Mobile One 20w50

LaViper

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Unable to find an auto parts house that sells Mobile One 20w50 Automotive Oil,Not Motorcycle oil. Autozone, **** Boys,O'Reily's say they don't make ?:dunno: In New Orleans, La area. Do I have to order from Mfg ? Any help appreciated.:)
 

AZTVR

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Thanks, Yes, I can locate 15w50, but was told with a twin turbo set up, use 20w50. May be mis information.

From the following chart, I can see why someone told you to use the 20W-50.
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Files/Mobil_1_Product_Guide.pdf
Significantly higher Zinc-Phosphorus levels.

Perhaps the Harley guys use it, given the recommended application description.

Maybe 15W-50 plus a ZDDP additive like Crane Cams Super Lube or Lucas TB Zinc Plus oil additive is the way to go?
I did some research and the problem seems to be knowing just how much to add so that you don't get excessive levels.

Tom F&L GoR will probably pipe in at some point.
 

cash84

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I only used 0w-40 on my Gen 3 since it was still on factory warrenty. As soon as Oct came around, I used the 15w-50 and big difference on the track. I use the 15w-50 all the time since you can at least get it on the 5qt jugs which is way cheaper and better pressure. Only disadvantage is the gas milage. SRT Engineer said the only reason they used the 0w-40 was for EPA. Only made .3-.5 mpg difference which isn't noticable. I see that you using this on twin-turbo you have? And where you heard this 20w-50 to use from?
 

TAXIMAN1

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I would think 0w40 would be best for your setup.. 0w40 is what AMG Merc. uses in the 65 and 55 series, twin turbo and supercharged cars. As well as any other factory TT car I can think of.
 

Tom F&L GoR

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Thanks, Yes, I can locate 15w50, but was told with a twin turbo set up, use 20w50. May be mis information.


This discussion is good and should remind everyone that oil selection has two criteria - the viscosity and the additives. They are independent characteristics.

Viscosity-wise, it makes no sense to chose a 20W50 over a 15W50. At the fully warmed up temperature, they are both going to behave like an SAE 50 and by definition of the SAE viscosity grade system, the engine wouldn't tell the difference. Only at lower temperatures would the 15W50 behave "thinner" than the 20W50.

For ZDDP levels (antiwear additive) the chart shows the 15W50 at 1200 ppm Phosphorus (P is the active component rather than Zinc) and the 0W40 is "only" 1000 ppm. Historically, 1000 ppm is still a healthy level. The formulation I prefer technically is the diesel truck 5W40, which happens to have 1100 ppm P. 1100 ppm is the level that oils always had "in the good old days."

I pose this thought to you: highly turbocharged, high piston temperatures, highly loaded engine, oil exposed to contact with blowby gasses, some fuel or partially burnt fuel dilution... could be a over the road tractor-trailer or a turbo Viper, right? Diesel oils are formulated for all-day high load, to capture/contain soot and sulfur, acids, etc that get into the oil, extremely long engine life, and high temperatures. The diesel oil would be a very good choice, too, and is easily found at Walmart, KMart, etc.

Oil pressure is not a straightforward indicator of oil protection unless the pressure is measured at the last leg of the oil galley (which it isn't.) A garden hose without a nozzle has maximum flow and low pressure. Put a nozzle on it and the flow rate goes down while pressure goes up. Close the nozzle and the pressure goes up more, but no flow. Same with thicker oil - more pressure measured at the outlet of the oil pump doesn't automatically mean more oil downstream.

Oil in a journal bearing is pulled into the minimum oil thickness location. As the rotating member spins, it builds a "wedge" of oil that it rides on. The pressure under this wedge is thousands of psi, dwarfing the tens of psi the oil pump puts out. The oil pump only needs to be a delivery pump, it is not going to float a crankshaft over the bearings.

That is why F1 engines can use ultra low viscosity oils (because they spin so fast and pull the water thin oil under the rotating part) but they cannot idle below a certain speed (because the crank will sink through the oil and make bearing contact.)

Back on topic. OEMs wouldn't designate the 5W40 oil because 1) has more ZDDP which they believe has a long term negative effect on catalysts, 2) minor fuel economy penalty, 3) more costly for factory fill because it has more additives in it than the 0W40. But again, I think it would be a very good choice.

Does this twin turbo set up have an oil temperature gauge? ;)
 

Tom F&L GoR

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Maybe 15W-50 plus a ZDDP additive like Crane Cams Super Lube or Lucas TB Zinc Plus oil additive is the way to go?
I did some research and the problem seems to be knowing just how much to add so that you don't get excessive levels.


