Golden Collection of Viper Tricks, Traps and Lessons…

D

DAMN YANKEE

Guest
Lets hear them, some more controversial than others, but all helpful. Please add them as you think of them. Man do I wish I had a list like this when I got my Viper.

SHOP/DEALERSHIP SERVICES – We ask how much things are going to cost and what we can expect to have done for that price. Don’t complain if you get a huge bill and never bothered to ask the price. Don’t complain if you get a huge bill and did ask for the price and they did all the work at that price. Mechanics respect people who say “What are you going to do and what will it cost me?”..they love people who don’t..but not in a way you would like.

OPERATING TEMPERATURE – Know what it is and wait for it before getting your goofey foot gets going.

WIDEBAND SENSORS – Must be completely at temperature before you start your engine. Most Wideband kits come with a diode light..install it and wait for it to go “full on” before starting your engine. Your widebands will last a lot longer.

WHEEL STANDS – With your jack in place and locked-out..a jack in front and rear if possible…and blocks under all four (4) wheels…and then worry.

HOCKEY PUCK TIRES – Are fun for burn outs and figure eights. They will kill you for road racing. Change your tires when they turn hard no matter how much it costs. If you can’t afford tires, you should be driving a vette.

UNDERCARRIAGE – Get under your Viper once a year and look up.

ROE SUPERCHARGERS – Have their oil changed regularly as defined in your manual. They are not sealed units.

PARKING ATTENDANTS – Don’t get to drive your car or hold you keys.

CAR WASH ATTENDANTS – Don’t get to drive your car or hold your keys.

NEIGHBORHOOD DRIVING – Don’t crap in your own nest. Drive slowly and quietly in your own neighborhood.

OIL FILTERS – Quality matters and don’t use old oil to lube a new seal prior to screwing one down.

WHEEL LUG NUTS – Tighten them with a torque wrench and check them routinely, especially if you are having fun. Definitely loosen and retighten them completely once a year (oxidation to your wheels!)

BRAKE FLUID – Gets changed every three (3) years without fail.

GAS STATION SQUEEGIES – Never…as in at no time.

DOOR HINGES – When they sag..and they will…fix them or have them fixed a.s.a.p.

HATCH GAS SHOCKS – They are cheap, super simple to replace and cool to watch as they pop open a GTS hatch…why are you waiting?

SPARK PLUG REMOVAL – Only when the motor is stone cold and with the right tools. Tator says stock plugs are the way to go and use no lube..Champion says use no lube…but the debate goes on. Fire breathing engines will need different plugs in different temperature ranges…stock and close to stock engines don’t. Removing the air plenum (passenger side) is easy. Some say Titanium tips break off and cause big damage. Want to do something special for your Viper? Check your plugs and make note and act on fouling.

GAS STABILZERS – Work. Store your car with it properly mixed in your tank and let your engine run long enough to get the fuel/stabilizer mixture throughout your fuel system. Adding it to your tank and not getting it in your fuel system before you store…is worthless.

YOUR SON OR DAUGHTER – Gets to drive your Viper because you are taking the time to explain to them how to drive your car…and work with them on your car. If you don’t, they will either drive your car and get into trouble…or not drive your car and you will have missed one of the great bonding experiences possible and they will hold that against you forever.

SPEED WAX – Does a super job on a super clean car. Provides a one way ticket to a buff out on a lightly dusty car…and is a disaster on a dirty car.

CALIFORNIA DUSTERS – Are good for very light dust offs. They do last a long time but no matter what the factory says when you wouldn’t wipe your duster across your own clean shirt..it’s time for a new one.

VETTES –They are lower than a normal car so they are difficult to see, you will find them in your rear view mirror. Wave if you want, they appreciate that and makes them feel like they too have a performance car too.

WHEEL HOP AT TAKE OFF – Press in your clutch and give your drive train a break.

OCTANE ADDITIVES – IF used tank after tank after tank can create some problems depending on the brand. Use them when you really need to.

********* – A Viper speeding in the far left lane. Stay to the right whenever possible.
I am astounded at the number of speed traps that I have passed at speed because they targeted the far left lane.

FOREIGN VIPER OWNERS – Get extra attention and support. Be generous with anyone living overseas and driving an American Viper. Offer to help them get products and clear customs on shipments. They represent us in lands where people still think that BMWs, Porches and Ferrari’s are competitive. Besides, they are far less confused than Americans driving the aforementioned vehicles over here.

DRIP MATS - Hide everything..Vipers should not drip. Clean floors allow you to identify what and where drips are coming from.

