If you own a Gen 4 ACR, especially one of the 09-10 and maybe even later 08s, this post is for you.
And IF some overworked volunteer moderator can please move this to the ENGINEERING CHAT that would be excellent too, thanks.
I dont mean to shout 'fire' but I think we need to be much more careful with our rear hatch / struts. LIFT AND CLOSE HATCH S-L-O-W-L-Y.
I know of 5 ACRs that have had their decklid Struts BLOW a hole in the rear C-pillar where that strut anchors. Mine is one of the 5. It aint pretty. One of the other cars is an ACR-X. ANYONE ELSE?? We have to take off the bodywork/roof to expose that riveted anchor, repair it (with stronger rivets too?) and repaint that inner area of the repair. Then, let it cure, and reattach the strut.
In the meantime, the entire hatch is shifted off-center held by only ONE strut...which it has been suggested that I remove due to the uneven pressure of having just one strut. And this can "twist" the rear glass..not good. So I have a hickory prop rod. Embarassing.
All because some of us are perhaps yanking the hatch open more quickly than the strut works...or closing the hatch more quickly than it works. Im ALWAYS in a rush at the track, and I have been forcing faster ups and downs. It has also been said that after 2008, or late 08, STRONGER STRUTS were used on Wing-equipped cars. Due to the weight of the aero, and 'falling-closing decks" if deck was open during in any breeze at all, it would fall shut. Engineers?
I have been told that the "weaker" 2008 struts may not casue this problem, and maybe I should even replace mine to the weaker 06-08 struts. Engineers?
I have also been told that the fast UP-cycle is probably the one pulling and weakening the anchor...and the down cycle may not be the worst strain. Engineers?
In any case, my only hint or symptom was a "pop" sound as I closed the hatch last week. Startled, I cycled the hatch again, but slowly....a slightly LOUDER pop on the down cycle. I drove home 40 miles, and went to unload. When I raised the hatch quickly (I had forgotten the issue) It went POW on the UP cycle...and the LEFT strut was now hanging flacid and lifeless, broken body anchor piece attached.....but in great danger of damaging other painted areas and parts. I lowered the hatch onto a towel, got a small screwdriver, and rasied and propped it up again (no pop!) and removed the strut.
So, I only had 3 'warning signs' before it blew a hole in the painted anchored bodywork.
I am now 'interviewing' possible dealers to do my warantee repair...... my 50+ year Dodge dealer was closed by cerberpus.
My Advice: EXAMINE THE SEAMS BETWEEN DECK AND QUARTER. EVEN? EXAMINE THE GLASS-TO-ROOF SEAMS. EVEN?
And for the rest of your life, be patient as you raise and lower your HEAVY AERO-EQUIPPED ACR Decklids...
PS I know a LOT of us have also broken our outside hatch-release mechanism as well....eggshell fragile!
JonB~~~~:<~
And IF some overworked volunteer moderator can please move this to the ENGINEERING CHAT that would be excellent too, thanks.
I dont mean to shout 'fire' but I think we need to be much more careful with our rear hatch / struts. LIFT AND CLOSE HATCH S-L-O-W-L-Y.
I know of 5 ACRs that have had their decklid Struts BLOW a hole in the rear C-pillar where that strut anchors. Mine is one of the 5. It aint pretty. One of the other cars is an ACR-X. ANYONE ELSE?? We have to take off the bodywork/roof to expose that riveted anchor, repair it (with stronger rivets too?) and repaint that inner area of the repair. Then, let it cure, and reattach the strut.
In the meantime, the entire hatch is shifted off-center held by only ONE strut...which it has been suggested that I remove due to the uneven pressure of having just one strut. And this can "twist" the rear glass..not good. So I have a hickory prop rod. Embarassing.
All because some of us are perhaps yanking the hatch open more quickly than the strut works...or closing the hatch more quickly than it works. Im ALWAYS in a rush at the track, and I have been forcing faster ups and downs. It has also been said that after 2008, or late 08, STRONGER STRUTS were used on Wing-equipped cars. Due to the weight of the aero, and 'falling-closing decks" if deck was open during in any breeze at all, it would fall shut. Engineers?
I have been told that the "weaker" 2008 struts may not casue this problem, and maybe I should even replace mine to the weaker 06-08 struts. Engineers?
I have also been told that the fast UP-cycle is probably the one pulling and weakening the anchor...and the down cycle may not be the worst strain. Engineers?
In any case, my only hint or symptom was a "pop" sound as I closed the hatch last week. Startled, I cycled the hatch again, but slowly....a slightly LOUDER pop on the down cycle. I drove home 40 miles, and went to unload. When I raised the hatch quickly (I had forgotten the issue) It went POW on the UP cycle...and the LEFT strut was now hanging flacid and lifeless, broken body anchor piece attached.....but in great danger of damaging other painted areas and parts. I lowered the hatch onto a towel, got a small screwdriver, and rasied and propped it up again (no pop!) and removed the strut.
So, I only had 3 'warning signs' before it blew a hole in the painted anchored bodywork.
I am now 'interviewing' possible dealers to do my warantee repair...... my 50+ year Dodge dealer was closed by cerberpus.
My Advice: EXAMINE THE SEAMS BETWEEN DECK AND QUARTER. EVEN? EXAMINE THE GLASS-TO-ROOF SEAMS. EVEN?
And for the rest of your life, be patient as you raise and lower your HEAVY AERO-EQUIPPED ACR Decklids...
PS I know a LOT of us have also broken our outside hatch-release mechanism as well....eggshell fragile!
JonB~~~~:<~
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