What spring rates do you run with Motons?

INSOMNIAC

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What spring rates do you guys run at the front and at the rear with Moton Clubsport suspension?

What brand springs do you use?

It will be a road race setup and I'll use Comp Coupe sway bars. I was thinking of 700 lbs at the front and 800 lbs at the rear. Is that too firm?


:2tu:
 

SCLSSRT10

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Currently I have 500 front and 750 rear, but am thinking about going to 750 and 1000 rspectively. You should always figure on a 250# difference or the car may have a tendency to push.
 
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INSOMNIAC

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Currently I have 500 front and 750 rear, but am thinking about going to 750 and 1000 rspectively. You should always figure on a 250# difference or the car may have a tendency to push.

500 lbs for the front is a little soft. I've heard 700 lb front spring rate is generally used for the front on 0 degrees banked (flat) track.
What do you mean by tendency to push if there is no difference of 250 lbs between front and rear? Does the rear end tend to squat?

What is the stock spring rates on 05 SRT-10's?
 

Fast Freddy

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i think that the greater the spring rate between the front and the rear of car the more tendency the car has to push, IE: acr suspension. the stock viper suspension would have more of a tendency to be loose as a result of a softer spring rate in the rear. somebody correct be if i am wrong. but thats how the cars feel to me. personally i like the stiff spring rate on the rear of my acr. it gives you more control and stability at top speed and when negotiating corners at 150+ mph. if anything i would like to put 700 lb springs in the front to take some push out of the car. this would be straight out track tight. lower the car one inch and dial in some negative camber front and rear with slicks and you will pull 'G' loads liike a comp coupe in the turns :eek:
 

Viper X

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Good question. I would like to know the spring rates on the SRT-10 too. I'll check the service manual.

I just pulled the 1100 pound springs out of the rear of my 01 ACR - got tired of hitting my head on the ceiling. Went with 850s. Still plenty firm. Left the fronts alone. We will be at the track this weekend to check it out.

Planning on Motons for the rear of my SRT-10 and may change the springs, but not too stiff, car is not fun to drive with the springs too stiff, just want better handling and to get rid of the nasty SRT-10 "bump steer".
 

Skip White

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I must say from trial and error, the 700's in the front, and 800 in the rear is the ticket. Never go below this in my opinion. As far as the best springs in the world, Hyperco first choice, no doubt, Eibach second.

If you plan to track the car, I guess a bit more, but for street the above will give the perfect ride. Adjusting the valving on the Motons or what ever you have, will fine tune the ride, but going to low on spring rate, only makes for a sloppy driving car. You would be surprized that going to a stiffer spring will often give a better ride. Soft springs are compressed into a range when hitting bumps in the road, that make them very harsh. Think about it for a moment. Take your everyday family car, and load four people into it, well the first thing you notice is the car my be a bit more stable, but it rides very ******* the bumps, as you are no longer in the spings optimal ride position. The factory has set the springs up on the car for optimal ride, considering between one and two passangers. A half ton pickup truck will actually ride a bit better with some weight in the back, as those springs are most optimal with X amount of weight on them. This is exactly what happens when we go to low on the spring rate. The compression and dampening in the shocks has a simualar effect. Spring and valving, and the car's weight must be tuned, and have little room for error.

Make sure and order the size spring the coilover is intended to run. If you don't you can't adjust the coilover properly without altering the piston travel. I do believe that a longer spring can travel more distance without changing it's lb rate as much as shorter spring, but the body of the coilover dictates how long of a spring you can use.
 

Kai SRT10

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I am running Eibachs. 550 front; 750 rear.

I haven't tried anything else, but these rates seem to work well for me at the track.
 

Skip White

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The SRT's oem spring rate is very strange. I had the rears tested, and they are very low lb rate for the first inch or so, and they become a very high rate as they are compessed. The SRT shock's are valved extremely stiff on the compression. Moton's or Aldans are nothing like this, and they opt for short high rate springs, and softer valving. I personally hate the oem setup. The company that checked the oem coilover was very surprised at this finding. I think this was set up by DC because of the risk of bottoming out the piston on the coilover. Moton's will not encounter this problem, as they have shorter mounting fork on the rear, and a remote oil reserve on them. This allowed them to give a decent piston travel. They have a good bit more than OEM. Tha'ts for sure.

