On my 06 coupe, after draining all the old oil, I used 10 qts on my first oil change, gave it plenty of time to settle down. When I measured, it was slightly over the full indicator, maybe a 1/16" over. I drove home, let it cool down, measured again and it was just over the full indicator. I would imagine 11 qts would be too much, at least in my car.
Gen 3 oil change tips
- Thread starter CPPRHD265
- Start date
Ok, sorry about reviving this thread, figure it's better than starting a new one.
I'm doing my first oil change as I type this the oil is draining. I built a set of ramps out of stacked 2x8s so I could drive up on them, then lift the back end up with a jack to level everything out. I pulled the drain plug and the old oil is currently on it's slow stream out.
Question: How long does it take to drain? It's definately slower than I expected so far....
I did make sure the car was exactly level when I started. Thanks in advance.
I'm doing my first oil change as I type this the oil is draining. I built a set of ramps out of stacked 2x8s so I could drive up on them, then lift the back end up with a jack to level everything out. I pulled the drain plug and the old oil is currently on it's slow stream out.
Question: How long does it take to drain? It's definately slower than I expected so far....
I did make sure the car was exactly level when I started. Thanks in advance.
Last edited:
Y2K10 SRT#39
Enthusiast
I usually wait about 20 minutes to get a good drain. I do the filter work while I'm waiting.
PBR
PBR
Just in case someone comes along in the future and does a search...
Used homemade stacked 2x8 ramps. This was high enough to get the 15qt oilpan under the car. I can see that another 2x8 layer would make things a bit easier in the future, I will be modifying mine to add that 3rd level before next time. Using my floor jack, I raised the back end from the center jackpoint to ensure the care was level. Yes, I actually put a level on the underside frame to check
Using a 14mm socket, I removed the oil drain plug. I let it drain for about a 1/2 hour. I cleaned the plug, checking for garbage, then reinstalled so I could move the pan under the filter. Removed the filter, using a 3/8in socket filter wrench I picked up at northern tool ( FloTool brand part #10601 ).
I let the filter drain for about 20 minutes, until it stopped driping. I double checked that the gasket wasn't stuck to the engine, then lubed and installed the new mopar filter ( part #05037836AA ). I pre-staged 10 opened qts of Mobil 0-40 within easy reach, grabbed my funnel and filled her up after checking/cleaning the funnel.
I have one more Qt of oil on-hand, but I wanted to check with 10 Qts in, as that is what is stated in my manual ( 2005 SRT10 ). I checked the oil cold, and it was right on the full of the dipstick. I went out for a drive to get the motor temp up and grab some food. When I got back, the engine was at it's normal operating temp, I shut it down and waiting about 3 minutes before checking the oil level again. It was still reading right at full, so I'll just hold that extra Qt in reserve.
Not as easy as doing my truck ( hell, I don't even need to use a jack or ramps ) but not too much of a pain.
Used homemade stacked 2x8 ramps. This was high enough to get the 15qt oilpan under the car. I can see that another 2x8 layer would make things a bit easier in the future, I will be modifying mine to add that 3rd level before next time. Using my floor jack, I raised the back end from the center jackpoint to ensure the care was level. Yes, I actually put a level on the underside frame to check
Using a 14mm socket, I removed the oil drain plug. I let it drain for about a 1/2 hour. I cleaned the plug, checking for garbage, then reinstalled so I could move the pan under the filter. Removed the filter, using a 3/8in socket filter wrench I picked up at northern tool ( FloTool brand part #10601 ).
I let the filter drain for about 20 minutes, until it stopped driping. I double checked that the gasket wasn't stuck to the engine, then lubed and installed the new mopar filter ( part #05037836AA ). I pre-staged 10 opened qts of Mobil 0-40 within easy reach, grabbed my funnel and filled her up after checking/cleaning the funnel.
I have one more Qt of oil on-hand, but I wanted to check with 10 Qts in, as that is what is stated in my manual ( 2005 SRT10 ). I checked the oil cold, and it was right on the full of the dipstick. I went out for a drive to get the motor temp up and grab some food. When I got back, the engine was at it's normal operating temp, I shut it down and waiting about 3 minutes before checking the oil level again. It was still reading right at full, so I'll just hold that extra Qt in reserve.
Not as easy as doing my truck ( hell, I don't even need to use a jack or ramps ) but not too much of a pain.
Racer Robbie
Enthusiast
Hi
Can you post the DC Bulletin that states that 2003 vipers are to change from 10w-30 to 0-40 oil. I have not seen this anywhere and would like to see it in writing on DC paperwork. I am not doubting your word. I just want to be on the same side.
Alldata stills calls for 10w-30
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2003 Dodge Viper SRT-10 V10-8.3L VIN Z Top - Vehicle
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Maintenance.
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Fluids..
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Engine Oil...
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Specifications....
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Fluid Type Specifications.
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Notes Fluid Type Specifications
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API SERVICE GRADE CERTIFIED
DaimlerChrysler Corporation recommends a fully synthetic API certified engine oil of the proper viscosity grade for refill. Viper engine factory fill is Mobil 1 10W-30 .
