Crankshaft damper bolt

[Fatboy 18]

OK I'm in the process of rebuilding the front of my engine but have hit a slight snag! What is the best way to tighten up the crankshaft damper bolt? In the manual it says the bolt needs to be tightened to 340 nm!!! I'm trying to find someone who has a torque wrench that powerful, mine only goes up to 220 nm. Ive just ordered a 6 sided 1 1/4" impact Socket 1/2" square drive so that should help

How do you stop the car moving? Is it a case of getting another person to sit in the car with it in gear and the foot brake on, or is there another way?
Thanks
Mark.

 

[Black Moon]

Block the wheels and put the car in reverse. Get a long breaker bar and pull like hell. An impact will only do maybe 150 ft/lbs at least that's the best mine will do. I don't think it's possible to break this bolt if tightened by hand. Just pull or push like hell or drill and pin it to the crank. Good luck.

 

[ViperTony]

Per Tator, I used a 4 foot long cheater bar. Had the honey hold the brakes, parking brake on and in first gear. Worked like a charm. I also pinned pinned the crank.

 

[plumcrazy]

tony, thats the same way i had to do it.

 

[kcobean]

I used a 300 ft-lb torque wrench. Put wifey in driver seat and have her stand on brakes while in first gear. Cheater bar wasn't needed, but I'm a pretty big guy so it wasn't that hard to put 300 lbs on a 3 foot long wrench.

Pin it while you're at it...it really ***** when they come off while driving. Ask me how I know.

 

[Boxer12]

If your car is on a lift, you can remove the cover over the flywheel and have someone wedge a bar in the teeth. If you don't want to pin it, just paint a stripe on the bolt and damper to make it easy to see if it is loosening. Check whenever you change oil.

 

[ViperTony]

tony, thats the same way i had to do it.

It was pretty easy and very convienient since I couldn't find the proper torque wrench. The extra length of the pipe gave me more than enough room to maneuver and I had the hood off. I did end up painting a yellow stripe across the bolt/balancer so I can check it from time to time.

 

[VIPER BAZ UK]

PIN IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Chop chop mark you done that yet LOL........

 

[scottmcc]

Recently had to do the same thing and had to call Tator to get me a new Harmonic Balancer. While I was on the phone with him ordering the part, he took time to talk to the Viper Tech and tell him how to put it on and tighten the crank bolt. It was exactly as mentioned before with car in gear, someone on the brake and a breaker bar. Chuck is good people. Not many people take the time out of thier day to give advice to perfect strangers or OVERNIGHT them $300 parts without getting paid first. It must be a Viper owner thing.
I did not Pin mine but I did use some LOCTITE.

 

[plumcrazy]

Not much of a"viper tech"

 

[dave6666]

My car was in the air when I checked the torque on mine. I kept the driveline from moving with my hub tool. The best fitting socket is a 31mm 6-point not 1-1/4". Should you know that there on that other continent? Also, a 5" wobble extension helps clear the steering rack.

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[Fatboy 18]

I like the rear wheel hub tool Dave

The shops should be open tomorrow, so I will see if I can Hire a torque wrench from somewhere.

Any pics of this pining procedure some of you are talking about?

It does not mention anything about using Loctite in the manual, should I use some or could this be a problem at a later date?

 

[kcobean]

I like the rear wheel hub tool Dave

The shops should be open tomorrow, so I will see if I can Hire a torque wrench from somewhere.

Any pics of this pining procedure some of you are talking about?

It does not mention anything about using Loctite in the manual, should I use some or could this be a problem at a later date?

Get the pin kit from Roe Racing. Comes with the drilling guide, hardened bit, two hardened roll pins and instructions. I had access to a right angle drill (thanks Mr. Hemi Head), so it was a piece of cake and good insurance.

I used loctite the first time mine fell off and it wasn't enough, so I pinned it the second time and never had to think about it again.

 

[MADMAX]

Mark,
As you've go the front of your engine in bits, fitting a pin kit would be much easier to do - not fitting it would be a missed opportunity.
Sean uses UPS "expedited" for customers that need a faster delivery.
Cheers,
Ade.

 

[Nadine UK GTS]

I've only ever pin / key SC or heads / cam power cars, personally I don't think its need on a stockish engine. I'd be more concerned about the OE damper which can deteriorate. As to torque wrench I have a high torque one, but its too bulky to get in there. I use a breaker bar (no extensions) and then slip a bar over it and pull on it at a length according to my weight, ie "ft lbs" as that is simply all it is, a given weight at a given length measure. After the holiday season food noshing, maybe a few less inches away from the bolt LOL. As to the holding of the engine, I always put a pry bar in between 2 teeth of the flywheel and jam (with a bit of wood to protect) against the frame rail, don't want to stress the drive line, I do enough of that with my driving style.

 

[plumcrazy]

good point on the stock damper. its not a great piece. replace with an ATI in my opinion

 

[LifeIsGood]

It does not mention anything about using Loctite in the manual, should I use some or could this be a problem at a later date?

Here are a couple of recommendations about using Loctite...

Tech Tips - February 2010

February 2010, Damper (hub) bolt coming loose. Tighten or maybe loose your motor, its your choice?

