08 Viper Break-In

Malu59RT

Enthusiast
Joined
Oct 10, 2007
Posts
1,279
Reaction score
0
Location
Dallas, TX
Guys, is there a "correct" way to break-in a new Viper? Not going over a certain RPM, etc. I usually vary the load up to 100% WOT, but don't really redline the engine. Didn't know if it was the standard factory spiel of not going over 3k rpm until 500 miles, etc. Thanks in advance!

Jason
 
OP
OP
M

Malu59RT

Enthusiast
Joined
Oct 10, 2007
Posts
1,279
Reaction score
0
Location
Dallas, TX
Read your owner's manual. It's a valuable resource.

I always read all of the owners manual on any car I get. I didn't make it through the nav manual on my Lexus, but after the owners manual, I thought I deserved a Diploma for getting through it. However, I can't get the owners manual before I get the car, and I'm not going to sit and read for 3 hours BEFORE driving my car. :drive:

Vary RPM a lot during the first 500-700 miles not over 4000 rpm. Then change the oil and filter and have at it!

Mark, thanks for the valuable information, that was the exact response I was looking for!

Jason
 

Bobpantax

Enthusiast
Joined
Oct 2, 2000
Posts
6,957
Reaction score
3
Location
Miami
I always read all of the owners manual on any car I get. I didn't make it through the nav manual on my Lexus, but after the owners manual, I thought I deserved a Diploma for getting through it. However, I can't get the owners manual before I get the car, and I'm not going to sit and read for 3 hours BEFORE driving my car. :drive:



Mark, thanks for the valuable information, that was the exact response I was looking for!

Jason

A Viper is not a Lexus. There is no nanny tech in a Viper other than ABS. The Viper is a car that requires a high degree of driver skill to properly manage the power. The manual is a quick read. Read the manual first then drive the car. Viper bite is, in part, caused by driver ignorance of the car. Vipers require patience. If you research the issue on this site, you will see that more than one person has jumped into a newly purchased Viper without first learning about the car and wrecked it. One of the worst cases is a poor fellow who wrecked his 2006 coupe nine miles from the dealership. I'm not trying to be flip - just passing on some of this site's accumulated wisdom. Take your time learning about the car's power and make sure the tires are not cold and the road surface is dry and clean before flooring the go pedal. Enjoy.
 
OP
OP
M

Malu59RT

Enthusiast
Joined
Oct 10, 2007
Posts
1,279
Reaction score
0
Location
Dallas, TX
Yep, I know the issues with new owners, I've seen it on the forums. I wasn't planning to hop in the car and nail it, but I do have to bring it home from the dealership when it comes in on Saturday. I've driven several powerful cars and bikes, and respect for the car is the key word here...thanks for the advice!

Jason

P.S. I think the record goes to the doctor who had his SSG deliverd to his building, and wrecked it out of pulling it out of the building :( I don't think he made it 200 feet.
 
V

Venomiss

Guest
Hopefully you have talked with the dealership about your free 1 year membership in the VCA from buying your new 2008. It does take a while for it to go through.
Make sure they get that going for you pronto.;)

Shiny side up.:drive:
 

rcl4668

Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 17, 2002
Posts
1,675
Reaction score
0
Location
Oregon, USA
The following is a recommended break-in procedure for a Gen III car (2003-2006) recently published in Viper Magazine by Herb Helbig, the recently retired "Grail Keeper" at Chysler. While it is clearly more conservative than the break-in listed in the 2008 manual, I am going to follow it just to be on the safe side. Here goes:

BREAK-IN PROCEDURE (0-1,000 MILES)

WARM UP ENGINE FIRST

MAX SPEED 70 MPH (113 KPH)

AVOID EXTENDED ENGINE IDLING

NO FULL THROTTLE STARTS/ACCELERATIONS

VARY ENGINE RPM

CHECK ENGINE OIL EVERY FUEL FILL

0-200 MILES

LIGHT THROTTLE RUN-UPS THROUGH GEARS: MAX SHIFT POINT 2,500 RPM

CHANGE ENGINE OIL AT 200 MILES

201-400 MILES

LIGHT THROTTLE RUN-UPS THROUGH GEARS: MAX SHIFT POINT 3,500 RPM

401-600 MILES

LIGHT THROTTLE RUN-UPS THROUGH GEARS: MAX SHIFT POINT 4,000 RPM

601-800 MILES

LIGHT THROTTLE RUN-UPS THROUGH GEARS: MAX SHIFT POINT 4,500 RPM

801-1,000 MILES

LIGHT THROTTLE RUN-UPS THROUGH GEARS: MAX SHIFT POINT 5,000 RPM

1,001-1,500 MILES

DRIVE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT (MY WORDS, NOT HERB'S).

