P/S pulley battle...help

X vetter

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Ok, saw a little crack in the p/s pulley so time to replace. Are there any tips or tricks to gettin' this thing off ?? I've been at it with a gear puller and I just keep breaking off little bits of pulley :evilmad: :confused: . This thing has not moved at all...any suggestions definitely welcomed !!
 

99 R/T 10

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Just keep at it until if finally comes off. Can you get the puller clamps around the center(metal) of the old pulley?
 

A1998

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I just replaced mine and ran into the same thing! The puller broke the whole collar as I was trying to get it off. What a piece of crap. So here is what I did. I took a 1/4" drill and drilled holes all around the plastic portion just above the hub so I could break the plastic portion away. I then got my dremel tool out with the metal cutting file and started grinding away until I got about a 1/16" away from the shaft. I was then able to insert a screw driver and turn it and it broke the hub free from the shaft.

I purchased a Billet Pulley from Daves Big Brakes to replace it. AS I was beginning to install it back on the shaft, I noticed it was starting to go crooked. I had to take a steering wheel puller and modify it so I could pull it back off. I then went to a friend of mine who had a better outfit to remove and install these pulleys then the one I got from Auto Zone!! But it took a wrench and a ratchet that was about 18" long in order to get enough leverage on this to get it pushed back down on the shaft. He said that he has run into this a couple of times and advised that if this ever happened again, to take a brake cylinder hone or something similar and ream the pulley out just a bit to help it go on a little easier. Sounds like your P/S was made the same place and time mine was. I feel lucky I got this thing back together without any damage. One more note: If you took the plastic resavoir off from the pump, the service manual says you must replace the O ring. WELL there is no part # for this ring. I called Chuck Tator and he said you have to buy the pump in order to get the O ring. I installed what I thought was the same size O ring from the parts store, but sure enough it leaked. I kept the old one that came out of it, cleaned it up and coated it with some O ring grease and reinstalled it. SO far no leak!! Good Luck!! :2tu:

A1998
 

Shelby3

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I hope you guys are replacing the pump mounting bracket too because it is also prone to breaking.
 

A1998

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That's what I did! Believe me, it was NOT as easy as pie! :confused:

Apparently some of these shafts have different thickness. You make it sound easy, but mine and XVette apparently are oversized and do not want to come off the shaft. It's pretty bad when the entire collar breaks in pieces but the hub doesn't even budge.

and YES I did replace my mounting bracket at the same time from Dave's :D
 

Jim Wilson

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That's what I did! Believe me, it was NOT as easy as pie! :confused:

Apparently some of these shafts have different thickness. You make it sound easy, but mine and XVette apparently are oversized and do not want to come off the shaft. It's pretty bad when the entire collar breaks in pieces but the hub doesn't even budge.

and YES I did replace my mounting bracket at the same time from Dave's :D

I did the same thing. Hooked up a gear puller and snapped the pulley into pieces. That's why I said to use a PS puller. On mine there was a small groove in the metal hub of the pulley that the puller fits into. :bonker:

Hey Plum, I was hoping you'd catch the pie comment! :D
 
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X vetter

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I'm also down to just the metal collar...this thing is absolutely fused to the shaft...

A1998, I was thinking the same thing about using a dremel tool, just was praying someone had an easier method...

Thanks for the replys
 

Jim Wilson

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I'm also down to just the metal collar...this thing is absolutely fused to the shaft...

A1998, I was thinking the same thing about using a dremel tool, just was praying someone had an easier method...

Thanks for the replys

Try putting some penetrating lube on the hub/shaft interface and let it soak. Then put some anti seize lube on the threads of the puller and give it a try. You'd be amazed how much more torque you can get by lubing the threads.