This is a problem that can occur on Gen1, Gen2 and Gen3 Vipers. I have not heard it happening yet on a Gen4. The damper bolt can come loose and spin off during normal driving operations. The damper bolt should always be tightened to 250lb/ft torque. It is suggested that you at least pull the damper bolt and use red locklite to tighten. For extra safety, it is suggested to pin the harmonic balancer hub to the crankshaft, in the chassis. Roe Racing sells a tool kit that can help you perform the pinning. Either way, you will hopefully eliminate the possibility of the damper bolt spinning out and possibly ruining your crankshaft. It has happen and will continue to happen.

Crankshaft Damper Bolt?...Viper Wizard

Be sure to use red LocTite on the bolt and torque to 250 ft lbs!

 

[Fatboy 18]

Thanks for the info

 

[Fatboy 18]

That's that bit done

Had a mobile mechanic pop over this evening with a nice shiny new 'Snap On' Torque wrench. I sat in the car with foot on brake and Car in reverse gear. He torqued up the bolt As per Mr Tators comments we also used loctite, all done in a few seconds

(The car did not move at all)

 

[TAXIMAN1]

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[/quote]


Sorry to hijack here. But it sounds like the question at hand, has been addressed.


So..... I guess all those horror stories I've heard about Mobil 1 filters are.......?? I can't imagine Dave putting anything on his car, without cutting into one, or doing some detailed research.

The reason I ask is, I have a dozen of these M1-204's sitting in my garage from an Advance Auto special a while back, that would work on my BWGTS. And was actually thinking about tossing them, to use the newer Mopar filter each time.. Now I see one on Daves car, and might just use them up.

 

[Fatboy 18]

I would use them

 

[dave6666]

I too have a collection on M1 filters from the Auto Zone 5 qt + filter $29.99 specials. Obviously a good deal and you end up with extra filters too.

I love the people that decide that because the SRT filter was specifically designed for the SRT engine that automatically any other product is inferior, useless, and should be crushed and burned to prevent damage to other unsuspecting Viper owners engines. Products like the M1 filter.



Do I need to post a picture to prove I use them?



For the record though, the stand alone price for the M1-204 is $12, the SRT filter is $8. I will use the SRT filter when there are no specials or when I run out of the excess filters from the M1 oil specials.

Can someone substantiate any failures of an M1 filter? No hearsay, I need pics and machine shop receipts.

 

[kcobean]

I too have a collection on M1 filters from the Auto Zone 5 qt + filter $29.99 specials. Obviously a good deal and you end up with extra filters too.

I love the people that decide that because the SRT filter was specifically designed for the SRT engine that automatically any other product is inferior, useless, and should be crushed and burned to prevent damage to other unsuspecting Viper owners engines. Products like the M1 filter.



Do I need to post a picture to prove I use them?



For the record though, the stand alone price for the M1-204 is $12, the SRT filter is $8. I will use the SRT filter when there are no specials or when I run out of the excess filters from the M1 oil specials.

Can someone substantiate any failures of an M1 filter? No hearsay, I need pics and machine shop receipts.

I assume you mean "GEN-3 SRT guys" yes? We are told specifically by dealers NOT to use the M1 filters on the Gen4 engines because the oil pressures are higher, which means that on cold starts you can cause the filter bypass to open and pump unfiltered oil into the engine until it thins enough for the bypass to close. When I start my car in the mornings, I'll have pressures of around 90 PSI *at idle* until the engine warms up.

Does that mean my engine is going to implode if I use an M1 filter? No, but it does mean I'm taking miles off the life of my engine if I use a filter that doesn't flow adequately for my engine. Using the MOPAR filter for the Gen4 is cheap insurance.

 

[dave6666]

I assume you mean "GEN-3 SRT guys" yes? We are told specifically by dealers NOT to use the M1 filters on the Gen4 engines because the oil pressures are higher, which means that on cold starts you can cause the filter bypass to open and pump unfiltered oil into the engine until it thins enough for the bypass to close. When I start my car in the mornings, I'll have pressures of around 90 PSI *at idle* until the engine warms up.

Does that mean my engine is going to implode if I use an M1 filter? No, but it does mean I'm taking miles off the life of my engine if I use a filter that doesn't flow adequately for my engine. Using the MOPAR filter for the Gen4 is cheap insurance.

I'm not prejudice. I mean everyone.

To start with, I believe what you've been told by the dealers to be factual. So much so that you were told it, not the actual technical aspect of the statements. Secondly, there is a lot of published info out there on oil filters by people that one day decided to cut a bunch of filters open and reverse engineer them. Do I believe everything I read on the Internet? No, but when someone builds a web page about their apparent fascination with a seemingly mystical car part and they publish their findings with data...? I will have a level of belief that extends past "What I was told..."

The following link is one of those engineers that decided to cut up filters and so on. You scroll down about halfway and he discusses the bypass valve.

Motorcycle Oil Filters & Air Filters

I am in engineering in chemical manufacturing and no product comes without a pressure rating or so on. And I would expect the same when someone claims that one oil filter has a different spec than another that you could produce that spec to me.

So, please offer the published specification of the cracking pressure, full open pressure, and reset pressure for both the M1 filter and the SRT filter. If the dealers are telling the car owners to avoid a product due to their testing then they would have the specs I just listed and should give them to the public. I otherwise call bullship on the science behind what they tell you.

 

[dave6666]

In related news, O'Reilly's has Mobil 1 qts for $4.99 right now. That's 2 bucks off a qt.