Water Spots

Solid Red 98

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After doing a 4 hour love fest detailing job on my GTS, I took it out the next day and parked in an office park for an hour or so during a short meeting. When I returned to the car the automatic sprinklers were shooting out into the parking lot bathing my car and several others in high mineral water. I quickly shot over to an auto parts store to purchase a towel to dab the water off. After getting into the garage, the lights picked up millions of little water spots that do not come off without fairly aggressive polishing. Any suggestions besides a detailing redo? :mad:
 

Phun70

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I guess, either aggressively polish them off, or you could just get some fine grade clay and some five minute detailer. Works wonders!!
 

eucharistos

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hey sr98, how ya been :dunno:

i hate the automatic sprinklers, esp the ones that flood the streets

after the home rinse, did you try a good quick detail spray :eater:

don't listen to the folks who recommend:

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kcobean

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Try a vinegar water solution. The spots are mineral residue, and vinegar is great at dissolving it, that's why you cycle vinegar through a coffee maker.
 
OP
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S

Solid Red 98

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Vinegar water....I'll try some on the windshield and see if it does the trick before finding an inconspicuous spot on the finish. I tried detailer and it just started protecting the water spots... Thanks guys.
 

kcobean

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Vinegar water....I'll try some on the windshield and see if it does the trick before finding an inconspicuous spot on the finish. I tried detailer and it just started protecting the water spots... Thanks guys.

I've used straight vinegar and a cotton ball on a car that 'wept' from a side mirror housing for hours after a wash. Eventually there was a mineral stain all the way down the door from it. Vinegar cleaned it up in about 2 minutes and had no ill effect on the paint. Diluted, it should be even safer, I'd be more concerned about unpainted plastics and such. You might just put it straight on a towel and wipe down the panels, then rinse thoroughly.
 

gen2lover

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  • Step by step process for removing Type I Water Spots

    Step 1 - Wash & Dry the Car
    First wash the car thoroughly using a quality car wash to remove any loose contaminants and to also remove any portion of the mineral deposit that has not yet bonded to the paint. After washing the car, dry the car to remove any standing water and to prevent further accumulation of Type I Water Spots.

    Step 2 - Clay the Paint
    Use Meguiar's Smooth Surface Clay Kit to clay all affected paint panels. Meguiar's Detailing clay is a special clay that you knead into a wafer or patty, somewhat like a pancake, and then rub over the finish using Meguiar's Quik Detailer as a lubricant between the clay and the paint. As you're rubbing the clay over the finish, the specialized abrasives will loosen and remove any deposits sitting on top of the paint and trap them into the clay and our clay will do this without instilling scratches into the paint.

    Because as you're claying, you're removing these mineral deposits and trapping them into the clay itself, you'll want to take your clay patty and fold it into itself and then re-knead it to expose a fresh side of clay. Also keep a microfiber polishing cloth handy and wipe down the clayed area as you work to remove any excess Quick Detailer from the paint so that you won't have to re-wash the car.

    Repeat the above process until you've clayed all of the horizontal panels on your car and possibly even the vertical panels should you discover Type I Water Spots on the sides of your car's paint.

    Step 3 - Clean the Paint with a Paint Cleaner
    After claying the finish, re-inspect the affected areas, the paint should look smooth and clean as well as feel smooth like a piece of new glass. If you see any trace outlines in the paint where the water deposits were previously, then you'll now need to use a paint cleaner like ScratchX to remove these imperfections out of the paint.

    Any water spots or marks left in the paint after claying the paint are actually etchings in the paint and must be removed using a paint cleaner. Water Mark Etchings are what Meguiar's calls, Below Surface Defects, that is these water marks are where the mineral deposits, (left after the water evaporated off the finish), actually etched into, or ate into the paint. This is why the detailing clay did not completely remove these marks, it's because these marks are below the surface and detailing clay only removes contaminants sitting on top of the surface.

    ScratchX is a paint cleaner that uses Meguiar's Microscopic Diminishing Abrasive Technology to safely remove swirls, scratches and other below surface imperfections out of the paint. Simply apply ScratchX using a clean, soft foam applicator pad and then work the product against the finish with firm pressure. Work a small area or directly on the affected area for 2-3 minutes and then immediately remove any leftover product from the paint and inspect. If the mark is no longer visible, apply a coat of wax to protect the paint. If the mark is still visible, then repeat paint cleaning step using ScratchX. Some swirls, scratches and water spot etchings will require multiple applications to remove depending on how hard the paint is and how deep the defects are.
How To Remove Water Spots - Car Care Forums: Meguiar's Online
 

paul fettig

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The key to removing water spots no matter what you use is to do it early in the morning when the car finish is cool. Not good enough to just put the car in the shade and work on it. Finish has to be cool and the water spots will come off and in some cases with just water.
 

bigmack339

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Scratch x and a pad removed the spots, but left swirls......but it did remove the spots.
 

Slithr

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What about water spots that are in the factory stripes? What is the best process for removal?

I take it you've re-washed the car and have already tried a detail spray ... and the spots remain? It might be a good idea to strip the panel of old wax (wash with Dawn dish detergent or 50% IPA) and use a clay bar to remove the mineral spots, at least that would be my first attempt. Get a CR spotless filter system to avoid water spots in the future.
 

thompsonracing

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What about water spots that are in the factory stripes? What is the best process for removal?

I assume the stipes are paint. If so, treat as normal paint. I would start with a stipping wash, as noted above. I throw 1 oz Adam's All Purpose Cleaner in my soap bucket. That tends to strip real well while having the high lubricating properties of the Adam's Car Shampoo.

Also, you need to take a look at your water quality. As mentioned above, CR Spotless makes a nice unit.

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One other issue is the quality of shampoo. Most of the products sold in stores just don't cut it for me. I used to use Mequire's Gold, but after using the Adam's Shampoo, I noticed how "rough" the Gold was. You want a shampoo that is pH7. This will help to prevent waser spots. It is actually safer to leave Adam's Shampoo on the car in the direct sunlight than normal tap water.

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Here's a link to read up on the Shampoo, click the Detailed Description tab:
http://stores.shopthompsonracing.com/-strse-7/Adam's-Car-Wash-Shampoo/Detail.bok
 

thompsonracing

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Throw your bottle of ScratchX in the trash!

PC is the easiest, quickest way to remove the spots after you're finished claying.
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Leslie

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I love Adams products! I use the wash, detail spray and butter wax.

What is 'PC'?
 

Nine Ball

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Also, you need to take a look at your water quality. As mentioned above, CR Spotless makes a nice unit.

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I have one of those CR de-ionizer setups, ordered it online through Costco. It works excellent, been using it almost 2 yrs now and it leaves zero water spots - even when sprayed in direct sunlight. You don't even have to dry the car off after you spray it down with this thing.
http://www.costco.com/Browse/Produc...ang=en-US&Sp=C&ec=BC-EC22577-Cat21277&topnav=

Tony
 

mattdillon

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Jimbos1980

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I am using soft water now but last fall I was using hard and wasnt able to dry parts of the car in time. You can't see them too well on the SSG but they are very visible on the blk stripes. Does anyone know if the factory stripes are under the clear coat or no? That may dictate what approach is taken.
 
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