TATOR – Is not a Viper God, he is a man like you and me, he is an extremely talented and caring Viper expert, nothing more…Rob is a Viper God and you should be leaving offerings and making sacrifices.....or suffer the consequences.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

ViperTony

Enthusiast
Joined
Apr 3, 2006
Posts
7,554
Reaction score
0
WIDEBAND SENSORS – Must be completely at temperature before you start your engine. Most Wideband kits come with a diode light..install it and wait for it to go “full on” before starting your engine. Your widebands will last a lot longer.

DY, great list but a cavaet to this statement is that on cold days the sensor could be damaged by thermal shock if hit by cold water while in operation. According to Innovate Motorsports, depending on the climate, they do not recommend fully heating the O2 sensor prior to starting the engine. Instead, they recommend starting the engine and letting the sensor heat up with the exhaust stream. I'm certain this is what destroyed my WBO sensor last winter. FYI.
 

ViperJohn

Enthusiast
Joined
May 29, 2003
Posts
3,615
Reaction score
2
Location
Maryland
That's a great list. I'll add one:

POWER STEERING CAP: Check to make sure it's tight every time you open the hood. Many Vipers have caught fire due to the cap coming off.
 
OP
OP
D

DAMN YANKEE

Guest
VALVE COVER - They are magnesium, they can be polished but not clear coated because of the heat. If you elect to have somebody powder coat them, they have to know exactly what they are doing both in the cleaning, the prep of the internal shields, the application and the reassembly. Powder coated valve covers usually have the logo work shot in silver or white...clear is not an option.
 
OP
OP
D

DAMN YANKEE

Guest
RESETTING THE PCM - You can disconnect the battery or you can disconnect the two large connectors under the PCM cover. In either event your Viper has to learn what constitutes full throttle again. When you connect, turn he key on (dont start the engine), press the throttle all the way (100%) to the floor slowly but firmly twice, then turn the key off. Note it will take a while for your PCM to properly rebuild/relearn...be patient and drive in a disciplined manner for a while. Dead Battery?...Your resetting your PCM, reset your full throttle settings.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
OP
OP
D

DAMN YANKEE

Guest
SIDE SILL SCREWS - Go very gently when you take them out or put them back. If you don't want to strip out the holes, really thread them back in slowly and use locktite blue. Some folk finish the job by covering the screws with a small dap of superglue...why? Because if you loose one of those nasties....they go right under your rear tires! The illustrated have a great piece on replacing the original sill screws with a better set-up.
 

96GTS

Enthusiast
Joined
Apr 2, 2005
Posts
1,038
Reaction score
0
Location
Dyess AFB, TX
DRIVING SCHOOL- a Viper is NOT a "Drive it Like You Stole it" type of car, and you should jump on the first opportunity you have to receive professional instruction.

THE BRAKES - are terrible on Vipers without ABS, and a new hood from MOPAR is $14,910...drive accordingly.

If you don't plan on driving your Viper much...get a Battery Tender.

The mirrors on the doors fold in and out, so if the drain get clogged and holds water you can access the bolts and remove the gobble-dee-goop inside.
 
OP
OP
D

DAMN YANKEE

Guest
TORQUE MEASUREMENTS - Inch/Pounds...Foot/Pounds...there is a huge difference between the two. Always double check your spec torque and your wrench setting. When working with aluminum you must think about every torque setting as a game ender. A good torque wrench is like a good level treat it with respect. Never set away your torque wrench until you have zeroed it out, even if your torque wrench can be put away loaded...why? you can't hurt yourself with a bad dial in next time.
 

DrumrBoy

Enthusiast
Joined
Jul 21, 2003
Posts
2,612
Reaction score
0
Location
GA
GAS CAP REPLACEMENT Is easy if you know that tere's a little hole in the filler tube that you can use to pull it up to the collar when your finishing the job. Bend a stout piece of wire (or a barbeque skewer .....it has a built in index finger ring!) to reach into the tube, find the hole and pull 'er up.
 
OP
OP
D

DAMN YANKEE

Guest
CLOSING A GENII HOOD - Set up the rear end of the hood into the right guides on both sides. Then with hands alway above the NACA vent about shoulder width apart, fingers spread wide and using your finger tips..not your palm. With both feet on the ground gently bend your knee to touch the front fascia. This provides some "body position memory" so your set-up is always nearly the same. It takes a swift, resonably forceful push down to get her right. NEVER place your hands below the NACA as it takes nothing to create stress cracks on the very front of the hood. If your hood bounces...check underneath for left tools, rolls of tape, rags, etc.
 

JST2CRZY

Enthusiast
Joined
Jul 8, 2007
Posts
139
Reaction score
0
Location
Deland, FL
For those with a VEC, put it in a freezer bag (opening facing back of VEC) before washing the car and don't forget to remove it when you are done.
 