/Rich
 
OP
OP
M

Malu59RT

Enthusiast
Joined
Oct 10, 2007
Posts
1,279
Reaction score
0
Location
Dallas, TX
Venomiss, emailed the dealer earlier tonight to make sure the paperwork goes through.

Rich, thanks for the info. Did Herb comment that the break-in was for longevity of the engine or for a stronger motor? On my bikes and cars, I've always broken them in hard, and they've made good numbers on the dyno's. I had read the gearhead's (?) break-in article, and break-in procedures are almost as controversial as religion, lol. I've seen Hennessey's and MTI's dyno numbers on their fresh cars (obviously not broken-in correctly...or they may have broken it in on the dyno) but don't know how those engines will fare in the long run. I bet I will have at least 12k miles/year on this car so long life/reliability is my concern here. I will have to compromise a little here and there as I'm planning to have this car as my daily driver, so rush hour traffic may put a damper on some of the tips.

Jason
 
V

Venomiss

Guest
Venomiss, emailed the dealer earlier tonight to make sure the paperwork goes through.

Jason

Great news and look forward to seeing your pictures!

If you are interested at all in entering the raffle for the 2008 ACR contact JRT direct at
1-800-998-1110 to see if you can. Last day is this Thursday January 31st. Good luck!
 

rcl4668

Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 17, 2002
Posts
1,675
Reaction score
0
Location
Oregon, USA
Venomiss, emailed the dealer earlier tonight to make sure the paperwork goes through.

Rich, thanks for the info. Did Herb comment that the break-in was for longevity of the engine or for a stronger motor? On my bikes and cars, I've always broken them in hard, and they've made good numbers on the dyno's. I had read the gearhead's (?) break-in article, and break-in procedures are almost as controversial as religion, lol. I've seen Hennessey's and MTI's dyno numbers on their fresh cars (obviously not broken-in correctly...or they may have broken it in on the dyno) but don't know how those engines will fare in the long run. I bet I will have at least 12k miles/year on this car so long life/reliability is my concern here. I will have to compromise a little here and there as I'm planning to have this car as my daily driver, so rush hour traffic may put a damper on some of the tips.

Jason

Jason --

In the column in Viper Magazine, I don't know if Herb specified whether his break in procedure was for optimal durability or power. In terms of power, my plan was that once you reach 1,000 miles, then you really can push the engine, for example, shifting to redline with full or near full throttle acceleration. Also, in terms of power, I have been advised that once past break in, you should drive the car in a way that would simulate what it will be doing on the dyno. For example, maintaining at least 7 seconds of acceleration in 4th gear going all the way through the power band. Once you shut off and then restart the engine, your engine computer will "learn" this new driving style and will adapt accordingly.

/Rich
 

CarDude

Enthusiast
Joined
Jan 18, 2003
Posts
933
Reaction score
0
Location
nowhere to now here TM
The following is a recommended break-in procedure for a Gen III car (2003-2006) recently published in Viper Magazine by Herb Helbig, the recently retired "Grail Keeper" at Chysler. While it is clearly more conservative than the break-in listed in the 2008 manual, I am going to follow it just to be on the safe side. Here goes:

BREAK-IN PROCEDURE (0-1,000 MILES)

WARM UP ENGINE FIRST

MAX SPEED 70 MPH (113 KPH)

AVOID EXTENDED ENGINE IDLING

NO FULL THROTTLE STARTS/ACCELERATIONS

VARY ENGINE RPM

CHECK ENGINE OIL EVERY FUEL FILL

0-200 MILES

LIGHT THROTTLE RUN-UPS THROUGH GEARS: MAX SHIFT POINT 2,500 RPM

CHANGE ENGINE OIL AT 200 MILES

201-400 MILES

LIGHT THROTTLE RUN-UPS THROUGH GEARS: MAX SHIFT POINT 3,500 RPM

401-600 MILES

LIGHT THROTTLE RUN-UPS THROUGH GEARS: MAX SHIFT POINT 4,000 RPM

601-800 MILES

LIGHT THROTTLE RUN-UPS THROUGH GEARS: MAX SHIFT POINT 4,500 RPM

801-1,000 MILES

LIGHT THROTTLE RUN-UPS THROUGH GEARS: MAX SHIFT POINT 5,000 RPM

1,001-1,500 MILES

DRIVE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT (MY WORDS, NOT HERB'S).

/Rich

That all sounds good and well....but 1,000 miles is a long time in a Viper...especially in a single day. :lmao:
 

VIPER R

Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 26, 2006
Posts
297
Reaction score
0
Remember, you're breaking in a drivetrain, not just an engine.
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
153,139
Posts
1,681,566
Members
17,640
Latest member
SDViper
Top