Fixed my A/C for $4!!!!!!!!!!!!!
- Thread starter jc411
- Start date
RoadiJeff
Viper Owner
It would be easier with a lift but you can still get to the two hoses you need to disconnect to change the O-rings with it raised on jack stands. You'll need a 10mm box end wrench, a cool engine and small hands to reach up into the engine bay to get to the two bolts.
If you're just recharging the system without replacing the O-rings you don't need a lift or jack stands. The low pressure fill valve is easily accessible on the passenger side of the engine.
Chipster
Viper Owner
Can someone please snap a picture of the where the Orings are to be replaced. All I see is red X's in the picture post by the original author
BOTTLEFED
Enthusiast
fixed mine before my trip this weekend
works great and was nice to have the windows up instead of cooked and wind-blown when I got there
thanks for the info!
works great and was nice to have the windows up instead of cooked and wind-blown when I got there
thanks for the info!
97GTS
Enthusiast
To all of the guys just "adding" some freon, if the system is OVERFILLED it can have the same effect as being underfilled, ie not very cold air.
Just an FYI,
Ron
Just an FYI,
Ron
I just resolved this exact issue with my DD. The system was over-charged. When I plugged in the pressure gauge and tested it was well over the red zone. AC blew hot air and my auxiliary fan sounded like it was going to explode. I took it to a local mechanic and he was able to evacuate some of the refrigerant in the system and the operating pressure stabilized. It now blows ice cold air. Don't overfill, bad things can happen to the A/C components.
Tom F&L GoR
Enthusiast
Tony, when you checked the pressure, was the compressor running?
The pressure is measured on the suction side, so if the compressor is not running, the pressure may read 100psi or higher. When the compressor runs, it will drop to ~45psi and if it is not full enough, will shut off again (the low pressure safety switch) when it gets below ~20 psi. The guidelines for proper operating pressure are when the compressor is running.
Ummm... how did it get so full? When you add, the compressor should be running and you simply add until the pressure stays in the "good" range (about 25 psi to 50 psi). Then stop and save the rest of the can for next time. Yes, use tools and the extremely simple gauge method when adding more refrigerant!
PS there is also a high pressure safety valve so I don't think you can blow things up and freeze the world.
PPS had to pick on you before Dave does
The pressure is measured on the suction side, so if the compressor is not running, the pressure may read 100psi or higher. When the compressor runs, it will drop to ~45psi and if it is not full enough, will shut off again (the low pressure safety switch) when it gets below ~20 psi. The guidelines for proper operating pressure are when the compressor is running.
Ummm... how did it get so full? When you add, the compressor should be running and you simply add until the pressure stays in the "good" range (about 25 psi to 50 psi). Then stop and save the rest of the can for next time. Yes, use tools and the extremely simple gauge method when adding more refrigerant!
PS there is also a high pressure safety valve so I don't think you can blow things up and freeze the world.
PPS had to pick on you before Dave does
Oh, the compressor was running. I was watching and listening for the clutch to kick in. Here's how lazy I've become. 2 years ago, the A/C on my BMW was blowing warm. So I did what I normally do which is recharge it with a can of refrigerant. You know those kits you can find at Pep Boys. I followed the directions and refilled it. Then for some reason, I decided to fill it some more
and then some more because the pressure gauge was telling me it needed more. Well, after about 2 cans I figured something was wrong because the aux fan (which is linked to the A/C compressor on the BMW's) started sounding like an old WWII fighter plane and then the gauge jumped up to 100 psi or so. My guess is that either I had a bad gauge or didn't have it seated properly. So I shut everything off and just never got around to fixing it. 2 years later I got around to it. Operator error and/or curiosity.jcaspar1
Enthusiast
Here is the best photo I have. The compressor is at the lower front of the engine. Just follow the lines. Easy to do with out a lift. 10 months and still blowing cold!
EllowViper
Enthusiast
Anyone have a AC Clutch pack sitting around? I jumped the relay last night and had no response from the AC clutch. Everything else seems to checkout OK. I NEED AC !!!
