Gentleman do the throttle bodies look in phase to you?

Steve-Indy

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I certainly cannot say from your photo. You need the left side to: either lead the right side slightly (easy to do)... tobe PERFECTLY synchronized (harder) with the right side...AND, both need to rotate to full open when the gas pedal is fully depressed. There can be some problems with this last part if your cables are stretched due to a pedal stop issue. Do a search on re-sync of throttle bodies as there were tons of posts on this in years past. Feel free to call me for a longer discussion if you wish.
 

jdeft1

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Push the button on both adjusters. Tug the black plastic cables back toward the windshield all the way. Get in the car and press the throttle to the floor hard..all the way down. Hear: click, click, click as the adjusters ratchet.

You're done.


-Cheers
 

Steve-Indy

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jdeft1 has described the "re-sync" procedure perfectly!! I assumed that you were already aware of same. There can be two other issues, however. First, if someone has applied the TSB for this problem, you will find a screw right through the adjustment buttonon each side ...hopefully done when the throttles were perfect (by observation and performance criteria). Sadly, some of these "TSB'd" Vipers were "fixed" with the two screws at a time when things were not perfect...giving a little less performance and a lot more bucking (aka "bull-hunching") at partial throttle in first gear. I have NOT embraced the "fix"...preferring, instead, to re-syne our two Gen I Vipers the few times deemed necessary. The second issue was mentioned in my post above...the stretching of the single throttle cable connected to the accelerator pedal. In the case of our 95 Viper, this cable was so stretched that both cables connected to the belcranks on the two throttle bodies were so limp that they only opened the actual throttle blades about 75-80 % with the accelerator pushed to the floor (I later determined that the angle of force from my foot to the pedal was slightly offset, causing the pedal to miss a stop thus stretching the single cable). Once I corrected this with a spacer on the terminal portion of the twin cables (PAST the belcrank), the system's slack disappeared and we achieved full throttle (as doccumented by two micro switches that I temporarily installed that could read the fully open position by illuminating a red light for left and a green light for right). Since my "device" had 10 feet of wire, I could crawl under the dash, fool with the pedal, and KNOW if I was reaching full throttle (my Wife DID tire of coming to the garage multiple times a day to be my eyes) !!

Yes, I know that some would have just replaced the stretched cable !!! :)

I should also mention that this was more than 10 years ago, so I hope that I have not left out any details. "THANK YOU" to Sean Roe for all of the insights needed to "fix" this issue.
 

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