HELP! Engine won't start, battery terminal spinning...

Achilles99

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Well, I told myself to stop tinkering but I couldn't help it.

I installed a WBO sensor, AFR gauge, and boost gauge today. Wired everything up, worked fine. Now, car won't start. Engine cranks, but won't turn over.

I've done a few searches, some people say to remove the positive battery terminal. The positive battery post is spinning, which is not good. Any other way to disconnect the battery without having to remove the wheel and take out the battery?

Any other ideas on why the car won't start? I had a feeling it might be something to do with the alarm module, but wouldn't the car start but then turn off in that case???
 

luc

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The Jumper post ( what you call the battery post) DO NOT disconnect all the car electrical circuits from the battery +,you still have the fuel pump, amplifier and related relays connected to battery + side.

I hope that I'm wrong but, I seems to remember some thread regarding spinning jumper post and the only way to fix it was to replace the main electrical harness.( the one that include the the fuses,relays, etc,and the jumper post.)

Luc.00GTS
 
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Achilles99

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Well, car is fixed (I think). With the help of JD, I tried pumping the pedal several times while cranking. It worked after several tries. We thought it could be because of the battery being low (due to me having installed gauges that day and leaving the door open for a few hours). However, I even tried jumping the car to help with the power load, and it didn't work until I did the pedal pumps.

Never had to do this before, and this is my 5 (6th?) Viper. Strange, hopefully someone else can learn from this.
 

Jack B

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I agree....crank but no fire sounds just like an alarm issue.

If the post is truly spinning the earlier comment is probably correct, the power distribution module lwill have to be replaced - call Chuck Tatar, he has commented on the topic several times.
 
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Achilles99

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Interesting post, Ken. I remember Tator commenting that the post was tack welded underneath and all was lost if the post spins. I wonder if this was the case for some years and not others? Now that I think about it, I had a friend with a blue/white GTS that was able to somehow get under the post and put a wrench on the nut underneath.

Does anyone know how to remove the top of the PCM to get access to the nut underneath the stud?
 

pattymelt3605

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Interesting post, Ken. I remember Tator commenting that the post was tack welded underneath and all was lost if the post spins. I wonder if this was the case for some years and not others? Now that I think about it, I had a friend with a blue/white GTS that was able to somehow get under the post and put a wrench on the nut underneath.

Does anyone know how to remove the top of the PCM to get access to the nut underneath the stud?

The post was spinning on my 98 and it was not tack welded. Just bolted on with a nut from the bottom, it was very easy to replace. Cost me $2 from ace hardware and 10 min. All you have to do is take out the screws along the side of the case, its an easy job.
 
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