fuel pump replacement question

Scarlet O.

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My 98 gts with 17k miles on it hasn't been starting on the first try. Sometimes it takes up to three cranks for it to start. I took it to the dealership i use in Pa and they said it was the fuel pump. So I had them quote me a price on replacing it and they said that they would have to charge me for the pump, labor (approx 800.+) and also almost 1000. more for having to make an access door to the gas tank to get to the fuel pump. Has anyone else had this done? I'm not very familiar with the mechanics of my viper so I would like to get some advice.
Thanks, Scarlet O. :(
 

Jack B

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There is a little [******] flying. The pump is easy to repalce in the GTS, the RT is the tough one. The flat rate cannot be more than 1-1/2 hours.

Pull the carpet off
remove the access panel
break the return line and breather line
unscrew the bottle top
remove the bottle and replace with new bottle

You cannot buy a repalcement pump from DC, you have to buy the whole bottle. If you are creative you can change the pump and replace it with a 255 liter pump for a Mustang 5.0
 

VPRVENM97

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Almost 1,000 bucks! That's kind of steep. I had to replace the fuel pump module in my 97 at around 12,000 miles. I paid $392.50 (List was $524.00 - VCA discount) for the module and my Viper Tech charged $150 for labor. That's no where near $1,000. Isn't it great how you have to spend hundreds of dollars because a $5 check valve stopped working? While you're at it, change the fuel filter too. That's about a $35. part.

It might be worth it for you to take a road trip and bring it up the the Wizard.

Part # 501154-AB MODUL KIT 14067004
 

GTSnake

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That price sounds way too high. It's a relatively simple procedure. Sounds like there's a Viper tax on top of the Viper tax.
 

Lee00blacksilverGTS

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I would like to add that I talked to Scarlet this afternoon and there may be another answer, her car is a 98 with 17,000 miles and is on the original battery. She goes up to 3 weeks at a time before starting it, she does not use a battery tender or any other charger. Would we agree she should put an optima in and get a battery tender before she starts to worry about the fuel pump? AND can any of you experts add to the diagnostic test as to whether a fuel pump is going bad?
 

ViperJohn

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When I suspected my fuel pump I went to Advance Auto and bought a fuel pressure tester ($40). There is a shrader valve on the passenger side of the intake. I hooked up the tested there, removed my cowl and taped the gauge to my windshield. This enabled me to monitor my fuel pressure while driving the car.

I remember reading a tip in Viper magazine regarding what to do if you haven't started your car for a while. The recommendation was to turn the key to the on position and turn back off. Repeat three times before starting the car. The fuel pump runs for about three seconds each time you turn the car on (the quick buzzing sound).

If she plans on bringing the car to the crab feast, I could bring my pressure tester with me and we could check it out there.
 

Joseph Dell

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F the optima... Get a regular battery (interstate or walmart) and see if the problem goes away. Like everyone said, changing the pump on an RT is a PITA. 1k extra for that is a bargain. And I have done it 5 times. Hopefully never a 6th.b. Dirty. Messy. Tight. PITA.

But check the battery first and if you really need a pump, get a warlboro (sp??) 255lph and you are golden.

JD
 

Lee00blacksilverGTS

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When I suspected my fuel pump I went to Advance Auto and bought a fuel pressure tester ($40). There is a shrader valve on the passenger side of the intake. I hooked up the tested there, removed my cowl and taped the gauge to my windshield. This enabled me to monitor my fuel pressure while driving the car.

I remember reading a tip in Viper magazine regarding what to do if you haven't started your car for a while. The recommendation was to turn the key to the on position and turn back off. Repeat three times before starting the car. The fuel pump runs for about three seconds each time you turn the car on (the quick buzzing sound).

If she plans on bringing the car to the crab feast, I could bring my pressure tester with me and we could check it out there.

Great idea, she's coming.
 

Tom F&L GoR

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There is a good chance it's not the pump, only the check valve intended to prevent the fuel from draining back to the tank. The pump is electric, so usually it's either going to run or it's not going to run.

Even when working properly, the check valve will allow the line pressure to fall to zero within minutes after shutdown. The difference between a good system and bad is that the pressure jumps back to 45psi right away - literally - when the key is turned. A bad check valve will have let the fuel drain into the tank and it'll take three tries to refill the fuel line.

The expensive part is that the check valve is part of the pump module, apparently not available separately and since the labor is the same you end up replacing the entire module anyway.
 
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Scarlet O.

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I want to thank everyone for responding to my question and yes I will be at the crab festival this Saturday. I'm thinking my service department in Pa. is half trained or half crooked! Viper John, I would be very appreciative if you could bring your pressure tester with you. Thanks Lee for posting this in the right area! Scarlet
 

GTSnake

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I'm thinking it's the check valve as well.

I had the same symptom and it was because all the pressure leaked back into the tank. The pump had to re-pressurize the entire system before any fuel got to the fuel rails to start it.

After I replaced my fuel system and added a check valve it started instantly.
 

GTSnake

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GTSnake, how did you add a check valve? Thanks.

I changed my entire fuel system. So I installed larger lines, fuel pump, heat sink, regulator and an Aeromotive check valve. You can see pics in my gallery.
 

Tom F&L GoR

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Do you know what the fuel pressure is after a hot shut down? The problem I saw with a (custom-built) external check valve was that the pressure would rise (due to heat from the engine) well beyond the 49 psi running pressure and blow a fuel line.
 

GTSnake

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Do you know what the fuel pressure is after a hot shut down? The problem I saw with a (custom-built) external check valve was that the pressure would rise (due to heat from the engine) well beyond the 49 psi running pressure and blow a fuel line.
Don't know. I've never checked after I shut down. I guess that it would rise due to increased heat but the regulator should bleed it off.
 

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