Chuck 98 RT/10
Enthusiast
I'm going to change the power steering pulley, bracket and high pressure hose. By removing the ps unit I should have easy access to the ac compressor correct? If so, it might be a good time for me to change those o-rings.
eucharistos
Enthusiast
i use the trigger one (got it a wally world), has lasted 2 yrs now and have cold ac for the last 2 summers for less than $20 per summer in our mercedes.
finally had to charge the viper ac today, using the hose above (again) so easy and convenient port location.
1 can of this
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10 mins and $12 later and she's blowing cold again
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KNG SNKE
Enthusiast
gen 3's have the same setup?
Phun70
VCA Venom Member
If you're working on a system that previously took r12, then the proper conversion to install r134a is the original charge volume multiplied by .88, there will be less r134a than there was r12. Keep in mind not all the oils, will be compatible and some of the older r12 hoses will actually seep refrigerant right through the hoses. On a molecular level, r134a is smaller than the r12. In a pinch just one of the ac fitting retrofit kits will work it just isn't ideal.
NI-KA
Enthusiast
Can someone dsecribe the location where all of this stuff can be found on the car?
Something along like "looking at the car from the front, look to the ? side of car to the ? of the motor and down......."
Something along like "looking at the car from the front, look to the ? side of car to the ? of the motor and down......."
Fatboy 18
Enthusiast
Well Ive not used my car for months, not even started it but having got under the car this evening I found green dye all down the compressor lines and on the chassis rail so figured the system has been leaking for a while. I undid the upper line with the smaller O ring where it meets the compressor only to find the system still had a fair amount of pressure in it! What a bloody mess I spent the rest of the evening clearing up the mess Well there's no pressure in the system now! The smaller O ring looked OK but the larger O ring was showing signs of wear!
So both lines are now disconnected from the compressor. I have stuck a bit of duck tape over the holes on the compressor body but left the fittings on the lines exposed.
Is this OK? I will have to get the system Vacuumed and refilled by a professional anyways.
We dont have the same facilities as you guys in the States.
but having got under the car this evening I found green dye all down the compressor lines and on the chassis rail so figured the system has been leaking for a while. I undid the upper line with the smaller O ring where it meets the compressor only to find the system still had a fair amount of pressure in it! What a bloody mess I spent the rest of the evening clearing up the mess Well there's no pressure in the system now! The smaller O ring looked OK but the larger O ring was showing signs of wear! So both lines are now disconnected from the compressor. I have stuck a bit of duck tape over the holes on the compressor body but left the fittings on the lines exposed.
Is this OK? I will have to get the system Vacuumed and refilled by a professional anyways.
We dont have the same facilities as you guys in the States.
Chuck 98 RT/10
Enthusiast
Well Ive not used my car for months, not even started it
So both lines are now disconnected from the compressor. I have stuck a bit of duck tape over the holes on the compressor body but left the fittings on the lines exposed.
Is this OK? I will have to get the system Vacuumed and refilled by a professional anyways.
We dont have the same facilities as you guys in the States.
I picked up a set of gauges for $110, a good quality $400 vacuum for $130 (pawn shop, looked brand new). For $250 and a couple hours time I did what an AC shop would have charged 1K. You can't do that over there?
Fatboy 18
Enthusiast
I don't think I have to get all that. We have mobile AC engineers that can pull a vac and re-gas an AC system for approx $70.00
Chuck 98 RT/10
Enthusiast
That's a deal. Jump on it. Here in the land of oppressive humidity they really take advantage of people in need of AC.
PatentLaw
Enthusiast
Ok,
Got some questions. I keep reading that the compressor is accessible from the top. Looking at the shop manual and my car seems to indicate the following:
1) The air box must be removed.
2) The condensor is located directly in front of the radiator, between the radiator and the front bumper.
3) To remove the air box, you have the three release knobs that will be removed and then the front of the air box can be detached using the buckles.
Is this correct?
Additionally, even if you remove the top part of the air box, how the heck can you even get up there to see the connections?
I am not looking for someone to just pontificate, but who has actually done this or remembers doing it.
Thanks in advance.
