Changing the Door Hinge

Jack B

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I just changed the door hinge detent spring on my 97. Prior to changing it I did a search on the Forums to see what problems could be encountered. There were probably a dozen threads that had relevant info. The problem is, the info was all over the place and some of it was sort of misleading.

Hopefully this might help someone in the future:

1. To replace the spring steel detent you must remove the hinge from the car. Keep in mind once you remove two bolts on the door side of the hinge from inside the car the remainder of work is done with the door closed.

2. To remove the hinge start by removing the two center bolts that fasten the door to the hinge. These are accessed inside the car when the door is full open. A ratchet type box wrench makes it easy.

3. Close the door and make sure it is latched. Mark the hinge location on the body. I used masking tape. Remove the four bolts that hold the hinge to the body. Use a ratchet and short extension on the two center bolts, use a ratcheting box wrench on the top and bottom bolts. The body side of the hinge is now loose.

4. From outside the car remove the top and bottom bolts on the door side of the hinge. This requires a torx wrench on a 3/8" ratchet with a short extension. Once you remove the bolts do a visual on where the last two bolts lined up on the hinge/door. You will be able to see the imprint of the serrated washer that is part of the bolt. The door will stay in place and latched when you remove these two last bolts, but, it will shift a little, doing the visual will allow you to line it up when you reinstall the hinge.

5. Once you remove the hinge you can replace it with a new hinge or merely replace the sheet metal spring by drilling out the rivet. One source for the spring is Parts Rack.

6. You just have to reverse the procedure for the reinstall. I found it easiest to mount the the hinge on the body first, then, go to the door side. The front part of the door will fall about 3/16" when you originally removed the hinge, you should have a second person lift the front of the door (it is still closed) and align the bolts to the original position (door side), now you can tighten the bolts on the door side.

There may be other ways to change the hinge, but, this is quick and neat.
 

DrumrBoy

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Thanks for posting, it will definitely come in handy. It seems like one of those things that can be 20 minutes if properly prepared and lucky....but 2 hours if everything fights you.
 

ViperTony

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Jack, thanks for posting this. And I also want to thank you for your many other technical contributions on the forums over the years. Many of your how to posts have come in very handy!
 

Mopar Steve

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How is it these cars are going through hinges? The door weighs almost nothing and our cars see little use and few miles. I have had old MOPARS with heavy steel hinges 40 plus years old with a hundred thousand miles and the hinges are still good.
 

Grisoman

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How is it these cars are going through hinges? The door weighs almost nothing and our cars see little use and few miles. I have had old MOPARS with heavy steel hinges 40 plus years old with a hundred thousand miles and the hinges are still good.
It's not the hinge, but the sheet spring attached to the hinge that holds the door open.
 

Camfab

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I know the detent spring wears and is a thin piece, but there are also posts/threads of doors sagging.

The problem is the design of the door. Your old Mopar had Two hinges per side, not one. I think the fact that the hinges are made of aluminum doesn't help the cause either, with respect to wear. Aluminum saves weight which makes it the right call. The spring design makes lubrication critical, and it's own design is inherent to not holding lubrication.
 

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