Fixed passenger side window, now driver's side door will not work??

cyaford

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While fixing my passenger side window, I had left the battery dc'd so it wouldn't drain down. I connected the battery and now both the outside popper and inside latch do not work. There is no light on the driver's side door when I hit the unlock button on the FOB. The passenger side door is fine. I checked the wire loom and everything looks good there. Kinda weird that this happens when disconnecting the battery, but it could be just a coincidence. I'm guessing the door latch switch has failed? Any ideas on how to test the switch?
 
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cyaford

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I've reset the FOB, although I'm sure it's working fine. The car starts right up.

I'm about to go out and get to the battery in this 100+ degree heat. Dave suggested to discharge the capacitors by touching the negative and positive cables together. That should reset the door switch. I'll give it a shot.
 

uvbnbit

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I've reset the FOB, although I'm sure it's working fine. The car starts right up.

I'm about to go out and get to the battery in this 100+ degree heat. Dave suggested to discharge the capacitors by touching the negative and positive cables together. That should reset the door switch. I'll give it a shot.

Since it's so hot out, shouldn't you be standing in a large tub of water when you do that so you can stay cool?
But seriously, does that do the same thing as "grounding" the pos. cable to the frame as in re-setting PCM?
 
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cyaford

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I should've known that would've been too easy.... :(

Touched both cables together, touched the positive to ground, and even left both cables off the battery for over an hour. The damn door switch is still dead.
 
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cyaford

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I've got an idea. Check the voltage on the battery. :D
Why didn't anybody else think of that :lmao:

I'm 99.9% sure that the battery is fine. ;)

Like Dave said, it's like the EEM is not sending out voltage to the door switch. It's on permanent lock down. :mad:

I can open the passenger side while the driver's side remains locked, which is impossible to do if the system is working properly. Both doors are either simultaneously "locked" or "unlocked". Damn electronics. :D
 

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Open the door and pull back the ribbed rubber wiring harness guide in the door jamb. This is where the door hinge is. Tug lightly on each wire and you'll find it. Might be more than one. It's very common for the wiring to break here causing an open circuit.
 
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cyaford

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I just checked my '01 wiring diagrams and it looks like both sides use the same fuse. Wonder if it could be the EEM?

Besides removal and replacement, any ideas on how to test out the EEM?

I think I'll tear into the driver's door later tonight when it's below 110 outside. Can't think of anything else to try at this point. :mad:
 
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cyaford

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Open the door and pull back the ribbed rubber wiring harness guide in the door jamb. This is where the door hinge is. Tug lightly on each wire and you'll find it. Might be more than one. It's very common for the wiring to break here causing an open circuit.

That was the first place I checked. Everything looked good. Had that issue about 3 years ago. No interior lights or window operation. I had 3 broken wires. I wish that was the case this time.
 
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cyaford

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Actually, I think the EEM is fine. I'm probably wrong, but doesn't it send out one signal that unlocks both doors? Something is happening to the signal going to the driver's side door.

Of course this happens when we're taking the Viper out of town this weekend.
 
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cyaford

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Anyone have any ideas what color wires to check? I've pulled the rubber piece back and have wiggled them individually, but no light or activity on the door switch.
 
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cyaford

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The "Door ajar" light comes on when the driver's door is open, but no dome light. Sure does sound like the loom, but still can't see any wires that may be broken.
 

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Just went through this on my 2002. I think the pink and black wire operate the door button. I never did find my gremlin. I finally determined it was some sort of EM or RF interference.
I absolutely checked every wire and they were all good, but when I taped the bundle together they wouldn't work. I finally ended up leaving the bundle untaped and it works fine. I think mine was a weird freak of wiring. You's is probably a broken wire.
 

99VPRGTS

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Anyone have any ideas what color wires to check? I've pulled the rubber piece back and have wiggled them individually, but no light or activity on the door switch.


I would call or PM Chuck Tator with that question, he can probably tell you off the top of his head or get the answer for you pretty quick!
 

SR 27

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Anyone have any ideas what color wires to check? I've pulled the rubber piece back and have wiggled them individually, but no light or activity on the door switch.
Don't just wiggle the wires. Slide the loom back and visually inspect and tug on each one individually about as hard as you would pull to open a soda can. When it was repaired before, was the harness repaired or replaced? You're not going to see any light or activity because if the problem is in this area, the circuit will be open because the wire is broken in two. Don't be bashful when you pull the wires, if they are good, you're not going to hurt them. I've repaired some that were broken and were holding on with just a couple strands of copper. Also, multiple wires break.
 

SR 27

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Can I take that all back? I just read your first post stating it's the passenger door. Unless this door has been used alot, it's not the wiring. Most of these I've fixed are driver's side.
 
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cyaford

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Take back what you took back. :D It is the driver's door. Passenger window. :)

Yeah, it's the driver's side door that will not work

Ok, so what are the odds that the driver's side door works fine and then fails to work after disconnecting power and working on the passenger side window?

I'll go out an give a good tug on the wires. I've already repaired 4 broken wires in the past, but none of them involved the door locking issue I have now. I'm thinking it's the EEM or the switch itself. :(
 
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cyaford

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Ok, I've had a few other Viper fanatics look at the wires. I think it's safe to say it's NOT the wires. I guess the next step would be to take the door apart and check for voltage at the switch(thanks Dave). If there's voltage coming from the EEM, then the switch has gone bad. No voltage, and the EEM has gone nuts. Other suggestions are still welcomed at this point. :D
 
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