Got some questions. I keep reading that the compressor is accessible from the top. Looking at the shop manual and my car seems to indicate the following:
1) The air box must be removed.
2) The condensor is located directly in front of the radiator, between the radiator and the front bumper.
3) To remove the air box, you have the three release knobs that will be removed and then the front of the air box can be detached using the buckles.
Is this correct?
Additionally, even if you remove the top part of the air box, how the heck can you even get up there to see the connections?
I am not looking for someone to just pontificate, but who has actually done this or remembers doing it.
Thanks in advance.
eucharistos
Enthusiast
hey p-law,
believe it or not, i did the o-ring change for the 1st time (and hopefully only time) yesterday.
are you trying to do the same? if so, i don't know why you would be considering removing the air box.
i got to both o-rings from the top (driver's side). you have line of sight, but hard to get a wrench on them because of other lines in the way.
i got them off with 2 different size sockets (stnd and deepwell) and 2 ratchets (med and small); had dinner, then remembered i have a brand new pneumatic ratchet and, using the pneumatic ratchet, they went back on in 1/10 the time to take off.
using a pneumatic (or an electric) ratchet i can get them off from the top in probably under 10 minutes, swap o-rings, and back on in 5 more minutes. without said power ratchet, from the top small hands help (mine are not). from the bottom may be easier. (also, iirc, non abs cars may have more room, mine has abs)
if you do the swap, any refrigerant in the system will of course come out, and stink, so don't do it in the garage.
(did i mention how helpful a power ratchet is in this process)
peace bro
believe it or not, i did the o-ring change for the 1st time (and hopefully only time) yesterday.
are you trying to do the same? if so, i don't know why you would be considering removing the air box.
i got to both o-rings from the top (driver's side). you have line of sight, but hard to get a wrench on them because of other lines in the way.
i got them off with 2 different size sockets (stnd and deepwell) and 2 ratchets (med and small); had dinner, then remembered i have a brand new pneumatic ratchet and, using the pneumatic ratchet, they went back on in 1/10 the time to take off.
using a pneumatic (or an electric) ratchet i can get them off from the top in probably under 10 minutes, swap o-rings, and back on in 5 more minutes. without said power ratchet, from the top small hands help (mine are not). from the bottom may be easier. (also, iirc, non abs cars may have more room, mine has abs)
if you do the swap, any refrigerant in the system will of course come out, and stink, so don't do it in the garage.
(did i mention how helpful a power ratchet is in this process)
peace bro
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Fatboy 18
Enthusiast
Sounds like you are looking in the wrong place! The lines we are talking about here are fitted to the top/side of the AC Compressor (under the power steering pump, the Drivers side of the car.
It is tight to get in there, I used a small combination spanner, (ring at one end, flat open jaws on the other) PatentLaw
Enthusiast
Thanks to both of you. I must be an idiot or something. When I looked in yesterday, I said that there was no way I was going to get in there and do anything. Impossible.
If you tell me I can do it, I will redouble my efforts. I can see where this will be a very large thread for many people as the weather warms up. Houston is getting warm. The others on this board are right behind....
If you tell me I can do it, I will redouble my efforts. I can see where this will be a very large thread for many people as the weather warms up. Houston is getting warm. The others on this board are right behind....
V10SpeedLuvr
Enthusiast
Since the pics seem to be gone from this thread, here is a pic of the o-rings you'll need for the compressor lines. Thanks to jcaspar1 for posting the pic and Steve-Indy for giving me the link when I was searching for the sizes!
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eucharistos
Enthusiast
+1 thanks to jcaspar1 for posting the pic,
his o-ring choices are correct, but the size of the smaller one is 10.8mm x 2.4 mm according to my package size chart.
btw, i bought the hnbr rubber o-ring 24-piece kit at autozone. has the same p/n (orng-1) as the interdynamics kit in the op, but is red not blue and is "certified a/c pro" branded
eucharistos
Enthusiast
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(sorry for the small pic)
eucharistos
Enthusiast
only very basic wrenching skills needed,
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Are you sure you are not confusing the compressor and condensor? Your post mentions compressor, but your shop manual reference mentions the condensor. That could be the source of some confusion.