The use of small bottles to add to oil seems like a no-brainer idea, but the hardware manufacturers and some aftermarket additives are not delivering what they should be. Some have a big slug of friction modifier rather than anti-wear, some have a complete additive package, some may even have just ZDDP. The amount of just ZDDP needed is about 1% by volume total in the oil, so a booster bottle would only need to deliver another 1/2% to bring the oil up to "very good" levels (~2 ozs). So the cost should be pretty low, too, because most of the little bottle should be just something to dilute the ZDDP in.

Yes, there is also a risk of too much, but I think this is only if someone believes "if adding one bottle of *** ZDDP is good, then three is better."

While there are still oils that have healthy levels, I don't think you need to go and add things yet. Not until it's more clear about who is selling what.

PS thanks for pinging, Jim.
 

Texas1

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Noob question...don't mean to hijack the thread but what oil would you recommend for a Gen 1 motor w/ no mod's? Thanks in advance...Tex.
 
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LaViper

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I only used 0w-40 on my Gen 3 since it was still on factory warrenty. As soon as Oct came around, I used the 15w-50 and big difference on the track. I use the 15w-50 all the time since you can at least get it on the 5qt jugs which is way cheaper and better pressure. Only disadvantage is the gas milage. SRT Engineer said the only reason they used the 0w-40 was for EPA. Only made .3-.5 mpg difference which isn't noticable. I see that you using this on twin-turbo you have? And where you heard this 20w-50 to use from?
The person I just purchased the car from told me to use 20w50. I have never heard of this weight before, that's why I was concerned. I did change the oil the first week I got it & used 15w50 with an oem filter. I plan on changing the oil every 3,000 miles & believing using the Best / correct oil for the application.My 99 ACR I used Mobile one, but it was stock.The car is was built by UR & tuned by DC Performance.Runs extremely well.Thanks for the Help
 
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LaViper

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This discussion is good and should remind everyone that oil selection has two criteria - the viscosity and the additives. They are independent characteristics.

Viscosity-wise, it makes no sense to chose a 20W50 over a 15W50. At the fully warmed up temperature, they are both going to behave like an SAE 50 and by definition of the SAE viscosity grade system, the engine wouldn't tell the difference. Only at lower temperatures would the 15W50 behave "thinner" than the 20W50.

For ZDDP levels (antiwear additive) the chart shows the 15W50 at 1200 ppm Phosphorus (P is the active component rather than Zinc) and the 0W40 is "only" 1000 ppm. Historically, 1000 ppm is still a healthy level. The formulation I prefer technically is the diesel truck 5W40, which happens to have 1100 ppm P. 1100 ppm is the level that oils always had "in the good old days."

I pose this thought to you: highly turbocharged, high piston temperatures, highly loaded engine, oil exposed to contact with blowby gasses, some fuel or partially burnt fuel dilution... could be a over the road tractor-trailer or a turbo Viper, right? Diesel oils are formulated for all-day high load, to capture/contain soot and sulfur, acids, etc that get into the oil, extremely long engine life, and high temperatures. The diesel oil would be a very good choice, too, and is easily found at Walmart, KMart, etc.

Oil pressure is not a straightforward indicator of oil protection unless the pressure is measured at the last leg of the oil galley (which it isn't.) A garden hose without a nozzle has maximum flow and low pressure. Put a nozzle on it and the flow rate goes down while pressure goes up. Close the nozzle and the pressure goes up more, but no flow. Same with thicker oil - more pressure measured at the outlet of the oil pump doesn't automatically mean more oil downstream.

Oil in a journal bearing is pulled into the minimum oil thickness location. As the rotating member spins, it builds a "wedge" of oil that it rides on. The pressure under this wedge is thousands of psi, dwarfing the tens of psi the oil pump puts out. The oil pump only needs to be a delivery pump, it is not going to float a crankshaft over the bearings.

That is why F1 engines can use ultra low viscosity oils (because they spin so fast and pull the water thin oil under the rotating part) but they cannot idle below a certain speed (because the crank will sink through the oil and make bearing contact.)

Back on topic. OEMs wouldn't designate the 5W40 oil because 1) has more ZDDP which they believe has a long term negative effect on catalysts, 2) minor fuel economy penalty, 3) more costly for factory fill because it has more additives in it than the 0W40. But again, I think it would be a very good choice.

Does this twin turbo set up have an oil temperature gauge? ;)
No, no oil temp. gauge.Might be a good idea to install one. Thanks
 
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