V10SpeedLuvr

Enthusiast
Joined
Apr 3, 2005
Posts
15,320
Reaction score
2
Location
Daytona Beach, FL (Port Orange)
BATTERIES--Vipers have lots of funny drivability issues when the battery is low/bad. If you're battery hasn't been replaced in 3+ years, its a very likely candidate. DO NOT replace with an Optima Redtop. Even Vipers driven 10k/year kill Optimas in about 6 months
 

All Blue ACR

Enthusiast
Joined
Aug 15, 2007
Posts
1,054
Reaction score
1
Location
Rocky View County, Alberta
OK, Newbie alert

What the hell are wideband sensors and what's this pre-heat caution??
I have been starting mine ICE cold and I mean cold (-10), letting it run until warm before driving and NEVER parking until the exhaust is screaming hot from a drive:smirk:

PS: good info thread; thought I was getting to know my car from hanging out here but still don't know what a VEC is and who is ROB? :dunno:
 

Got_Vnum

Viper Owner
Joined
Jul 26, 2004
Posts
327
Reaction score
0
Location
Northridge, CA
POWER STEERING PULLEY: Stock PS pulleys are PLASTIC and will eventually break. Mine did after 55K miles at VOI9 (and I've heard some others did as well). Call Big Brake Dave (Oh Great One) and get yourself a shiny new billet one.
 
Last edited:

AHudson777

Enthusiast
Joined
Nov 6, 2007
Posts
250
Reaction score
0
Location
Alabama
RESETTING THE PCM - You can disconnect the battery or you can disconnect the two large connectors under the PCM cover. In either event your Viper has to learn what constitutes full throttle again. When you connect, turn he key on (dont start the engine), press the throttle all the way (100%) to the floor slowly but firmly twice, then turn the key off. Note it will take a while for your PCM to properly rebuild/relearn...be patient and drive in a disciplined manner for a while. Dead Battery?...Your resetting your PCM, reset your full throttle settings.


Can't believe I'm reading this today - - just replaced my battery yesterday. (DuraLast Gold, OEM fit). I did NOT do as advised above since I didn't know about it. So, what am I 'not' getting by not having followed the PCM reset advice? Will my car 'relearn' as is, or do I need to disconnect at the connectors and start over? Thanks.
 

dave6666

Enthusiast
Joined
Jul 18, 2007
Posts
14,975
Reaction score
0
Location
Explaining Viper things to you
I'm filing this under "B" for Bible.

GREAT STUFF guys. And Chad.

Chad is above "guy." He is, well, I don't know. I mean, what do you call a man that drives a red car with yellow wheels and gets more than all of us combined?
 

JST2CRZY

Enthusiast
Joined
Jul 8, 2007
Posts
139
Reaction score
0
Location
Deland, FL
PS: good info thread; thought I was getting to know my car from hanging out here but still don't know what a VEC is and who is ROB? :dunno:[/QUOTE]

VEC= Viper Engine Controller from Roe Racing. A piggy back computer that takes signals from the stock PCM and changes them based on settings that have been programmed into a card that can be changed for various upgrades that have been done to the engine.

I believe Rob is the head Viper tech at Tator's Dodge
 

Affatica

Enthusiast
Joined
Feb 22, 2006
Posts
164
Reaction score
0
Location
Denver, CO
Can't believe I'm reading this today - - just replaced my battery yesterday. (DuraLast Gold, OEM fit). I did NOT do as advised above since I didn't know about it. So, what am I 'not' getting by not having followed the PCM reset advice? Will my car 'relearn' as is, or do I need to disconnect at the connectors and start over? Thanks.

I would just disconnect the remote battery terminal under the hood and reconnect it, then set the WOT. It's easy enough to do.
 

Got_Vnum

Viper Owner
Joined
Jul 26, 2004
Posts
327
Reaction score
0
Location
Northridge, CA
That goes double for the PS bracket which is simply tin! If and when it breaks...you're done for the day. Good investment.
Very true. Fortunately for me, Dave had brought along a billet pulley, pump, and bracket that he was using for his VOI9 display at the DC Performance booth. Those are all in my car now.
 

mach4444

Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 10, 2007
Posts
446
Reaction score
0
Location
Naples florida
I agree. one of the best threads I've seen. Great info
Will the power steering cap back out or does it fail from having the reservoir overfilled?
Any other items that are prone to failure?

Chad is above "guy." He is, well, I don't know. I mean, what do you call a man that drives a red car with yellow wheels and gets more than all of us combined?

I'd call him a lucky man!
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
D

DAMN YANKEE

Guest
All Blue ACR...no problem.

1. Wideband sensors....Sign On and read this link in the "Illustrated Guides". In short they are much more sensitive O2 sensors that we add to our rigs to allow us to precisely tune modified motors.

http://forums.viperclub.org/illustrated-upgrades/602309-mounting-wideband-viper-guide-photos.html

2. VEC..(Viper Engine Controller). A Roe Racing product we use to be abl to precisely tune our cars. If you read the link above, you will read about a VEC as well.

