'09 Coupe..done with 500 mile break-in...went into limp mode!!

09 Venom

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Beautiful Saturday morning. Took the car out to hit the anxiously anticipated 500 mile break-in. Car had been running flawless since...then wallop!!..check engine light..next the funning looking red lightning bolt looking light(electronic throttle body) and 2,000 max rpm. Got the car home and immediately called the 'Wizard.'

Anybody wanna take a stab at what it could be? fule injectors?? sensors??..pretty darn pissed. So glad I didn't sell the '05 yet!!
 

gb66gth

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check out the current thread "ETC light..." and they will tell you what to do.

basically, let the car idle at a standstill for 45 min. , then shut it down and let it cool completely, then repeat a couple more times.
 

Steve-Indy

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Agree with consulting Mr. Tator.

If you decide to read any codes...fine...BUT do not erase them before Chuck sees the car!!

Can you shed any light on your driving style/cycle at the time of the problem...as most of us would likely guess that you were "winding it out"...legally, of course!! :)

Whatever you find out will be both interesting and helpful. I must admit that I have been doing a very deliberate, graduated break-in on our 08 for this very reason.
 
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09 Venom

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Agree with consulting Mr. Tator.

If you decide to read any codes...fine...BUT do not erase them before Chuck sees the car!!

Can you shed any light on your driving style/cycle at the time of the problem...as most of us would likely guess that you were "winding it out"...legally, of course!! :)

Whatever you find out will be both interesting and helpful. I must admit that I have been doing a very deliberate, graduated break-in on our 08 for this very reason.

Followed the break -in almost EXACTLY as told. Never hit red-line or above 4,000rpm. Never at one consistant rpm for long. Let the car warm up. The flat bed is already on its way for pick-up and delivery to Tator's. Spoke to Chuck, always helpful of course, and he will let me know ASAP when he connects to the computer system.
 
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09 Venom

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Agree with consulting Mr. Tator.

If you decide to read any codes...fine...BUT do not erase them before Chuck sees the car.

How can I read codes? Do I need to purchase a device? If so, where can I get it? Thanks
 

Martin

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How can I read codes? Do I need to purchase a device? If so, where can I get it? Thanks

The easiest way to read the codes is to do a key-on key-off cycle three times, leaving the key in 'key on' position at the end - the codes will show up in your odometer followed my a message "dOnE" when all codes have been read. This won't erase any codes. If nothing else, it's a fun trick to show your friends.
 

NI-KA

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Guys I have seen where a number of people gently break in the car in these threads.

From my limited experience and research the above is in direct contradication to the recommendation to take the car/motor to a load based dyno to break the engine in. If one isn't available then hard driving sessions are recommended. Those with enough heat and pressure.

The reasoning (as I understand it) behind a load based break in like this is so that all of the rings and seats in the engine are properly seated which apparently takes heat and pressure. Not enough of both and these and the parts are not supposed to seat in properly.

I realize that the manufacturers seem to always make the same recommendation but from what I have seen the engine builders usually break the engines in on a load based dyno.

Are there any experienced/professional engine builders out there who can comment?
 

Steve-Indy

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I use a couple of Actron OBD II code readers...easy to find (AutoZone, Sears), easy to use...about $100-350.00 depending on your appetite. Inova makes very good ones as well. You can get a reader from Harbor Freight for $39.00 last time that I checked. Because there are a ton of car folks that hang out each morning at our local coffee shop, I read a code or two a week on various cars...so I always have a reader in my daily driver and one in any Viper-de-jour.

I was wondering if you spun it up toward redline just before you got the "limps" and the light.

Whatever the deal, The Wizard can HEAL !!!
 

Spdrcrj25

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Guys I have seen where a number of people gently break in the car in these threads.

From my limited experience and research the above is in direct contradication to the recommendation to take the car/motor to a load based dyno to break the engine in. If one isn't available then hard driving sessions are recommended. Those with enough heat and pressure.

The reasoning (as I understand it) behind a load based break in like this is so that all of the rings and seats in the engine are properly seated which apparently takes heat and pressure. Not enough of both and these and the parts are not supposed to seat in properly.

I realize that the manufacturers seem to always make the same recommendation but from what I have seen the engine builders usually break the engines in on a load based dyno.

Are there any experienced/professional engine builders out there who can comment?

