Subwoofer which fits and sounds (finally)

deadman

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Some MDF coupled with 'little' bit of time and Kenwood Excelon shallow mount 8inch sub.
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The sound is so awesome that a Roseville's Audio Innovations boss was blown away. Okay, he said that this was 'a nice base for a convertible':rolaugh:. It's vibrations rivals and exceed those of the engine and exhaust. Best of all the box fits under stock back panel, just need to cut opening for 8inch woofer and add 8inch mesh.
 

certs_210

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Looks good. I just bought my SRT a few weeks ago and will probably fab something similar. Do you have any pics with the backpanel in place? Did you keep the stock amp?
 
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deadman

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I don't think you could run this off stock amp. I host 5channel amp in trunk, have Pioneer Premiere 980BT head unit and I also replaced small suckers behind the seats with Kenwood excelons 4x6 (as you can see in first pic). The sound is really a w e s o m e.
 
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HI-NOS-Viper

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Wow that is a good job. Good fabbing. I love how it looks stock. Too bad they didnt come with 8" from the factory. The stock box does really ****. Can you send me the dimensions for the enclosure you built? Thank you
 

1fastviper

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I think you should post dimensions for all of us to see.And where did you run your speaker wires to the trunk?Also did you fill the box with anything?Is it ported?Thanks.
 
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deadman

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The dimensions is just half of the job. The other part is angle cuts. It was quite a bit of tests on my circular saw. I will see if I could come up with some sort of blueprint. The sub output is really awesome, it literally shakes the whole car, I do feel it through the seats and floor.

I run speaker wires through the firewall behind passenger seat, then behind the frame part behind the rear right wheel to the trunk. Two little holes - one in firewall and one in trunk box. Had to remove rear wheel to run the wires but that was it, no removal of anything else.

The box is empty, sealed. I used nails 3 inches apart.

There are some other build pics:

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It's good to stick some window/door insulation strip on the firewall behind the box so it's not sitting hard.

Come to think of it - I did two copies when I cut it on saw so I have one 'live blueprint' not assembled. Perhaps if there would be sufficient demand I could try to give it to some local wood shop to replicate it say 20 times and ship it out...
 
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nemo

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great job and you know what i love most of all. your viper project to presidence over your kitchen and that classic...... have you replaced your door speakers and or deck also post some amp mount pics. if you could. and it looks great.
 

HI-NOS-Viper

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I am definitely interested in the blue print. There are many that have tried but none that I know of that have succeded in creating a good sub box for the Gen III/4. I just replaced the center 6.5 with a good 6.5 but the box restricts it a lot.
 
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deadman

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You used nails, or screws? I don't see any in your pics. Usually screws are the way to go. Long, ones, like 2 or 2 1/2".

Both are permissible under 'good building practices' :rolaugh: and it doesn't really matter which one. In this case also due to thin walls the nails were the way to go. Spaced as indicated and shot at an angle. First the box got together using adhesive sealant and second the nails were shot to strengthen the structure.

The blues will be coming.
 

Darbgnik

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Both are permissible under 'good building practices' :rolaugh: and it doesn't really matter which one. In this case also due to thin walls the nails were the way to go. Spaced as indicated and shot at an angle. First the box got together using adhesive sealant and second the nails were shot to strengthen the structure.

The blues will be coming.


For a sub that small, you need neither. Quality wood glue will hold on its own, once it sets up. You only need the nails till the glue sets. JMO

Excellent build by the way.

Could you leave the factory hole alone, instead of cutting it out, or would the sub hit on excursion?
 

Shandon

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Hey wait a second! I was studying your photo here and so I see that you replaced the back two speakers there with "other"? :dunno: Don't hold out on us..........
 

seabass

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Put me down for a box too!!! blueprints would work as well if you don't wanna bother.

thanks!
 
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deadman

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I figured it's going to be less effort (for me:) to produce plans rather then to arrange production so there it is:

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I used 1/2 inch MDF.

Some pieces have angle cuts - I deemed this necessary in order to get adhesive sealant a space to work thus keep the structure airtight. I am not saying that without these and with plenty of sealant the box wouldn't be airtight, I just don't know.

Upper hole - this is for sub terminal, a $5 item available in most stores including Best Buy installations.

Lower hole - made for the woofer.

Cutting out the original hole in the stock back panel is a must - it is smaller then 8 inch woofer and protrudes towards the box so it would damage the new woofer.

Brace holes (bolts sub to the firewall) - position them according your specific padding. I mentioned that it is vitally important to pad sub from your firewall - and this will affect the exact placement. I used window/door weather stripes - use whatever suits you best.

Sealant - don't use glue, its not gonna work. You need to use sealant also because your pieces will have greater tolerance, remember this is a home made kit and not laser precision cut. So there are going to be clearances between parts and these need to be filled. Glue tends to shrink. Also - the woofer pumps air and creates tremendous stress on the structure - you want the box to be airtight. And you must use nails/screws to support joints. I used adhesive acrylic sealant. Use whatever will work for you but use plenty of it. I put the box together first, let it the adhesive cure and then applied nails.

The most important thing - a subwoofer: There are only several shallow mounts on the market. I used a brand new Kenwood Excelon 8 inch. It might be difficult to get it since it is so new. I paid $200 in local store, online price will be lower, I expect around $120 once available. I can't vouch for any other woofer so don't crucify me in case you won't be satisfied using some B grade. Get the Excelon, currently it's the best shallow mount.

As for my rears - I put there Excelon 4x6. I had to remove the plastic brace which also - in part - supports the roof folded down. The roof however is pretty well fixed by the trunk so there is no real need for that brace. My complete system is:

Headunit - Pioneer Premiere 980BT
Front - Focal 165K2P
Rear - Kenwood Excelon 4x6
Sub - Kenwood Excelon XV800F
Amp - Hertz EP5

So - this is it. I hope I covered everything. Good luck to everyone.
 
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certs_210

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Great work, and thanks for the diagram!

Bummer that the Kicker CompVT 8" shallow won't fit... it sounds great for the money, but needs 3.5 inches for top-mount depth.
 

certs_210

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In case any of you can't see the linked image...

srt10sub.jpg


I couldn't see it until I copy/pasted the image url into a separate browser window.
 

TowDawg

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I know this an old thread, but has anyone else made one of these?

Deadman, any interest in making the sub and 4x6 set-up? Didn't know if you had any more inquiries that might have changed your mind.
 

Coloviper

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Looks good! I am not going to steal your thread as we finally did the stereo upgrade in my car and it is going to be finished in about 4 days, though we did something similar in that we are using the Cerwin-Vega 12" stealth sub in a custom wood/fiberglass box that fits all behind the stock paneling and bolts to the stock center sub enclosure locations as well. I will create a new thread once we get it finished.

Got to love my wife as she says if she "has" to spend all that time in the car driving to VOI11, then I better get the car in for a stereo upgrade and some Dynamat so she has a "relatively" quiet ride the 36 hrs or so we will be in the car to/during/and from VOI11. I just do what the Boss tells me to, though with the full Belanger set-up on it, I fully understand why. :)
 

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