SAE VISCOSITY
An SAE viscosity grade is used to specify the viscosity of engine oil. Use only engine oils with multiple viscosities such as 5W-30 or 10W-30 . These are specified with a dual SAE viscosity grade which indicates the cold-to-hot temperature viscosity range. Select an engine oil that is best suited to your particular temperature range and variation.
Synthetic Oils
The Viper engine comes from the factory with Mobil 1 synthetic engine oil. A full synthetic API certified engine oil of the proper viscosity grade is recommended for refill.
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Fast Too
Enthusiast
I only know of the jack points along the sides of the car, where is the center jack point in the rear? Please don't tell me its in the center, that would be obvious
i think im going to run 10-40 seeing as how its spring/summer time and its hotter outside. That 0-40 weight seems like it would be good to use when its fairly cold out and on cold starts the oil would be as thin as possible to start with
fqberful
Enthusiast
Here in FL where it's very warm most of the time I use Mobil-1 15-50. I always have good oil pressure even after some spirited driving on a hot day. Probably can't do that where it's cold. Engine runs a lot quieter than with 0-40 as well.
Tip #2, ALWAYS pre-fill the oil filter giving it time to wick up the oil and try to get it at least 75%+ full. This will minimize the time it takes to get full oil pressure to the engine and not have to rely on film strength for protection. Worst case it won't hurt, best case it'll provide many, many more miles of enjoyment with way less wear and tear on internal parts.
Tip #2, ALWAYS pre-fill the oil filter giving it time to wick up the oil and try to get it at least 75%+ full. This will minimize the time it takes to get full oil pressure to the engine and not have to rely on film strength for protection. Worst case it won't hurt, best case it'll provide many, many more miles of enjoyment with way less wear and tear on internal parts.
ROCKET62
Has Left the Room!
Has anybody used any of the "oil suckers" where you put a tube down the oil dipstick hole. Seems to be a very, very clean, easy way to change oil that would make my life a lot easier with a lowered Viper. There are two versions - one that connects to an air compressor and one that is a hand pump design.
That or a 4 post lift - which might be a harder mod to hide from the "war department" also know as my wife
.
That or a 4 post lift - which might be a harder mod to hide from the "war department" also know as my wife
.Dawg2Snake
Enthusiast
This is a very helpful thread. Thanks to all of you.
I had a dealership change my oil last week because I needed warranty service on a window regulator.
I checked my invoice and they used Mobil 1 10W-30 (10 quarts at $6.90/qt). They also used oil filter part # 5281090.
I am wondering whether there is any value to changing out to 0W-40 now, or wait until I change the oil myself next time. I don't need the lower cold viscosity (in AZ), but with the high temps here the greater high temp viscosity seems like a smart benefit.
I had a dealership change my oil last week because I needed warranty service on a window regulator.
I checked my invoice and they used Mobil 1 10W-30 (10 quarts at $6.90/qt). They also used oil filter part # 5281090.
I am wondering whether there is any value to changing out to 0W-40 now, or wait until I change the oil myself next time. I don't need the lower cold viscosity (in AZ), but with the high temps here the greater high temp viscosity seems like a smart benefit.
10/30 is not the right oil for the Viper.
Bring the car back and demand they put the right stuff in it.
The fact they put the wrong oil in the car tells me this would be a dealer I would avoid or have a long talk with the service manager.
Bring the car back and demand they put the right stuff in it.
The fact they put the wrong oil in the car tells me this would be a dealer I would avoid or have a long talk with the service manager.
Dawg2Snake
Enthusiast
Proper oil weight
I looked at my invoices from both Earnhardt and Bill Luke Dodge, and both dealers put 10w-30 in my car. When I have changed my own oil, I use 0w-40.
Given the AZ heat, I am wondering whether the 15w-50 suggested by the Florida Viper owner may be even more appropriate. Anyone else care to voice their expert (or not) opinions?
TIA
I looked at my invoices from both Earnhardt and Bill Luke Dodge, and both dealers put 10w-30 in my car. When I have changed my own oil, I use 0w-40.
Given the AZ heat, I am wondering whether the 15w-50 suggested by the Florida Viper owner may be even more appropriate. Anyone else care to voice their expert (or not) opinions?
TIA
I would use 0W-40 like Dodge specifies.
Anything else is probably experimentation at best without an oil analysis.
I'm in Socal where the temps are probably close to yours, but most likely hotter than Florida in the Summer.
I don't plan on running anything other than Mobil 1 0W-40 in this car.
15w-50 IF i were to track it, but for normal street driving, why use anything else?
Tim
Seriously is anyone finding clear, conclusive evidence that the factory fill is unable to satisfy engine protection at these temperatures? I would only think after a thorough oil analysis providing conclusive results would I want to change from 0W-40.
Anything else is probably experimentation at best without an oil analysis.
I'm in Socal where the temps are probably close to yours, but most likely hotter than Florida in the Summer.
I don't plan on running anything other than Mobil 1 0W-40 in this car.
15w-50 IF i were to track it, but for normal street driving, why use anything else?
Tim
Seriously is anyone finding clear, conclusive evidence that the factory fill is unable to satisfy engine protection at these temperatures? I would only think after a thorough oil analysis providing conclusive results would I want to change from 0W-40.
