Re-Ceramic Coating

Zrxpilot

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Got my headers off to replace the motor mounts. Stainless exhaust that appears to have been ceramic coated that now looks pretty shaby. Was considering having them redone in high temp satin black thats becoming popular on aftermarket Harley Exhaust. Havent seen anyone else do this on a Viper. Thinking it would help lower the under-hood temperature? Any thoughts?

Link below to the guy thats been doing my sled stuff the last few years.


New Image Coatings - 651-784-7055
 

dave6666

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According to Lou Belanger the coating lowers the pipe temp by 200 deg F.

Grab a latte, set aside some time. Then call him. He'll explain the details of it.

Aside from that there are lots of folks with coated headers. Never seen anyone report temp readings, let alone before and after.

Be our tester? :dunno:
 

SNKEBIT

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Got my headers off to replace the motor mounts. Stainless exhaust that appears to have been ceramic coated that now looks pretty shaby. Was considering having them redone in high temp satin black thats becoming popular on aftermarket Harley Exhaust. Havent seen anyone else do this on a Viper. Thinking it would help lower the under-hood temperature? Any thoughts?

Link below to the guy thats been doing my sled stuff the last few years.


New Image Coatings - 651-784-7055


Gonna put that on my turbo headers.:2tu:
 

Kevan

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Though it's a GEN.III, I had my OEM manifolds Jet-Hot coated.
BEFORE: 625ºF
AFTER: 350ºF

Readings taken with a laser temp gun at visible header bolts on both sides of engine, then averaged.

About $400 (with shipping to MS and back). Took just under 2 weeks.

VERY happy with product and service thus far (2 years in Feb).
 

dave6666

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Though it's a GEN.III, I had my OEM manifolds Jet-Hot coated.
BEFORE: 625ºF
AFTER: 350ºF

Readings taken with a laser temp gun at visible header bolts on both sides of engine, then averaged.

About $400 (with shipping to MS and back). Took just under 2 weeks.

VERY happy with product and service thus far (2 years in Feb).

What about the temperature of the headers themselves? Measuring the screws that attach the headers to the heads seems more like a condition of how hard the engine was run just prior to that reading, and not the migration of heat from the header tubing to the flanges.
 
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Zrxpilot

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If this can be done to my headers, I will be having them done one side at a time for no other reason than convienience. I will report the comparison results. On two stroke snowmobiles, the difference is significant enough that the pipe no longer requires a heat shield.

Snkbit, give me a call. This guy does discounts on multiple projects. Perhaps we can have it done at the same time and save a few bucks. The first half of mine are going in this Wednesday.
 

Kevan

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What about the temperature of the headers themselves? Measuring the screws that attach the headers to the heads seems more like a condition of how hard the engine was run just prior to that reading, and not the migration of heat from the header tubing to the flanges.
Because the new finish on the manifolds is chrome-ish, the laser could not get a reading on it.
The heads of the manifold bolts returned a consistent reading all the way around.
Readings were taken when engine was idling at normal operating temperature.

The temp of the bolts is going to be DAMN CLOSE to the temp of the manifolds. I'm not a metalurgist, but I'd say within 5º-10ºF.
 

dave6666

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The temp of the bolts is going to be DAMN CLOSE to the temp of the manifolds. I'm not a metalurgist, but I'd say within 5º-10ºF.

I won't argue that. BUT, it's the radiant surface area that contributes to under hood heat. The flanges where the bolts are have very little surface area whereas the header tubes themselves have tons of surface area to let off heat. And I will argue that the flanges and the tubes may not be the same temperature within 5 degrees.

If I didn't have such darn good header shields I'd shoot some numbers tonight. :rolleyes:
 

SNKEBIT

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If this can be done to my headers, I will be having them done one side at a time for no other reason than convienience. I will report the comparison results. On two stroke snowmobiles, the difference is significant enough that the pipe no longer requires a heat shield.

Snkbit, give me a call. This guy does discounts on multiple projects. Perhaps we can have it done at the same time and save a few bucks. The first half of mine are going in this Wednesday.


LOL already have some stuff there.:2tu:
 

99 R/T 10

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Hey Zrxpilot,
This would be great time to switch your cast iron headers out with some 98-02 tubular headers. Save 30+ lbs and will wool smoother too.
 

Kevan

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I won't argue that. BUT, it's the radiant surface area that contributes to under hood heat. The flanges where the bolts are have very little surface area whereas the header tubes themselves have tons of surface area to let off heat. And I will argue that the flanges and the tubes may not be the same temperature within 5 degrees.

If I didn't have such darn good header shields I'd shoot some numbers tonight. :rolleyes:
SHOOT 'EM!!!
DO 'EEET!!!
COME ON! THEY'RE RIGHT THERE! SHOOT 'EM!

(It's tough to do a wicked Austrian accent with a keyboard...)

I wasn't really going for actual tube temps, but more for a repeatable source for accurately measuring heat as close to the manifolds as possible.
I could have used the POS battery terminal post....but that really wouldn't have been a very good baseline.

With the cast iron OEM manifolds, I will argue that the temp on the flange is within 5-10 degrees of the tube, at idle, at normal operating temp.
On headers, it will probably be a slightly larger difference.
At WOT, neither header flange temps nor OEM manifold flange temps compare to their respective tube temps. There will be a drastic difference.

"Why not get some headers instead of running the OEM cast iron stuff?"
A couple of reasons...
1. The OEM manifolds are basically shorty headers.
2. Casting has improved dramatically over the years, and the insides of my OEM manifolds were very VERY smooth. Even smoother after they got back from Jet-Hot.
3. The weight savings (about 20 lbs; 10 lbs. per side) simply didn't justify the cost ($3K+) to me. I can drop 20 lbs. much more economically. Ditching the cats alone is a quick 15 lbs! A carbon fiber driveshaft for the truck is about $1500, and that trims a quick 30 lbs!

Maybe someday I'll do a set of headers, but for now...the Jet-Hot-coated OEM manifolds do just fine.
 
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I sent my Borla stainless headers to JET HOT COATING a few years ago. I opted for the higher option 2500 degree coating material in anticipation of a SC one day (charcoal grey color). Ceramic coating on both inside and outside of headers.....excellent work and turn around time. The coating is darn near bullet proof. No scratches, nicks, discoloring etc. with over 20k miles on them since installed, they still look like new!:2tu:
 

dave6666

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At WOT, neither header flange temps nor OEM manifold flange temps compare to their respective tube temps. There will be a drastic difference.

I agree with that, and would not do measurements at idle per se. Run the crap out of it, slam the brakes, pop the hood and um how does it go....? SHOOT 'EM? Just DO 'EET!

That's twice I've agreed with you. You owe me a beer. :D
 

Kevan

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PSSSST...Dave.
I like your white fender vents.

:D

The OPTIMAL way to measure temp would be to have a dozen sensors, attach one to the middle of the top radius of each cylinder tube, then one to each collector. Run the engine at idle, 2000 rpm, 4000 rpm, 6000 rpm, then WOT and take readings at each interval.

I don't have that kind of gear.
I have a $100 laser temp gun with a fresh battery.
:)
 
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