in the 400/600 range. But that's a whole different thread...
 
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