DavidSB
Enthusiast
Rocket62,
I wouldn't recommend an "oil sucker". You're not changing the oil filter and the approximately one quart of oil in it and our SRT-10's have a magnetic drain plug tip that should be checked and cleaned at every oil change.
I wouldn't recommend an "oil sucker". You're not changing the oil filter and the approximately one quart of oil in it and our SRT-10's have a magnetic drain plug tip that should be checked and cleaned at every oil change.
I don't recommend them either except for other jobs such as power steering flushes, etc.
The added benefit of getting underneath the car to actually pull the oil plug and filter forces you to actually see the underside of the car, thus allowing other parts of the vehicle to be observed.
You might find another problem while pulling the oil plug that you wouldn't otherwise.
Tim
The added benefit of getting underneath the car to actually pull the oil plug and filter forces you to actually see the underside of the car, thus allowing other parts of the vehicle to be observed.
You might find another problem while pulling the oil plug that you wouldn't otherwise.
Tim
yeah ... well I couldn't find ANY 50weight at 3 different places that I checked. I found Mobil 1 0.40 so I just bought 12 of them because I got a slightly better deal. $6.20/qt
I just feel like in the hot months Id rather have a 10-40 or even 50 ..... oh well though. I guess you cant go wrong with the 0-40 since dodge recommends it. My local dealer didnt have the mopar PERFORMANCE filter, but I took the part number I got from this thread and I ordered 3 of them. Just a heads up for people ..... they said that the mopar performance filter is going to be on national backorder soon.
I just feel like in the hot months Id rather have a 10-40 or even 50 ..... oh well though. I guess you cant go wrong with the 0-40 since dodge recommends it. My local dealer didnt have the mopar PERFORMANCE filter, but I took the part number I got from this thread and I ordered 3 of them. Just a heads up for people ..... they said that the mopar performance filter is going to be on national backorder soon.
fqberful
Enthusiast
I buy Mobil-1 15w50 at WallyWorld in the 5 qt jugs for somewhere between $17.50 and $22.00 depending on whether or not it's on sale. Sometimes they don't even have it. Even at the non-sale price it's a bargain and I stock up.
I've had several engine builders including John Lingenfelter himself [ may he rest in peace ] tell me that 15w50 was appropriate and recommended with his engines in FL. I've had a couple. If it's good enough for him then it's good enough for the Viper as well. I've run this in several other cars / trucks and had ZERO engine lubrication related issues.
I've had several engine builders including John Lingenfelter himself [ may he rest in peace ] tell me that 15w50 was appropriate and recommended with his engines in FL. I've had a couple. If it's good enough for him then it's good enough for the Viper as well. I've run this in several other cars / trucks and had ZERO engine lubrication related issues.
How do you guys change the oil?? It's easy if you have a hoist but putting the car on ramps isn't it a pain in the a$$??? I need to change the oil on my bad boy pretty quick here before I bring it out, have 03, bought the 0W40 Mobil1, and Viper filter, the oil was $8.59/litre and the filter was $17 with taxes!!! Ahh it's great to live in CANADA!!!! We always seem to get bent over!!!!
Flexx91
Viper Owner
Not entirely correct. 10w-30 is the factory fill for '04 and older Vipers. Factory fill was changed to 0w-40 for '05 and newer. The dealership that added 10w-30 to an '06 went against the factory fill requirement and what is listed on the filler cap. I personally would have them refill with 0w-40.
Make some custom ramps to get the front up enough to do the job. I used planks of 2x8x10s, cut at a steep angle then stacked & screwed together... Pictures speak 1K words, I know:
Plank Ramp
I plan on adding a 3rd level to make it just a bit easier the next time. And remember you'll need to jack up the rear to make it all level for a good drain.
Oh and ***...everyone on here seems to have an opinion on what to run...on my car last year when I bought it with 1200 miles, 03 SRT, I put in Mobil1 10w30, I bought this time around 0w40, I don't know the 0w40 is soooo expensive in Canada, I don't mind spending the $$ if there is a benefit but if not???????????
Dawg2Snake
Enthusiast
08' part number is 5038041AA... but don't tell anyone...just order them from me
Is one filter superior to the other? In other words, should I purchase the 5038041AA or the 05037836AA for my '06?
How do I order them through you?
Thanks!!
The 08 filter is different the the 03-06 filter.
Originally on our 03-06 Vipers it had a Standard black oil filter, same one used on trucks, grand cherokee etc. Then they came out with the Performance filter, it is white and says Viper on it. It is supposed to help give higher oil pressure. The new 03-06 filter is the 05037836AA. Use that one.
black mamba1
Enthusiast
Anyone know why oil was changed from 10w 30 for 04's to 0w 40 for 05's and later models?
I made a ******** mistake on the weekend when I changed my oil and filter. After changing the filter and oil, I started the car up and noticed a bunch of oil. I was like what now???? I remembered that I read on here to make sure the old gasket was removed from the old filter. I checked the old filter and yup, no gasket!!! STUPID ME!!! Removed the extra gasket and all is well...lesson learned!!!!!
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