I've heard contradicting things about this too. When I put my forged, h/c, procharged motor in my Z06 it went on the dyno immediately and I drove it normally (ie...no coddling). I heard that it needed to be broken in how it was going to be driven to properly seat the rings under heat and pressure.

I look forward to hearing a response from a reputable mech. :eater:
 

Steve-Indy

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NI-KA and Spdrcrj25; I am not an engine builder, but would point out that there are multiple threads containing annecdotal information from various sources expressing the same points that you are making. The problem comes in the obvious dicotomy of purpose between most OEM vs. custom engine builders...to say nothing of the differences in cost and application (a dependable 2000-mile-at-a-time cruiser vs. any race application...be it enduro, sprint or drag.

As the majority of Vipers do not see track use, it is my guess that their owners want a long term product associated with some degree of dependability (and a warranty for as long as possible!!!).

Believe it or not, Indianapolis is not short of engine builders for all types of "power" applications(except Vipers, of course)...especially if cost is no object. Many of these builders have feelings similar to yours...but, if it blows up, it blows up!!

Since the good folks at Dodge have outlined a specific break-in procedure, I'm inclined to follow their suggestions...especially as they likely have statistically revelant and valid data to support their recommendations. This approach has worked quite well for me with a variety of English, Italian, and German sports cars as well...as well as "more than one Viper".

I will also look forward to hearing from a "reputable mechanic".
 

Steve-Indy

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I hear Ya!! Coupled with constant gear changes on a few long drives...it's a lot of work and takes more than average discipline !!

I still feel the recommended approach is worthwhile ...especially given all of the reported "limp modes". By being conservative, careful, rigid, and observant...I am hoping to have a handle on this early driving period just in case we hit the "limp mode".

What fuel do you use??
 
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09 Venom

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I hear Ya!! Coupled with constant gear changes on a few long drives...it's a lot of work and takes more than average discipline !!

I still feel the recommended approach is worthwhile ...especially given all of the reported "limp modes". By being conservative, careful, rigid, and observant...I am hoping to have a handle on this early driving period just in case we hit the "limp mode".

What fuel do you use??

Sunoco 93 octane
 

redtanrt10

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VCA, don't despair, Chuck will get you handled. You've searched posts, maybe cam sensor? It isn't fuel type, break in proceedure or how fast you were going. It was luck of the draw, you aren't the first nor the last. Wait till you get it fixed now that you're past break-in, the GenIV's are awesome!! Find a nice open road, nail it at 3500 in second and don't lift to you hit the redline. You'll be glad you have a Gen IV. Mike
 
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09 Venom

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VCA, don't despair, Chuck will get you handled. You've searched posts, maybe cam sensor? It isn't fuel type, break in proceedure or how fast you were going. It was luck of the draw, you aren't the first nor the last. Wait till you get it fixed now that you're past break-in, the GenIV's are awesome!! Find a nice open road, nail it at 3500 in second and don't lift to you hit the redline. You'll be glad you have a Gen IV. Mike

Mike, You've been helpful to me in the past and it is greatly appreciated. Thanks for the words of encouragement. Chuck gave me a call at 7:00pm to say it is safe inside his garage. He will hook up the scanner first thing Monday morning and let me know.
I read about the cam sensor. Possibly fuel injector.
Before the flat bed picker her up I started the car. The engine light was on but no electronic throttle body light. I drove her around for roughly 3 miles and she was fine so hopefully it is nothing serious. Thanks. Chris
 

1TONY1

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Mike, You've been helpful to me in the past and it is greatly appreciated. Thanks for the words of encouragement. Chuck gave me a call at 7:00pm to say it is safe inside his garage. He will hook up the scanner first thing Monday morning and let me know.
I read about the cam sensor. Possibly fuel injector.
Before the flat bed picker her up I started the car. The engine light was on but no electronic throttle body light. I drove her around for roughly 3 miles and she was fine so hopefully it is nothing serious. Thanks. Chris


The problem could be that you keep calling him a her. I haven't seen many Vipers that should be "hers"
But then again, you broke it in like a girl ;)
 

Mopar488

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Sounds like a bad fuel injector. A lot of 08's had that same issue.

Good luck.
 
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09 Venom

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Update from the 'Wizard'. Seems to be left electronic throttle body sensor. Both sides were recalibrated. See what happens.
 

redtanrt10

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Chris, Great news, hope this solves the problem. Now with the break-in done it's time to let it rip!!! Mike
 

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