Got a 2004 with a problem

Chiefc

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Title is a little misleading. My son who is in Afghanistan got a Viper and sent it to me to take care of till he gets back. The Car only has 5,200 miles and looks brand new.
My problem is that I went to register it and had to get an emissions test done. The car had a check engine light on it. It failed for a gas cap being bad. Got a new gas cap and disconnected the battery for 20 minutes to reset the computer. Went in for another emission test and failed because computer wasn't working yet. Read the owners manual and found that the if you turn the check key on (but don't start) after 15 seconds the check engine light will flash if the computer hasn't reset. Well I drove it on the highway yesterday for 100 miles. Drove around town for 30 miles and it still hadn't reset. Today after reading the forum I drove down the highway 25 mile and back 25 miles keeping the speed between 50 and 60. The computer still isn't reset. I am going to wait a few hours for it to cool off then check it again.

After reading a lot today on the subject it appears that I will need to perform the correct Driving cycles to get it to reset. Does anyone know what the Driving Cycles for a Viper is??
I have 3 days to get the car tagged before the temp tag from another state expires.
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agdetail

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get a sct to check for the codes. it will tell you what is exactly wrong and you can also reset the pcm.

gd luck
 

Camfab

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Call Dan Craigin at DC Performance, he'll have the answer for you.
 

DeceptioN

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Should be able to bring it to any autozone and have them clear the codes off for you. Or buy your son an SCT tuner as a surprise, and clear them yourself. I got mine brand new on flea bay for $200.
 
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Chiefc

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Should be able to bring it to any autozone and have them clear the codes off for you. Or buy your son an SCT tuner as a surprise, and clear them yourself. I got mine brand new on flea bay for $200.

The codes are clear, its just getting the computer to recognize everything and say it is good that is the problem.
 

bluesrt

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start the car cold with all functions off, dont move car -let run for 15 minutes, shut off car and let sit for 10 minutes- this will set 1 cycle- next drive the car on hiway without stopping for 1 hour- you should be good after this- do not drive above 60 mph or under 55 mph
 
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Chiefc

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start the car cold with all functions off, dont move car -let run for 15 minutes, shut off car and let sit for 10 minutes- this will set 1 cycle- next drive the car on hiway without stopping for 1 hour- you should be good after this- do not drive above 60 mph or under 55 mph

Car is running in garage now. put 200 mile on it yesterday. Will get on the highway today and drive for an hour for an hour between 55 and 60 without stopping. I did 25 miles down, stopped and turned around and did it again. maybe my stopping messed it up.. I have tried everything else.
 

Garron

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Hey

All vehicles have a list of "monitors" that all modern vehicles run as they are driving. Here is a general example of what the vehicle is checking when driving.

OBD2 MONITORS

Misfire (continuous)
Fuel Trim (continuous)
Comprehensive Components (continuous)
Catalyst (CAT)
Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR)
Evaporative (EVAP)
Oxygen (O2) Sensor
Secondary Air
Heated Catalyst
O2 Sensor Heater

When you leave the key forward (engine not running and the engine light is flashing (after 15 seconds) it means the car has checked everything and it has passed. (does not mean the computer was "reset") There is a certain order for the monitors to run, example an oxygen sensor is checked before a catalyst because that sensor is used to check the catalyst.

Monitors are checked at different loads and speeds, this information is vehicle specific. "Generally" most are checked at light loads at speeds above 25mph.

If I had to guess the "evap monitor" is the one giving you problems, it needs an ambient temperature above a centain amount (I think most Chrysler vehicles are set around 40F) Also it will not run the test if you have below 15% fuel or above 85% fuel in the tank.

If the battey does not go dead or the codes have not been cleared the informtion of the last pass would have been saved and this would not have been a problem.

Honestly I would wait for summer, I can run all the monitors in 15 mintues on a Chrysler/Dodge with a normal highway drive.

Garrett
 
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Chiefc

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Well I guess the computer is working. After the 15 minute idle the check engine light came on. cuss
 
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Chiefc

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Do you know the code? Is it a leak or switch fault?

gas cap, again. Paid to have a smoke test done (pressurization leaK) Turns out the gas cap I bought from autozone is bad. Will get one from the dealer tomorrow.

feelin pretty dumb and wore out
 

chambers

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gas cap, again. Paid to have a smoke test done (pressurization leaK) Turns out the gas cap I bought from autozone is bad. Will get one from the dealer tomorrow.

feelin pretty dumb and wore out

Same thing happened to me over the summer. I replaced for factory cap with a lock cap from Autozone. Everything was fine for three weeks until I noticed the engine check light came on. I put the oringinal cap back on and the engine check light went out
 

ViperGeorge

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Evap test is a pain in the butt. Follow Garron's post above. Had the same problem with my 06. Drove over 1000 miles and the test still did not run. As stated gas tank must be between 15 and 85% and ambient temp at least at a certain temp. Also has something to do with engine temps and other tests. Coolant must be below 140 degrees (I think) and then rise to above a certain temp (not sure but might be 160). Stupid test, thank you CARB. I lived in MA at the time and I later found out that the EVAP test was optional there. :(
 
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Chiefc

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I have the new cap installed. I have driven it three times. All codes are clear and ready except the evap. I am hoping it is just a issue of number of heat cycles. I will drive it to work until it passes this week or until I get a ticked for expired tag. I am in Arizona and the temp in the morning is around 40 and the afternoon temp in in the 60s.
 

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