Over heating issues! 02 gts, 6lb roe, roe fan control inop

imabimab

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Overheating issues! Let me start out by saying I have an 02 gts with a roe supercharger(6lb), belanger headers and full exhaust. Love the car. I have a roe aftermarket fan kit that stopped working a few hundred miles ago. Changed relay and thats not it. I have read alot of post and sounds like they all focus on water pump, thermostat and fan controls. Fan is running but not after I shot the car down. I would like to get the roe fan control fixed but mainly conerned of high temps when i am doing casual around town driving. Afraid to get into it too much because heat rises soo fast. Mods were done around 4 k ago by tony armour(and the previous owner) and all work looks great. I definetely want to get someone to look at it. I am in the charlotte, nc area. Anyone know a good mechanic that they have had good success with. Also, meant to mention that the headers do not have any insulation or heat shields on them. My 94 is mainly stock except the headers and exhaust, but it has heat shields on it.

Anyone with similar issues, any advise would be greatly appreciated. Thinking of starting with the thermostat, and water pump, and heat shields. Any other advise would be great. Thanks
 

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plumcrazy

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i cant remember if its 01 or 02 that have the water pump issue. if its your year, start there.

a call into tony armour might be good idea too. he is in dalton georgia.
 
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imabimab

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Thanks, I did talk to him. Trying to find someone local...and hopefully as good as he is. 02 is the year of the funky waterpump.....i think. Lots of wires and I'm NOT comfortable with removing the supercharger to get to the thermostat.
 
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RobZilla

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Your Roe fan kit probably has a burnt up tap connector where the fan kit wire taps into the factory bundle.

Mine burnt up I called Sean. Sean contacted the supplier. A while back the supplier changed to a cheaper wire tap which is the reason a few of these have been reported burning up.

As for the over heating issue, when was the last time the coolant was changed? I just did mine and put in Roe's aluminum radiator. There are those that are skeptical of the aluminum radiators. I would start with a simple coolant flush. The fan kit has nothing to do with the temps running high.

Then move on to the water pump issue as stated above.

:usa:
 
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imabimab

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Robz or anyone else reading this post...what temps do you see with similar mods?

Can you stop and let your car idle for a long period of time without it climbing into towards the red zone?
 

dave6666

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If you are interested I have a pretty extensive writeup on a Gen 2 system mod that contains a lot of operational info like you are asking about. I can PM you the link if you are interested. Lots of facts and data supported info not BS.
 
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imabimab

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Dave6666, yes that would be awesome. Love the mods but know little about them. Any info would be greatly appreciated. thx
 

RobZilla

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I do run slightly hot when sprited driving. With the change in radiator, coolant flush/fill, and the repair of the fan kit the cabin gets too hot for comfort now before engine temps climb annoyingly high.

That brings up the next item on my agenda.... the rubber shift boot.

:usa:
 
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imabimab

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Roe Fan control turned out to be loose connection at the splice as multiple post in various forums have stated. Now onto the over heating issue. Went for a drive tonight on 45-55mph two lane road in traffic and the car is just under the 225 mark most of the time. It is 95 degrees here in NC, but still think I should be able to do better than 225. I noticed that some people have stated that the temp gauge can be off. I am going to have that check but it feels like it's frickin 225 degrees when I raise the damn hood.

Is there any way to check if the water pump is pumping properly?

So for now, plan of attack is as follows.
1. Flush collant system! Anyone know of any special mixtures to use?? or just factory recomendations?:dunno:
2. Either water pump or 170 therostat? Which one first???:dunno:
3. Install Roe triple pass radiator...

Thanks for any input!
 

Dan Cragin

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I have resolved numerous cooling issues over the years. There are multiple factors that could cause this, give me a call and I will go over all this with you. Dan 310-841-6996
 

dave6666

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A 170 stat will do nothing to make a car that runs 225 run cooler.

The Roe 3 pass will not cool any better than the factory radiator as I am using one now and it made no difference. However, if your radiator is plugged ANY new radiator will be an improvement. Here's a pic of my '01 radiator after 35K miles with periodic coolant maintenance done.

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Since you might be wondering why the aluminum radiator does not cool better than copper, it's because copper is so much of a better exchanger of heat. And with 30 years of chemical engineering under my belt I'll take on the radiator salesman any day.

I've done and have now virtually every cooling system mod you can do to a GTS including the dual pusher fans and temp control system I designed. Assuming your issue is not tuning then it is heat transfer most likely due to reduced coolant flow or possibly lack of air flow.

I would remove your factory radiator and have it rodded. Flush the coolant system and refill with a mix suitable for your climate. If you still a problem I would check/replace the thermostat. 180 will be fine but unless you have the cooling system to support it there will be no difference. Thermostats don't make your car cool any better. They simply change the point at which coolant flows resulting either way in 225 if that's what you got.
 

WANTED

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The water pump issue was with the '01s.
WRONG !
My 02 had the water pump problem. early 02's also had the problem.
My guess its the water pump and not hard to change it, i did it myself.

good luck hope this helps.
 
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imabimab

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The reason I was thinking thermostat is that it stuck one day and the car temp shot way up to 250 right away after a cuple of miles of driving. Tapped on the t-stat housing and it dropped right back down into seminormal range...

so I thought it may be stuck half open not allowing for full flow? These are all valid points. I will start with the least expensize and work my way through this.
 

wiplash

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My 02 had water pump problem. Now with it replaced I have NO heating problems. The impellar spins on the shaft which means no flow. Once cooled down it works fine until it gets hot or you step on it. Strange problem it was. Changed t stat, fan kit etc. all because this was on 01 problem. Now I know better. Symptoms i had temp, would spike up very fast. sometimes it would cool sometimes you had to park it.
 
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imabimab

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What sort of temp difference does anyone see when running ac vs not running ac on routine drive??

All my driving since starting this thread has been with ac on all the time since it has been in the 90's and humid as hell! Fixed the roe fan control, went for a drive(80 degrees here today, with no ac on), and temp stayed between the 2nd and 3rd mark the whole way, which seems pretty normal. Still think I have an issue on hot days but it will not be long before I have a 95 degree day to test it on. I'll post results in a few days when it gets hotter around here...
 

dave6666

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My car runs hotter with the AC on as yes, the fan is ALREADY running, plus the 100+ degree ambient air is now being preheated by the 150 to 175 degree condenser in front of the radiator. Lower the fan on temp and leave the AC off makes my car run cooler.
 
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imabimab

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If I run with no AC in 95 degree ambient air, my car stay around 190-200, if i switch on the ac, it shoots up to 220-225. Is this normal???? I went ahead and flushed the system and that didn't change anything.
 

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