Wideband sensor "warm up" question

[uvbnbit]

Warm it up or not? Searched back 5 yrs and only found a few posts regarding this. It's a Bosch sensor for LC-1. Innovates website suggests to NOT warm up sensor because condensation/moisture can come in contact with warm/heated sensor and damage/crack sensor-just start engine as normally would. I always thought sensor needed to be warm so as not to damage it from the sudden change in heat.
How else can you see the O2 reading (to see if it's reading 20.9) at start up without warming it up ?
hope question makes sense.

 

[EllowViper]

Never warmed my Innovate LC-1 up before...just crank and gooooooooooo. With that said however, I have been through three Bosch sensors in three years so maybe there is something to that...Hummm.
Also, my free air calibration reads 22.4. With the key on, it will warm to 22.4 if I don't start the car right away.

 

[ILLSMOQ]

I'm still on my origninal sensor (lc-1) "2 years old" and working fine.

I recalibrated it last sumer.

I don't warm the sensor. I just start it up.

 

[uvbnbit]

Thanks for the replies. Guess I'll just fired it right up

 

[BOTTLEFED]

I've had multiple LC-1s and I always let mine fully warm up before I start.
If I don't, sometimes it won't work and throw an ERR code. Mine is about 2yrs old and no problems. I have done this on past cars as well. I've been using Innovate since they started.
Eric, mine flashes 20.5 when its warm and just sitting. You may want to recalibrate it before you start tuning

 

[Jack B]

Never warmed my Innovate LC-1 up before...just crank and gooooooooooo. With that said however, I have been through three Bosch sensors in three years so maybe there is something to that...Hummm.
Also, my free air calibration reads 22.4. With the key on, it will warm to 22.4 if I don't start the car right away.

it is supposed to read 20.9 - mine always has.

 

[Viper Specialty]

Do not warm it up. The damage is not caused from a rapid heat cycle from the exhaust gas, but rather from water which may have accumulated in the pipe getting splashed onto a fully warmed sensor. Simply turn it on as soon as the engine starts, or immediatly before cranking, as it takes 15-20 seconds to fully warm up anyway.

Also, dont be surprised if you dont see "great" life on Bosch sensors. They have a marginal lifespan of about 2-3 years in most cases, but will have much shorter lifespan on leaded fuel, excessively hot locations [after cats] and a number of other factors. For the ultimate in sensor life and accuracy, you need to use an NTK wideband sensor, but they are VERY expensive at about 350.00-750.00 a pop depending on version, calibrated, etc... However, when factoring in that they last 2-3 times longer than a Bosch and are more accurate, the price isnt so bad.

 

[Steve 00RT/10]

I have 2 NGK Powerdex AFX units. These came with Bosch sensors in 2006. For the record, I now have 4 full seasons and 37K miles on one them (5K on the other). The sensors have held up very well. I recalibrate them in free air every spring. These are immediately energized when the key goes to ignition. They then do a countdown from 20----probably warming up. I do think I read somewhere that unless calibrating in free air, longer sensor life is achieved by running exhaust gas over it ASAP. My car is running as the countdown is progressing.

I thought some here might be interested to know that all new Powerdex units come with the better NTK (L2/H2) sensor as part of the package. This just started a couple months ago. The unit is compatible with either sensor. I know these things because I just called NGK.....wondering which sensor mine came with in 2006. He told me that they had a lot of issues with the original Bosch sensors (like mine) from tuner guys and dyno shops. No big deal for NGK to include the NTK sensor...same company. NGK probably has more experience in sensor stuff than anyone else in the world. He said long sensor life can be expected, even with the Bosch sensor if the tune is consistent and sensor friendly. He saw no reason the Bosch couldn't last a long time under those conditions. Continual tuning, race gas, dyno shops doing all sorts of different things for different people can drastically shorten the life span.

The good news is that the Powerdex unit didn't change in price from when I bought it.....around $265....even with the NTK sensor. The tech guy did say there could still be old stock out there not sold yet. He said they changed the box design about the same time they put the NTK sensor in the package.

Sean Roe is who first told me of this unit in early 2006 when I inquired of him what kind to buy. NGK had just joined the game and he had recently seen them at a big auto expo and was thinking of maybe adding them to his catalog. That was the start of some bad times for Sean and nothing ever happened there. They have worked just fine for me.

Steve

 

[Viper Specialty]

Its too bad they arent L1H1... Thats a cheap way to get the sensors! haha

 

[Steve 00RT/10]

Its too bad they arent L1H1... Thats a cheap way to get the sensors! haha

I know little about the fine points of sensors, but the NGK tech guy I talked to said the L2/H2 was their good sensor. A quick Google check seems to be varied as to what's up. I found a spot that sells a Powerdex replacement NTK sensor for $120. It doesn't call it by it's L/H name. ...Being they are the same company, it might just go to show how much mark up is in these things. They could be putting their good sensor out for those who have their AFR device. Same sensor as the one they may sell for substantially more....just with a different catalog number when you ask for a NTK Powerdex sensor. The fact that all their units now come with it is a definite plus

Was the L1/H1 your preferred sensor? ....or are there much better ones depending on application?

Steve

 

[Viper Specialty]

I know little about the fine points of sensors, but the NGK tech guy I talked to said the L2/H2 was their good sensor. A quick Google check seems to be varied as to what's up. I found a spot that sells a Powerdex replacement NTK sensor for $120. It doesn't call it by it's L/H name. ...Being they are the same company, it might just go to show how much mark up is in these things. They could be putting their good sensor out for those who have their AFR device. Same sensor as the one they may sell for substantially more....just with a different catalog number when you ask for a NTK Powerdex sensor. The fact that all their units now come with it is a definite plus

Was the L1/H1 your preferred sensor? ....or are there much better ones depending on application?

Steve

It is my understanding that the L1H1 and the L2H2 are actually the "same" sensor, but are different applications. Some info also points to slightly different heater element calibrations, but not positive. Short of wire color, they look identical from the wire shroud forward, and many people have used either in a particular application without a problem.

The system that I am dealing with [Pectel] calls for L1H1/L2H2 sensors with a Band 10 Calibration, so it is a very specific version of the sensor.