Kai, I think you would like a higher spring rate on your car.
 

Kai SRT10

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The SRT's oem spring rate is very strange. I had the rears tested, and they are very low lb rate for the first inch or so, and they become a very high rate as they are compessed. The SRT shock's are valved extremely stiff on the compression. Moton's or Aldans are nothing like this, and they opt for short high rate springs, and softer valving. I personally hate the oem setup. The company that checked the oem coilover was very surprised at this finding. I think this was set up by DC because of the risk of bottoming out the piston on the coilover. Moton's will not encounter this problem, as they have shorter mounting fork on the rear, and a remote oil reserve on them. This allowed them to give a decent piston travel. They have a good bit more than OEM. Tha'ts for sure.

Kai, I think you would like a higher spring rate on your car.

So what were the rates on the OEM springs? Where did they start? Where did they end up?

What would I gain by going to springs with higher rates? Is it difficult to change out springs on Motons?
 

Skip White

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Kai, the oem's are very progressive, and are 200lb for the first inch, and rise to around 1000lb This is not an idicator of spring rate on the short springs that are not so prgressive. The oem springs are very long, and lousy.

The improvement you will have by going to the rate I mentioned is a much better ride in general.

Time to change, 2 hours max, very straight forward. Do you have Motons?
 

Kai SRT10

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Kai, the oem's are very progressive, and are 200lb for the first inch, and rise to around 1000lb This is not an idicator of spring rate on the short springs that are not so prgressive. The oem springs are very long, and lousy.

The improvement you will have by going to the rate I mentioned is a much better ride in general.

Time to change, 2 hours max, very straight forward. Do you have Motons?

Yes. Moton Club sports.
I'm actually very happy with the current ride both on the street and track, but I'm a bit of a tinkerer, so I'm always looking for ways to improve things.
 

Viper X

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Hey Skip, Kai and group,

I just had a set of Moton Motor Sport Shocks installed in my SRT with 650 front and 750 rears - Eibachs. I've been experimenting the last couple of days with the adjustment but haven't found a decent "street" ride yet.

It is very likely that this setup would work well at the track, but it's a bit stiff on the street, especially the front. Hit a large bump at freeway speeds at these spring rates and you will regret it - I have. I'll keep trying various settings with the Motons, as they are very adjustable. If I can't get it reasonably comfortable for the street, I'll likely switch to 550 fronts and see how that works.

With today's better, more adjustable shocks, I'm not sure you need super stiff springs like you might have just 4 - 5 years ago, but I'm relatively new to the Viper suspension area and continuing to learn

I guess one could have several sets of springs at different rates and change them prior to a track event when you are mounting your track tires. I changed the 1100 lb rear springs out of my GTS to 850's in about 1.5 hours. Very straight forward. After doing it, I could do them now in about 45 minutes.

I'd really like spring rates that are somewhere in the middle, where I don't have to change them but can simply adjust the shocks lighter for the street and firmer for the track. This sounds like what Kai is running.

Dan
 
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INSOMNIAC

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I just had a set of Moton Motor Sport Shocks installed in my SRT with 650 front and 750 rears - Eibachs.

Did you really get the Moton Motorsport Coilovers ($5,800 - $9,940), not the Moton Clubsport Coilovers (around $3,600)?

I'm running 700 lb/in Fronts and 900 lb/in Rears. I guess I went a little overboard :crazy:
 

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I run 900 front 1200 rear....but my car is track dedicated...I really like it stiff, although I also was able to track my stock ACR springrates decently (the softer Konis).
 
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INSOMNIAC

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I run 900 front 1200 rear....but my car is track dedicated...I really like it stiff, although I also was able to track my stock ACR springrates decently (the softer Konis).

dayyyyuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuum

How is your back?
 

Viper X

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Insomniac,

Yep, got the Motorsports. They are more adjustable than the Clubsports.

Dan
 
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INSOMNIAC

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Insomniac,

Yep, got the Motorsports. They are more adjustable than the Clubsports.

Dan

Wow! Which Motorsports did you get? Did you get the 2 way, 3 way or 4 way adjustable Moton Motorsports?
15 adjustment levels vs 7 adjustment levels of the Club Sports....
 

repiv

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I am also running Moton Clubsports w/ Eibachs, 550-front, 750-rear, seems to be a good balance between street drivability and track usefulness.
 

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