3. Rob, one of the great guys at Tator's Dodge.

ors and what's this pre-heat caution??
I have been starting mine ICE cold and I mean cold (-10), letting it run until warm before driving and NEVER parking until the exhaust is screaming hot from a drive:smirk:

PS: good info thread; thought I was getting to know my car from hanging out here but still don't know what a VEC is and who is ROB?
 
OP
OP
D

DAMN YANKEE

Guest
BEST ACCESSORY PURCHASE FOR THE MONEY - If you haven't done one thing to your Viper, start here. If you have done everything for your Viper, end here. The Roe Racing Fan Control Kit. You turn off your red hot Viper and walk away...this device reads the temp and determines that your fan needs to run awhile longer.

"When you shut your Viper's engine off, the radiator fan stops running, no matter how hot the engine may be. Our kit automatically combats heat soak by cycling the radiator fan on as needed. A natural flow is created when the cooler water in the radiator sinks and is replaced by hot water through the upper radiator hose. All components needed for installation are included. Installation is easy! Done with simple hand tools in less than 25 minutes! No cutting, drilling or soldering required. All high quality components including fused relay and stainless steel sealed temperature sensor. Helps protect your investment! 6 month warranty, 30 day money back satisfaction guarantee. Fits 1996-2002 GTS and 1997-2002 RT/10 models"

I did this years ago, I bought their timer kit as well. Best thing I ever bought for the money.

Dodge Viper Fan Control Kit - 96-02 Viper - Cooling - Roe Racing
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Kenneth Krieger

Viper Owner
Joined
Apr 29, 2007
Posts
679
Reaction score
0
Location
Metro Phoenix
RIDE WITH THE VIPER TECH ON TEST DRIVES!! I didn't and he totaled my car......wasn't responsible enough with 700hp.....a hard lesson to learn!
 
OP
OP
D

DAMN YANKEE

Guest
RADIATOR FLUID AND THE TWO (2) RADIATOR TANKS - Three important points:

1. Know where the lower radiator fluid reserve is on a GenII. Know where the access/inspection hole is (front passenger wheel well has a "plug"). That lower tank usually has about 1/2 to 2/3 of fluid in it.

2. Never drain the radiator by unscrewing any of the radiator bottom drain plugs, rather (and much safer and much more simple) just remove the lower radiator hose where it meets the radiator and drain into a low walled container.

3. Now that you know how to drain your radiator...drain and refill with clean fluid after 3 years. Fill the top tank, squeeze the upper radiator hose to burp and bubble the fluid throughout the system. When your top tank is full you can pop the inspection cover on that lower tank and add fluid through the hose connected to it until it is 50% full. Run your rig, circulate the radiator fluid, turn it off and top it off as required on the top tank. Go slow, check it often.

Note: I have used a cap with a built in zinc on my top radiator fender tank for years. What have I witnessed? That zinc disappears before three years is up. What would be eaten up without that zinc cap?
 

Edward 96GTS

Enthusiast
Joined
May 22, 2001
Posts
345
Reaction score
2
Location
Monterey, CA
Never try to move the car w/ the hood in the partially opened position where the front edge of hood is approx 6 inches higher than the fascia. In this position the rear part of the wheel fender actually can touch the back of the front tire. Moving the car will cause the hood to bounce and rub off the paint.
 
OP
OP
D

DAMN YANKEE

Guest
LIVE IN A STATE WHERE YOU CANT USE A HAND HELD CELL PHONE? And are you going to drive around in your Viper with one anyway? There is only one sure fire way to get pulled over because you were seen using a cell phone and still not get a ticket. Buy one of these and keep it handy.

Amazon.com: Braun 370 PocketGo Battery Operated Shaver: Health & Personal Care

.When you know you have been caught, put away your cell phone and take this baby out and start shaving. Shave while the officer walks up to the car. When he tells you you've been on the phone say "Yea, I figured that would happen some day, but I sing while I shave. Sorry, I know its weird, but I didnt get a chance t shave today" Don't laugh, just put the razor down and feel your chin....

Lets just keep this one between us...ok? But when this little ditty works for you, be sure and let old DY know. I've got a list of 16 folks so far.
Beside, Dude....you need a shave. Ladies....ah...well...hmmm...you just turn to the officer and say "are you not answering your phone today?"
 
Last edited by a moderator:

mike & juli

Enthusiast
Joined
Sep 21, 2005
Posts
11,715
Reaction score
0
Location
Upstate NY
Hey DY--Why can't I say I was shaving my mustache? What can the cop say? LOL....juli
(SOOO good to have you back here, and LOVE your avatar!)
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
153,197
Posts
1,681,909
Members
17,695
Latest member
kmagnuss
Top