Also, be careful not to put any stress on the reservior as the connection to the pump is very fragile, and if you have air tools that helps as well.
 

crazyspeed

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This is very common. Go to PepBoy's and borrow a p/s puller for free...or buy one cheap at Harbor Frgt. Oil the snot out of the threads before use ( the threads of the puller!)
You will NEVER get the new puller back on ifn don't spend 5 min honing out the center of the new pulley with 400 grit paper...and then lubing the shaft with somthin' real slippery..like BG cam break-in lube. Take it slo and DO NOT USE AIR TOOLS :2tu: :usa: :headbang:
 

crazyspeed

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The proper tool... or Pepboys tool... has 2 half moons that fit tightly arount the small metal hub ( around one inch in diamerter) so that the tool can effectively grip about 160 degrees (out of 180) around the entire lip so that high forces can be applied.....which many times is necessary :D :2tu: :cool:
 

Paul S Lacey

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Well to add to the topic I could not get mine off either with any type of pulley so used a hack saw and split the pulley in two parts.

The centre shaft appears hardened so the saw did not touch the shaft.

Puller and oil....two hours :buttkick: and no luck hacksaw and ten minutes work. :nana:
 
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X vetter

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Update...

The power steering puller/installer WORKS !!! Less than 5 minutes. Although Autozone makes you buy the tool kit, you only have to return it to get your money back ($42.50). The gear puller I was using is no match for the correct p/s puller. Still the whole thing is a PITA, but I'll at least know that I will not have a bracket failure (installing Daves's piece) or a pulley implosion (March's)... :2tu:

BTW awesome how-to by Damn Yankee, only he was 2 days late for me...LOL :nana:
 

ruckdr

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FLX109,
Yes, must pull the pump. I have mine on the bench as we speak, liting some penetrating fluid soak the pulley and shaft (not sure it will do anything).

What fluid to put back in; ATF-4 ?

Later,
 

GTSnake

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Ok, seeing all these experiences tells me to leave it to the professionals. I would hate to start this on my own then find out I screwed it up. I would end up paying someone more to correct my screw up then if I'd had them do it from the beginning. Not that it's ever happened before :bonker:
 

ruckdr

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FLX109

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I don't know if I should try either, I will probably have the pump thrown through the garage door and end up buying a new pump, just no patience over here.





FLX109
 

ruckdr

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All,
All Done, :) :)

As I mentioned above the "piece of cake" WAS NOT really a piece of cake.
In the instructions, after step 7, it mentioned the puller might break the pulley flange, which is exactly what happened. It turns out I have access to a auto repair shop with a press. I broke the plastic pulley off and when I did, it shattered like a piece of glass. I set up the press to press the hub off using the center ring (as per instructions), and applied press pressure, more pressure, and more pressure. When it broke loose, it sounded like a gun shot. That thing was really on. The puller/presser kit I got from AutoZone really worked well to press the new pulley on to the shaft. Just follow the instructions.

Many thanks to DAMN YANKEE for the EXCELLENT instructions for this procedure. Can this be added to the "How To", Illustrated Instructions?

http://www4.forum.viperclub.org/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=791239&an=0&page=0#Post791239

Here are a few Pictures:

ViperPowerSteering01.JPG


ViperPowerSteering02.JPG


ViperPowerSteering04.JPG


ViperPowerSteering07.JPG


ViperPowerSteering05.JPG


Later,
 

ruckdr

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I don't mean to sound sarcastic, but this is the POWER STEERING PUMP PULLEY, and has nothing to do with supercharged or not.
As I understand it, see a previous post, to the best of my recollection, the '93-'95 cars had steel pulleys, then plastic from '96 - 2002, then steel for the Gen III cars.
I may be of a few years, but there are many years with the plastic power steering pulleys.

Later,
 
D

DAMN YANKEE

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ruckbr. Many thanks, it is now in the Illustrated.

agentf1, seems that Big Dave is of a mind that he sells to non-supercharged cars and S/Ced rigs. See the illustrated for his shots of stock car broken base plates. Failure rates are low, but read through the threads here and you will read about a good number of people strugglng with it.

There may be something to the faster heat cycles of the S/C mototrs along with the changed geometry of the belt pass (as well as the speed inwhich the revs come up) that may be behind why S/C motors seem to crack more of the pulleys.
Who knows....
 

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