Sealed ram air box kit w/green filters VS just green filters...

ViperDude

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MAN you HAVE to get the airbox!!!

With just the filters it felt like a big HP kick in the butt, made me forget about getting nitrous. But then with the airbox, holy crap! The suction was incredible. At first it was like adding 500HP but then suddenly the suction created by the V10 was so great that there was no more air to be had, and the airbox opened a vortex into another world!

Air rushed in from this other world, sending my car into a rocket launched frenzy, but suddenly there was a problem, apparantly the gravity from this other dimension was greater than that here on earth, and the whole car began to get sucked into the vortex hole, airbox first of course.

At first it was disconcerting to see my car implode and be sucked through a tiny airbox sized vortex into the 8th dimension, but then I remembered the end of Poltergeist and their whole house fit through there, so I figured what the heck.

I simply called my insurance and reported it stolen...
 

FE 065

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The hood scoop alone doesn't have enough area to adequately supply air to an engine that large at high rpm.. If you seal the airbox to the scoop, I'd think you'd have to be reducing Volumetric Efficiency.


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2001 ACR/1999 GTS
SVS short shifter for sale/never installed !
 
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Racer Robbie

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By sealing the air box you are bringing in outside cold air only which will make more power than hot engine air. To compensate for the small air scoop one just needs to remove the rain baffle form the hood scoop as this will increase the size of the opening dramatically. With the oiled green filters there is zero chance of water getting into your engine. I have driven at 80 mph in downpours so hard I could hardly see in front of me and I took in zero water.
 

FE 065

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By sealing the air box you are bringing in outside cold air only which will make more power than hot engine air. To compensate for the small air scoop one just needs to remove the rain baffle form the hood scoop as this will increase the size of the opening dramatically. With the oiled green filters there is zero chance of water getting into your engine. I have driven at 80 mph in downpours so hard I could hardly see in front of me and I took in zero water.


I don't see reducing the wide width of the airbox's inlet down to the size of the hood scoop with much less area as a plus.

Along with that hole in the hood just not having enough area, most any flush mounted scoop lies in slower moving boundary layer airflow along the hood rather than faster moving air a few inches above the surface. A scoop with an opening that is flush with the hood surface is essentially in dead air...


If a 500ci engine needs 140 sq inches minimum air filter area at 5800rpm, how does restricting initial inlet airflow through a much smaller hole in the hood lying in the boundary layer's slower moving airflow make sense?


I've experimented with blocking off a G2's airbox outboard of the NACA duct's opening-forcing the airbox to breathe only through the NACA duct, and I noticed a loss in power as rpms rose before I got out of 1st gear .


I've also measured temps at the front of a G2 airbox's entrance at 45-50mph, and found no indication that engine compartment heated air is somehow moving forward at speed-past the radiator support and all that paneling etc, to find its' way into the front of airbox.

I doubt that IAT's measured at the airbox entrance are influenced by engine compartment air temps at all once a car is moving faster than 5mph or so.


My bet is that you're losing way more CFM by only allowing air in through the hood scoop, than any perceived loss of HP due to heated air somehow finding its' way forward.
 

FE 065

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I see your dyno results, thanks for the link.


The indicated rwhp gain over stock (14.9rwhp) posted on your website regarding your sealed airbox, isn't appreciably higher than this dyno chart (click) from K&N's website claiming a gain over stock of 14.06rwhp when using their 57-1536 FIPK kit ...

Less than 1hp between the two, which basically means zero difference. Your website claims that K&N's filtercharger kit is not a sealed system, and that your sealed system is somehow better than the K&N kit. Yet there's no proof of it.


I'm not sure if evomind was asking about adding just K&N filters to the OE box, or the K&N FIPK kit ....vs a sealed system. But apparently your sealed system doesn't offer any rwhp gain over just using K&N's 57-1536 FIPK kit..


Besides, claiming a dyno gain from a mod relating to supposed increased efficiency through a hood scoop kind of puts you in Vipair territory...

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2001 ACR/1999 GTS
SVS short shifter for sale/never installed !
 

Racer Robbie

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As stated on my website we use a K & N unit and then modify it so there is no whistling noise that is common on their units. Then we seal the unit with foam tape so their are no leaks from between the plastic plenum tube and the upper and lower air box. We also seal out all under hood hot air. In place of the K & N filters we include Green Filters that fit the K & N Filtercharger unit as they flow more air than the K & N filters.

The original post was "Is it worth getting the sealed box kit rather than just the k and n filters? " The answer is YES, as the K & N Filtercharger Kit or our AtRo Kit with Green Filters will outflow the OEM stock air box with add on K & N filters any day of the week.

If you want to buy a K & N Filtercharger kit elsewhere we can provide you with Green Filters to replace the K & N filters included in their kit.
 
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